Last post on Nov 29, 2013 at 3:42 PM
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Toyota Corolla, Sedan
#914 of 3856 Corolla engine humming at 70mph
May 31, 2001 (1:52 pm)
I have a 1997 Corolla CE with about 57000 miles on it. Since last 3-4 months, when i drive at 70mph or more (if you drive at less than 75mph on a 65mph zone on interstate, people really push you)i hear a very loud and constant humming noise. I showed it twice to my toyota dealer. During a test drive, the mechanic acknowledged that the noise was unusually more, so he shifted the auto shifter to Neutral and when i pressed the accelerator, the sound was still there.
Then, at the dealership, he lifted the car up on the hydraulic lifter, and ran the engine at 70mph. The sound was there. This means that the tyres and wheel alignment is out of question.
The chief technician also could not find any problem in the car. The only reason he could give was that its a 3-gear car and at 70mph the engine would revv. at a very high rpm. I don't necessarily believe that cause i can feel all the four gears change when i drive.
#915 of 3856 95 Corolla Electrical Problem
Jun 05, 2001 (12:02 pm)
Since the first time I wrote my car has been back to my mechanic two times, in fact it is there now. Last time he replaced the battery (and the alternator was replaced in March). So last week when I was driving, I used the turn signal, the radio went off and then the next time I tried to start, the battery was dead. My neighbor came to jump it and it started right up. Sometimes if I am driving at night the lights will start to dim and then go out, so needless to say I try NOT to drive at night (for a while). So anyone who can help me and #427, please; cause I know I am driving my mechanic crazy. He is really nice and has not charged me anything yet, until it is fixed for sure.
#916 of 3856 95 Corolla Electrical Problem
Jun 05, 2001 (12:24 pm)
I would suggest you take out that radio, and reconnect the original wires. Make sure the fuse is good while you do that. You can do it yourself also if you are comfortable. Your radio might be short circuiting itself causing other circuits to fail.
If that doesn't work, i suggest you write this to toyota. On toyota website, there's an owner's section. You can become a member by giving the VIN number of your car.
Jun 05, 2001 (1:30 pm)
I agree with anjancd, it is most likely an electrical short. Although it could be anywhere not just the radio. I had a short in my "86" Tercel recently. It took me awhile to find it. It was the wiring from my rear hatch to the rest of the car. The wire insulation was worn off totally where the wire moved when opening the hatch allowing the bare wire to touch the metal causing the short.
#918 of 3856 95 Corolla Electrical Problem
Jun 06, 2001 (4:40 am)
Thanks anjancd and terceltom1, I will take your advice to my mechanic and will let you know how things turn out. Appreciate your help.
#919 of 3856 seat-belt light under warranty
Jun 11, 2001 (8:50 am)
The seat-belt light/devise was fixed in my 98 Corolla under warranty while I was getting the driver's mirror replaced. The mirror would vibrate (fuzzy reflection) at highway speeds. I'm not even sure what was done to fix seat-belt light, but Ehrlich Toyota had me back on the road in less than a hour at no charge. Fantastic service even though I didn't buy the car from them.
#920 of 3856 "Seat belt light staying on" and "door handle trouble"
Jun 14, 2001 (4:35 pm)
I have a 1998 Corolla. After 48,000 miles my driver side (inside) door handle broke off completely, and the one on the passenger side is just about to go, too. In my opinion they are very poor quality plastic pieces. It is shocking that Toyota allowed them to be installed. I paid about $20.00 to get a new one. I am a women, and I could replace it myself. (True, I do not have electric locks.) I do not expect the new one to last too long either. Same type of cheap plastic... Also, the little door just below my clock broke off, too! Same cheap plastic! Now that I refuse to replace. Waste of money.
I just passed 53,000 miles. Now here is the newest joy: the seat belt light stays on blinking. Very annoying. I will not take it to the dealer, unless someone will advise me to the contrary. Yes, it is annoying, but the car is rolling just fine with the light blinking. I see from posting others had the same problem.
I wanted to post my message to make all the fellows with the same problem feel better.
#921 of 3856 1996 Toyota Corolla will crank but not start!
Jun 17, 2001 (2:19 pm)
background: This vehicle first experienced problems about four (4) weeks ago. The engine would not crank. Panel lamps came on, but no click from the starter assembly. The vehicle was towed to my residence. Upon cranking the engine immediately after rolling the vehicle off the tow truck, the engine started. The starter was suspect and was replaced. Initially, the vehicle would not crank. It was determined that the ignition wire "AM1" had no voltage (12v) and thus the ACC (accessories) position on the ignition switch was dead. This also explained the loss of all accessory operations (ie radio, fan, rear window defroster, etc.). Having bypassed the main wiring harness with a wire from the +12v side of the battery to the AM1 contact on the ignition switch, the vehicle started immediately. A good solid yank on the wiring harness (by accident) caused a connection to be made and the car started normally. The vehicle operated normally for the next week.
The vehicle experienced a no ignition failure while approaching a stop sign about a week later. The vehicle was immediately re-started by putting the car into neutral and turning the ignition key before it could roll to a stop. A weekly later, the car did the same thing. Waiting at a stop light, the ignition failed. The car was re-started by turning the ignition key within two minutes (note it took longer to start the car here than during the last episode) and continued on without further incidence.
Saturday, the vehicle traveled approximately 120 miles. The vehicle was parked in the garage at my residence. A number of hours later the car would not start. The engine cranked, but there appeared to be no spark signal. I verified the following:
1. There was no spark getting to the spark plugs
2. The resistance of the plug wires is low. Spec is 10k ohms - 25k ohms; measured below 10k ohms average.
3.The ignition coil resistance of the primary winding was tested (cold). Spec is 0.36 ohms - 0.55 ohms; measured 0.5 ohms;
4. The ignition coil resistance of the secondary winding was tested (cold). Spec is 9.0k ohms; - 15.7k ohms; measured 11k ohms;
5. The pickup coil resistance G+ to G- terminals was tested (cold). Spec is 185ohms; - 275ohms; Measured 250ohms;
6.The pickup coil resistance NE+ to NE- Spec is 1,630 ohms - 2,740 ohms; I do not understand where are how to measure this value. This vehicle does not appear to have such a value. The NE+ to NE- measurement appears to simply be the primary side of the ignition coil. So again, I did not measure this item.
7. I verified that I had +12v on pins 1 and 3 of the connector going to the ignitor. I have no further documentation on how to test the ignitor itself.
After having done all of these measurements, re assembling the ignition system the vehicle cranked, but did not start. A couple of good yanks on the wiring harness and the car started.
NOTE: The rotor was recently replaced. The rotor cap was not and does show signs of some corrosion and wear.
The car was driven to a short distance and left running Sunday morning. Ten minutes latter it was in my garage. The car sat for approximately three (3) hours in the garage. While driving later that afternoon (about 10 minutes) the car lost its ignition signal. I was unable to start the vehicle with the usual set of tricks, and it was necessary to have the vehicle towed. At this point I am suspecting the ignitor module (external), but this does not explain why/how a good yank on the wiring harness would usually correct the situation.
One last piece to the puzzle. I installed a drain and fill kit about 2 years ago. If you locate the drain and fill kit connection in the heater core hose, you will notice that the wiring harness crosses directly underneath. Furthermore, this spot in the harness has a rubber shield on the underside of the harness presumable to prevent water from splashing up from the underside. When a previous starter was installed, it was discovered that the drain and fill kit had been leaking directly over this rubber shield. This shield was now acting as a diaper and the harness was sitting in a pool of antifreeze. An air hose was stuck in and air was forced in for about fifteen (15) minutes in an attempt to dry out the harness. It was not determined if the antifreeze had penetrated the harness itself, but I mention it here as a possibility. We may have a corrosion situation of some of the wires at this point in the harness.
Anyone have any ideas? How do you test the external ignitor? That part is $360+ !!!
#922 of 3856 Synthetic Oil for 97 CE
Jun 22, 2001 (3:24 pm)
Hi, I'm looking for a recommendation for Synthetic Oil for a 97 CE with 50K miles. Thanks, Andy
#923 of 3856 Corolla 1995 some problems
Jun 24, 2001 (10:36 am)
I have a 95 dx, it has 110k miles on it and here are the things I had problems with.
1. 2 years into car Replaced battery
2. 4 years into car replaced battery second time when repair shop told me it was the problem, when my car wouldnt start. Wasnt the problem
Due to misdiagnotic I replaced the starter, when it didnt need to be replaced.
Replaced the alternator problem fixed the problem.
4. 4 years into the car the thermostat went out and car overheated
5. 6 years into the car Radiater was plugged up with rust had to replace it, was told heads didnt warp, and engine was ok.
6. After I had radiator replaced the car now makes a lot of knocking noise when I accelerate, can anyone tell me what this might be.
7. hehe minor problem with right rear light keep burning out I think I finally fixed it.
I put this car through hell on a daily basis so these problems are acceptable.
One reoccuring problem I have been having is the brake pads have worn down a lot and squecked every 1 1/2 years I replace the pads. So far I have replaced the pads 3 times since 1995. The rotor is still ok. I figure theres a problem with the calipers but I dont mind putting lifetime pads on it every 1 1/2 years.
I would like to know if this stuff looks like what you guys might be getting. Also if you guys have any idea why the car would make all kinda tin car sounds when I accelerate. I dont think its the gas, I'm thinking its the ignition or the pressure.
I checked the plugs they look fine, the wires look pretty run down but doubt thats the problem.