Last post on Oct 07, 2013 at 12:35 PM
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Toyota Corolla, Sedan
#420 of 574 98 Corolla Sedan Water Pump Question
Apr 30, 2008 (4:03 am)
I purchased a 1998 Corolla with 189,000 miles. I know this year has a 'timing chain' rather than a 'timing belt'. My concern and questions is: Should I pay my local Toyota Dealer $630.00 (parts and labor) to replace the Water Pump before it self destructs, or, should I just wait until it begins to leak or completely falls apart? I have no idea how long Water Pumps are supposed to last in this car and if I don't replace it now will it destroy the engine when it does go out. Please help me determine what to do!! Thanks ahead of time for taking the time to help me.
Mike from Seattle.
#421 of 574 Re: 98 Corolla Sedan Water Pump Question [mikie3]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
May 03, 2008 (9:46 am)
Water pumps generally don't self-destruct...they die a slow death. Warning signs would be, of course, a slight drip of coolant from the bottom of the pump, or a loud grinding noise, or signs of overheating, and before any of those symptoms, a looseness that you can feel in the water pump pulley if you rock it perpendicular to the rotation of the belt that drives it.
Also that's too much $$$ to replace the pump. Should be about 3.5 hrs (with AC) and $65 for the part, + coolant. I'd guess that an independent repair shop could do this work for around $450 or so.
Why don't you have an indie shop look over the pump carefully as well as your belts and hoses? If the pump shows outward signs of fatigue and your belts and hoses are wearing out, maybe it's a good time to do them all then.
#422 of 574 Manual transmission oil change Toyota Corrolla 2004
Jul 01, 2008 (3:21 pm)
I have a Toyota Corolla 2004 with manual transmission and need to know where the drain and filing plugs are in order to change my transmission oil change. I see some plugs but I am unsure if they are the ones. Thanks!
#423 of 574 Re: Manual transmission oil change Toyota Corrolla 2004 [perdrix1]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Jul 05, 2008 (9:53 am)
Just one plug---a filler plug, which looks to be right behind where the clutch operates, so toward the bell housing, on the clutch lever side.
1. INSPECT TRANSAXLE OIL
1. Stop the vehicle on the level place.
2. Remove the transmission filler plug and gasket.
3. Check that the oil surface is within 5 mm (0.20 inch) from the lowest position of the inner surface of the transmission filler plug opening. NOTICE:
o Excessively large or small amount of oil may cause troubles.
o After replacing oil, drive the vehicle and check the oil level.
4. Check for oil leakage when the oil level is low.
5. Install the transmission filler plug and new gasket. Torque: 39.2 Nm (400 kgf-cm, 29 ft. lbs.)
#424 of 574 Toyota Corolla clutch
Aug 16, 2008 (5:32 am)
I have a 2002 Chevy Prizm which I believe is identical mechanically to the Toyota Corolla. It has 53,000 miles. Recently the clutch started catching very close to the floor and occasionally not disengaging at all with peddle all the way in. Clutch does not slip. If I pump the peddle it recovers somewhat. I checked the master cylinder and the fluid is full but dirty. I saw no obvious leaks of hydralic fluid on a quick examination. Are there clutch adjustments and if so where are they and how do I proceed? Slave cylinder? I will be thankful for any advice or suggestions.
#425 of 574 Re: Toyota Corolla clutch [jerrynelse]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Aug 16, 2008 (8:06 am)
Certainly you should have the hydraulic system flushed out for starters. Gunk in there can impede hydraulic progress.
You can look but I don't think there is adjustment or it might be very minimal. The book doesn't mention it.
If flushing doesn't improve your clutch action you might try a new clutch slave cylinder. Even if you have to replace the clutch and this slave cylinder was the wrong diagnosis, you'll need to put in a new clutch slave with a clutch job anyway.
#426 of 574 Help with Starter Removal 98 corolla
Aug 20, 2008 (8:44 pm)
Am in the process of trying to remove my starter from my 1998 Corolla. I have the Haynes Manual. I've got the bottom two bolts loose and ready to go. But I'm unclear on the top bolt. In the attached I've circled in red what the manual says to loosen and remove.
Is this the right one? There's also a nut on the bolt. And the bolt head is not the standard 6-sided head. Am I supposed to remove the bolt or just the nut?
Here is the picture: [img]http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk299/pogamoggan/corollabolttop.jpg[/img- ]
Also, any tips on removal of the wiring harness. I removed one when I took off the bottom bolt but there is another that seems to be a bit harder to remove.
#427 of 574 2002 corolla
Aug 25, 2008 (12:31 pm)
My 2002 check engine light is on with a PO420 code. Repaced both O2 sensors and catalytic converter. Still the check engine light is on. Please help
Aug 26, 2008 (3:11 pm)
What coolant can I use to fill up a 2006 Corolla. Is it a specific type? Dexcool? Mixes with all types and colors by Prestone?
#429 of 574 Re: 2001 Corolla Dying while idle or at a stop! [sweetkness]
Aug 27, 2008 (8:54 am)
Hello, I have had a similar problem with a Ford Escort I had. After so long the Valve seats dropped out from beneath the cylanders and the whole head was ruined. So Be carefull for that. If you start to get a ticking sound when starting your car, then thats it.
Also, similar problem with my corolla. However in this case, it was nothing much more than the Oxagen Sensor. Simple to replace and couldn't hurt if you car is old as mine(1994)