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Toyota Corolla, Sedan
#921 of 3856 1996 Toyota Corolla will crank but not start!
Jun 17, 2001 (2:19 pm)
background: This vehicle first experienced problems about four (4) weeks ago. The engine would not crank. Panel lamps came on, but no click from the starter assembly. The vehicle was towed to my residence. Upon cranking the engine immediately after rolling the vehicle off the tow truck, the engine started. The starter was suspect and was replaced. Initially, the vehicle would not crank. It was determined that the ignition wire "AM1" had no voltage (12v) and thus the ACC (accessories) position on the ignition switch was dead. This also explained the loss of all accessory operations (ie radio, fan, rear window defroster, etc.). Having bypassed the main wiring harness with a wire from the +12v side of the battery to the AM1 contact on the ignition switch, the vehicle started immediately. A good solid yank on the wiring harness (by accident) caused a connection to be made and the car started normally. The vehicle operated normally for the next week.
The vehicle experienced a no ignition failure while approaching a stop sign about a week later. The vehicle was immediately re-started by putting the car into neutral and turning the ignition key before it could roll to a stop. A weekly later, the car did the same thing. Waiting at a stop light, the ignition failed. The car was re-started by turning the ignition key within two minutes (note it took longer to start the car here than during the last episode) and continued on without further incidence.
Saturday, the vehicle traveled approximately 120 miles. The vehicle was parked in the garage at my residence. A number of hours later the car would not start. The engine cranked, but there appeared to be no spark signal. I verified the following:
1. There was no spark getting to the spark plugs
2. The resistance of the plug wires is low. Spec is 10k ohms - 25k ohms; measured below 10k ohms average.
3.The ignition coil resistance of the primary winding was tested (cold). Spec is 0.36 ohms - 0.55 ohms; measured 0.5 ohms;
4. The ignition coil resistance of the secondary winding was tested (cold). Spec is 9.0k ohms; - 15.7k ohms; measured 11k ohms;
5. The pickup coil resistance G+ to G- terminals was tested (cold). Spec is 185ohms; - 275ohms; Measured 250ohms;
6.The pickup coil resistance NE+ to NE- Spec is 1,630 ohms - 2,740 ohms; I do not understand where are how to measure this value. This vehicle does not appear to have such a value. The NE+ to NE- measurement appears to simply be the primary side of the ignition coil. So again, I did not measure this item.
7. I verified that I had +12v on pins 1 and 3 of the connector going to the ignitor. I have no further documentation on how to test the ignitor itself.
After having done all of these measurements, re assembling the ignition system the vehicle cranked, but did not start. A couple of good yanks on the wiring harness and the car started.
NOTE: The rotor was recently replaced. The rotor cap was not and does show signs of some corrosion and wear.
The car was driven to a short distance and left running Sunday morning. Ten minutes latter it was in my garage. The car sat for approximately three (3) hours in the garage. While driving later that afternoon (about 10 minutes) the car lost its ignition signal. I was unable to start the vehicle with the usual set of tricks, and it was necessary to have the vehicle towed. At this point I am suspecting the ignitor module (external), but this does not explain why/how a good yank on the wiring harness would usually correct the situation.
One last piece to the puzzle. I installed a drain and fill kit about 2 years ago. If you locate the drain and fill kit connection in the heater core hose, you will notice that the wiring harness crosses directly underneath. Furthermore, this spot in the harness has a rubber shield on the underside of the harness presumable to prevent water from splashing up from the underside. When a previous starter was installed, it was discovered that the drain and fill kit had been leaking directly over this rubber shield. This shield was now acting as a diaper and the harness was sitting in a pool of antifreeze. An air hose was stuck in and air was forced in for about fifteen (15) minutes in an attempt to dry out the harness. It was not determined if the antifreeze had penetrated the harness itself, but I mention it here as a possibility. We may have a corrosion situation of some of the wires at this point in the harness.
Anyone have any ideas? How do you test the external ignitor? That part is $360+ !!!
#922 of 3856 Synthetic Oil for 97 CE
Jun 22, 2001 (3:24 pm)
Hi, I'm looking for a recommendation for Synthetic Oil for a 97 CE with 50K miles. Thanks, Andy
#923 of 3856 Corolla 1995 some problems
Jun 24, 2001 (10:36 am)
I have a 95 dx, it has 110k miles on it and here are the things I had problems with.
1. 2 years into car Replaced battery
2. 4 years into car replaced battery second time when repair shop told me it was the problem, when my car wouldnt start. Wasnt the problem
Due to misdiagnotic I replaced the starter, when it didnt need to be replaced.
Replaced the alternator problem fixed the problem.
4. 4 years into the car the thermostat went out and car overheated
5. 6 years into the car Radiater was plugged up with rust had to replace it, was told heads didnt warp, and engine was ok.
6. After I had radiator replaced the car now makes a lot of knocking noise when I accelerate, can anyone tell me what this might be.
7. hehe minor problem with right rear light keep burning out I think I finally fixed it.
I put this car through hell on a daily basis so these problems are acceptable.
One reoccuring problem I have been having is the brake pads have worn down a lot and squecked every 1 1/2 years I replace the pads. So far I have replaced the pads 3 times since 1995. The rotor is still ok. I figure theres a problem with the calipers but I dont mind putting lifetime pads on it every 1 1/2 years.
I would like to know if this stuff looks like what you guys might be getting. Also if you guys have any idea why the car would make all kinda tin car sounds when I accelerate. I dont think its the gas, I'm thinking its the ignition or the pressure.
I checked the plugs they look fine, the wires look pretty run down but doubt thats the problem.
#924 of 3856 #174 reneehogue problem starting corolla
Jun 24, 2001 (11:11 am)
Sounds like your problem starting is the alternator, even after a shop checked mine they didnt see it was the alternator they told me to buy a battery bought battery and within week had same problem starting I then put in a starter problem was still there. I then replaced the alternator that cured the starting problem. Seems that the problem with the alternator was not always there would come and go, so the tests didnt work on it. Very hard problem to check for.
95 corolla 110k on it orginal owner and still going.
#925 of 3856 #268 chenyang Problem with noise and power as you push peddle
Jun 24, 2001 (11:12 am)
Sounds like your Distributor cap might be cracked very common problem with cars. Water could have gottten into it.
The signs are usually the car will run but as you push the gas it backfires and slows down sometime even stalls.
#926 of 3856 Clanking engine sound like tin cans, slight loss in power
Jun 24, 2001 (11:18 am)
Now to my problem.
I put my car through hell it has 110k on a 1995 dx, so a few problems are acceptable.After replacing the radiator. My car lost power, and now when I excellerate it clanks at first, more then usual.
I'm hoping I didnt damage the engine driving it with a non working radiator for 2 days, I kinda doubt I did.
I figure its the fuel system, ignition, or valves.
Have never replaced the spark plug wires they do look beat up a lot one almost fell apart on me. I checked the plugs they look great no residue and gap looks ok.
I just hope its not an engine problem. Anyone have any ideas.
Jun 26, 2001 (6:44 am)
Spark plug wires should be replaced at around 60K or less, so you are way overdue. As for the engine problems, it could be anything, but if the engine was overheated by the bad radiator, you could indeed have damage. Modern engines do not like to overheat at all, there is not much slack when they do.
#928 of 3856 Corolla air condition
Jun 27, 2001 (9:48 am)
I have a 98 corolla. This summer, it seems to have problem with the air conditioning. It works fine at night or without the sun. However, every time when the sun is shinning, it's not cold. Even I turned to the highest speed, it just keep blowing cool but not cold air. What do you think will be the problem? Does 98 corolla use freon for air conditioning? Do I have to add it? Thanks.
Jun 27, 2001 (12:00 pm)
I am having the same problem right now with my "86" Tercel. The a.c. fine in the evening and in slightly cooler temps. but not in the sun.
#930 of 3856 clanking noise resolved
Jun 28, 2001 (5:02 am)
Well I found out what my clanking noise was my waterpump lost a bearing and leaked. Had that replaced and my 2nd timing belt installed at same time since it only cost me 75 bucksand it had 55k on it already figured it was worth it.. Now the cars running nice and quiet. Quietest I heard it run in years. I could have sworn it was a valve problem. but getting the pump replaced fixed it good. 110k and still on the road.