Last post on Jul 17, 2006 at 5:09 AM
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#218 of 220 83' 242T Wiring Question -
Jul 14, 2006 (2:47 am)
Just finished replacing the engine wiring harness. Need some info pertaining to which wire goes where at the alternator..... The original wires had absolutely no insulation left on them so I can't determine where to connect the new wires. I know the heavy gauge Red cable connects to the alternator. This leaves 3 wires as unknown - red, black and green (all similar gauge - perhaps 16 or 18). There is a devise mounted on the engine to the right of the oil filter next to the alternator that accepts 2 of these wires. The 3rd is a mystery. Any knowledge of this? Also at the starter the new harness has an additional set of wires - 2 brown wires connected to a single connector. Since I didn't remove such a wire I'm not sure if I need this connected...???... Thanks.
#219 of 220 Re: 83' 242T Wiring Question - [esommer]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Jul 14, 2006 (6:24 am)
My two cents is to trust one and only one source when re-wiring a car---the wiring diagram for that year. Electrical advice over the Internet, no matter how generously given, is very risky---of course if someone has the exact same year car as you, GREAT! That kind of advice I'd take. I'd do a little hood=popping if I were you. Stop every '83 Volvo you see and beg for mercy.
#220 of 220 83' 242T Constant Idle System Problem
Jul 17, 2006 (5:09 am)
Mr. Shiftright, Thanks for the advise on the wiring question. I did find an 83'242T owner in CA that has restored 3 of them. He was able to give me accurate guidance.
Now for my next problem - We have just finished replacing the deteriorated engine wiring harness, ALL vacuum hoses, wax thermostat and injector seals. While replacing the wiring harness we also removed, cleaned and re installed the intake manifold and throttle body. Prior to these activities we performed a complete tune-up and replaced the timing belt and tensioner. The car starts right up and runs smooth. The problem is that the engine idles at around 2500 RPM (don't know exactly since the tach doesn't work) regardless of operating temperature. The CIS switch on the throttle body is properly adjusted and the idle adjustment screw is backed all the way out. I have tested the air control valve and it does open and close when voltage is applied. The only other thing I check was the connector at the fuel distribution system. When this is unplugged the idle is greatly reduced but still not right.
There probably isn't a silver bullet here, but I have my fingers crossed. My repair manual does give step-by-step trouble shooting instructions but I'm looking to save some time - if possible.
Thanks for all your help!