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Corvettes and all things about them

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#41 of 1908 by ruking1 Apr 17, 2002 (1:44 pm)
#39   While I do not have a clue how you drive, I might add that 30k is way short in terms of flywheel and clutch life. The good news and the bad news is that the components are not built with much excess in capacity. A case in point is the Z06 which can be slightly underrated in the flywheel horsepower 385 hp. The clutch is really rated for not much more than 345 RW hp. This fact was driven home on the 2002 model when the flywheel hp was raised to 405 hp BUT they had to use a different clutch and clutch plate for it could not statistically handle the plus 15 hp difference reliably. How the Corvette staff explain this in market eaze is: they do not design the car to get ahead of itself"
#42 of 1908 new engine! by speculative Apr 17, 2002 (1:44 pm)
Thats cool that they replaced the engine at least! Now its like having a new car again....well almost....just replace the breaks.
#43 of 1908 by jrosasmc Apr 17, 2002 (3:53 pm)
Do even the new '02 Corvettes still have the 1-to-4 "skip-shift" feature on 6-speeds?
#44 of 1908 Afraid so on the skip shift by starrow68 Apr 17, 2002 (8:41 pm)
It is alive and well in the 2002. Although, after hearing many complaints I have messed with 1st to 3rd and doing the 1st to 4th on occasion. Surprise, it makes a huge difference in the mpg, which is why it's there in the first place. Normal local driving I can get down to 16.5 mpg with all gears. On freeway average can get up to mid 20's easy. After a short local trip started at 18.0 mpg trip computer I did all city streets and did the skip shift, came back and comp mpg was at 18.4. Normally it would drop that much on a similar trip using all gears. Just a test, not a plan, mpg is not the reason to own this beast, and still planning to try a drag strip, as I improve my shifting up on ramps, as has been pointed out before, 0-60 is legal.
#46 of 1908 Engine "blow-up" No. 3 by aotearoa Apr 18, 2002 (3:51 am)
Thx again for the responses. I'm still learning from this engine experience.    What could happen if the wrong grade of oil was put in the car? A service was carried out about 2 wks prior to the blow-up. At that time when I picked up the car, twice very quickly after, I got a "low oil pressure" when turning a sharp corner. Checking the oil dip stick level showed all appeared OK. After those incidents all appeared normal. After the engine replacement I checked the new oil - it appeared to be a yellowish "pee" color - but the previous batch had been the usual brownish. Could the wrong grade of oil have caused engine failure?   Next - The clutch and fly-wheel replacement.   I understand that the fly-wheel comes with the new engine and is 'balanced' in the factory. The only way that F-W could get warped and the clutch burned out is if the "mating" job of engine and transmission was not done properly? The car was driven perhaps up to 50 miles in that incorrect state. On a short test myself - it was very evident that there was a serious clutch release, still apparently engaged (something!) problem. When driving it was almost impossible to change into some gears! Is this why the F-W is warped and the clutch plate burned out? And how do they ensure the new Fly-Wheel will be properly balanced on the car?   Wish I knew more about these things - but I'm getting there - with a lot of help. Thx.
#47 of 1908 "Blow-up" by aotearoa Apr 18, 2002 (7:03 am)
#48 of 1908 "Blow-up" by aotearoa Apr 18, 2002 (7:07 am)
Seems now the problem is with the thrust bearing - it failed. So, ....Why...at the same time?.   But the other issue - the wrong oil (instead of the synthetic)?   Looking forward to your responses.
#49 of 1908 by ruking1 Apr 18, 2002 (7:12 am)
#43   There are a few ways to bypass the skip shift. 1. Shift early (before the stated RPM range where the skip shift works) {this is what I do} 2. Shift after (after the stated RPM range where the skip shift works) 3. Start off in second gear. (I don't do this) 4. Install the CAGS defeat circuitry. (Cost from .50 cents to $20. for parts.)   #45   Given the situation you describe, probably not, with a very very low probability. Also, you can bet a dollar to a donut , that before they decided to honor your warranty, they probably looked for ways to deny it. To make a long story short, VERY few engine problems are due to engine oil.   I would press them to redo or warranty the FW problem that you are having.
#50 of 1908 Not much help here... by starrow68 Apr 18, 2002 (7:14 am)
All I know is what they tell you in the book. The LS1 requires the synthetic oil, and when I went into the local Chevy dealer, not where I bought it, I confirmed that a. they had a C5 specialist and b. they had their system set to only put Mobil 1 into the C5. They then made sure I knew how important only refilling with the same brand was. I have also heard that keeping it full, as opposed to what I think most people do, let it get 1/2 qt. low and then refill, is important. I've found that getting a good reading with the newer, lighter oils is not that easy either. Good luck with the new engine.    On the clutch issue, no background to be able to comment. You might want to try some of the more Corvette specific boards.

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