Last post on Jul 24, 2012 at 9:07 AM
You are in the Mercedes-Benz SL/SLK-Class
What is this discussion about?
Mercedes-Benz SL-Class, Convertible
#460 of 786 Test drive
Apr 11, 2003 (8:53 am)
As you probably know, it is next to impossible to get a test drive in an SL55. Having said that, I was lucky enough to get one and was very impressed by the car.
You might wonder, can AMG really transform a Mercedes into something different? My answer is emphatically yes. In the case of the old model E-55 (1999-2002)I thought they seriously compromised the ride. However in the case of the C32 and the SL55, the cars are transformed into something special. The C32 for example, is as quick as an M3 but has none of the harsh ride issues. It is perfect for slicing and dicing traffic in the city.
The SL55 fixes all the flaws I suffered in my SL500. Frankly, it is possible since my SL500 was one of the very first produced for the US (I took delivery on April 10, 2002), there were a number of production teething pains. There were an abnormal amount of rattles and strange noises plus the brakes were very hard to modulate. Besides that, the SL500 felt ponderous and somewhat slow. The driving experience was nowhere near fun.
The SL55 is better built, very fast and I even like those electronic brakes better than the hydraulic ones in my C32 and CLK500. The SL55 is the best Mercedes I have owned (it is number 10) and the best vehicle I have owned (number 86).
Apr 12, 2003 (1:49 pm)
Wow that is something coming from you. You were just about "finished" with Mercedes a few months ago. How many miles on the CLK500 now, and how has it been reliability wise?
#462 of 786 shoes - C32 question
Apr 13, 2003 (4:40 am)
Off topic, but since you are here, your input would be appreciated.
I have an opportunity to buy an excellent condition 2002 C32 w/ 30k miles from a private owner in our neighborhood for $35k. The mileage is high for a 2002, but the car is used to commute between DC and Pittsburgh 2-3 times per month.
It's been 18 months since I previously test drove a C32 and then elected to keep my current sedan and get an S2000 instead. I also test drove an M3 at the time and have driven an M3 several times since.
Here are my questions: When I test drove a new C32 18 months ago I was very impressed. When I test drove my neighbor's used one, it didn't seem quite as quick as I remembered, nor did it handle quite as well as I remebered (i.e. compared to my S2000 or the M3). From your experience, how would you rate the handling of your C32 to the M3? Also, do you think that some diminishment in performance over 30k miles is normal? How "durable" are AMG cars - i.e. is it reasonable to think that if I got the C32, I could get 150k miles out of it without extraordinary maintenance and repair expenses? I am going to try to test drive a new C32 again for comparison, but I'd like your opinion.
Thanks in advance for any insights / comments.
#463 of 786 CLK 500 and C32
Apr 13, 2003 (3:46 pm)
There are about 6,000 miles on my CLK500. The only problem I have had is that the windshield wiper blades were noisy so they replaced them free. The mileage is disappointing compared to my previous 5.0 liter engine experiences. Nothing above 20 mpg. Otherwise the car is a joy, although it seems slower now compared to the C32 or the SL55.
Not sure I can help on the C32 issue since I only have 1,000 miles. There is no doubt that the car is quick and I like the handling and the ride. There is a comparison on the C32, S4 and M3 in the new Car and Driver and they placed the C32 last for exactly the reasons I would place it first- it is easier to live with and the trade off is less extreme performance (like the harsh ride they cite for both the M3 and S4). Maybe your priorities are different. For me, there is no way I can depress that heavy clutch on the M3 day in and day out.
#464 of 786 500 SL electrical fault
Oct 29, 2003 (5:35 pm)
#465 of 786 500 SL electrical fault
Oct 14, 2003 (8:12 am)
How do I find a ground fault. I have a constant drain from the battery; I pulled all the fuses shown in the owners guide (i in trunk, 2 under hood) and I still had the current drain. Does anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram?
Oct 14, 2003 (1:15 pm)
Here's a way:
Buy a cheap test light.
Remove the positive battery cable from the post (do you remember all your radio codes?) and connect the test light in series with (as an extension of) the positive cable so that the test light itself completes the connection to the positive battery post by "extending" the disconnected positive cable.
If the test light lights, you have a serious drain. If it doesn't light, you either have no drain or a very minimal one that might be due to an LED readout or an alarm system.
If the test light is lit AND NOTHING IS OPEN OR ON IN THE CAR, then disconnect the fuses one by one until the light goes out. When it goes out you know the circuit the short circuit is in at least.
You will need, if not a wiring diagram, at least a chart showing what each fuse controls.
I'm not sure what you meant by: "i in trunk, 2 under hood" when talking about fuses. Do you mean fuse boxes, because there are certainly more than 3 fuses in your car.
so first determine if you really have a drain or just a bum battery. Then isolate the circuit and depending on what you find we can go from there.
#467 of 786 don't forget your courtesy lights
Oct 29, 2003 (5:35 pm)
underhood, in the trunk, in the passenger compartment, etc. you open a door to pull fuses, and lights go on, probably should pop out those bulbs. in fact, because of security computers on the pin switches which may actually control those lights, pull the appropriate fuse for those lights that come on before working through any others.
#468 of 786 Mercedes-Benz SL and SLK (all models)
Nov 18, 2003 (9:38 am)
#469 of 786 Mercedes SL500 vs. SL55
Oct 03, 2003 (10:59 am)
I spent most of the spring and summer trying to buy a new SL55. Since almost all the production run had been presold, about all I could find were "low mileage" units that we're being offered for resale at $20-30K above sticker. Even had I been willing to pay the mark-up, I really wanted to break the car in myself.
Finally, I gave up and bought an SL500 two months ago, and it has turned out to be a great car. The other day, a dealer called me to say he had a new SL55 "on the water" that I could have for sticker . . . and he would give me sticker price less $1K in trade for my SL500. Not a bad deal.
About 90% of my driving is in urban Chicago (a great city but utterly devoid of interesting driving venues). The SL500 feels quicker than I thought it would, and I'm now wondering whether the SL55 is worth the extra cost. The SL500 easily chirps the 385-series tires before the traction control kicks in. My guess is the traction control on the SL55 would do the same at about the same acceleration rate.
So . . . would I really get much of a usable acceleration bang out of the SL55's much heftier torque? Or would it just get siphoned off by the traction control system on those days I'm not willing to fry tires? (I'm sure the SL55 would give me appreciably more punch from higher speeds, but the only "safe" way to have fun with an accelerator pedal in Chicago traffic is acclerating from a stop up to moderate speeds.)