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Chevrolet Venture, Pontiac Montana, Oldsmobile Silhouette, Van
#1590 of 1617 Blower speed, fuel sender, hard restart when warm, long post
Jan 27, 2010 (6:55 am)
I want to give back to the message board as I used it to assist in diagnosing some issues that were happening in a 2000 Chevy Venture van I bought to resell. The van had 120k miles on it.
The first thing was the blower motor would only work on speeds 4 & 5. The fix offered here worked. Replace the blower resistor behind the blower motor with a new part. It was around $30 or so from Rock auto. The screws that hold it in are tough to access, but it can be done.
The second thing was the fuel gage would be erratic and not maintain a steady level. As mentioned on the board, the fuel sender in the tank was bad. Since I was just fixing it to resell, I only bought the sending unit. Later it will become obvious why you should replace the fuel pump/sending unit as a unit if you are planning keeping the van as your daily driver. To drop the tank and remove the pump module unit is not real hard, but it is messy and time consuming. One note, the serrated ring that holds the pump module to the top of the tank is threaded and screws on and off like a normal nut. Finding a tool to adapt to the purpose of unscrewing that will require some clever thinking. I used a thin pry bar that had a 90-degree bend. With the 90-degree edge in one of the teeth, I tapped it w/a hammer breaking it loose. When retightening, I reversed the process and broke out a section of the plastic ring. It was tighten enough at that point.
The third thing was replacing the crankshaft position sensor. Iím not sure now, that it was the problem. The van had all the symptoms described here, so I bought a new sensor. This is a pretty big job if you do not work on cars and have access to some special tools. The harmonic balancer on the crank shaft must be removed. The bolt that holds it is high torque and the pulley is a press fit to the crankshaft. To remove the bolt, an access cover on the bottom, backside of the engine block must be removed exposing the flywheel. You will have to stick something strong and thin in the one of the teeth of the flywheel and let that react against the engine block so you can develop enough torque to break the bolt free on the harmonic balancer. Same is true to retighten when done. Finished torque is 76 ft/lbs. The bolt is a 12mm x 1.5 pitch.
Now that the bolt is off, you have to pull the harmonic balancer off the crankshaft. A special puller is required. Iím not going to explain the puller, just go order one, or rent one from a auto parts store. Note: this tip will save a lot of heartache. When pulling off the harmonic balancer with the puller, take the bolt already removed and remove the big heavy washer that came with it and set it aside. Now take that unwashered bolt and screw it back into the crankshaft until it stops, finger tight. Now place the puller to the pulley and secure the (3) 3/8Ē holding bolts to the harmonic balancer. The drive screw should center in the head of the bolt you just installed. That bolt provides a perfect surface to screw into. With the flywheel still locked, you can drive the screw on the puller until the pulley comes off. This will take awhile since it not a tapered shaft, so the whole distance is resistance.
I my case, I did not install the bolt into the crankshaft and drove the puller screw into the threads of the crankshaft and buggered them up good. I then bought a tap, (thatís how I know what size the bolt is) to chase the treads so I could then screw the bolt back into the crank and start the process over again.
Now remove the sensor and replace. Getting at the connector and freeing it from the bracket itís clipped to is another opportunity for the profanity center of the brain to be well stimulated.
Another lesson was when putting the harmonic balancer back on, the original bolt is not long enough to engage the crankshaft. I bought several different length bolts, 12mm x 1.5, x 65mm and shorter, that would get screwed in many turns before making contact with pulley. It is a lot of force to push that pulley back on the crank, so you need adequate thread engagement so as not to strip them. The flywheel still needs to be secured. As the pulley is pulled on, a shorter bolt must be used until you can use the original one. Of course, each time you do this, the big heavy washer is used on the bolt.
My rinky dink flywheel holder would come free each time I reversed the screwing direction. Once the bolt/washer is installed, a final torque of 76 ft/lbs (103NM) should be applied.
Now put everything else back together.
After all that work, the van really did not start any better when warm. At higher revolutions, it would misfire some and it turned on the check engine light. I disconnected the battery trying to turn off the light, twice, but it remained on. Now comes the expensive part of the story. I have to punt and take it to a shop that could plug into the computers and diagnose what is turning on the light. $400 later, I have an answer.
Here is the outcome and explanation that made sense to me. The issue was high of back pressure in the exhaust system. The catalytic converter was partially plugged up and creating to much back pressure. The Oxygen sensors, there are 2 here that come into play, were also not performing and that was sending bad info to the engine control computer. He explanation of why the catalytic converter failed makes sense, as that is not a part that should not fail. When these vans have their predetermined intake/head gasket problem, coolant gets into the exhaust system. The severity of the leak, how long you ignore the problem all matter as to how much damage is done to the catalytic converter as this coolant sticks to the catalysist beads in the converter and plugs them up. It also messes up the O2 sensors and that is why they fail. So there was no getting around the problem, it had to be fixed.
While at the shop, $100 gets diagnostic readings on several systems. The fuel pump, though still running and not sending a trouble code, is on its way out. The next owner will have to deal with that, but that is why I mentioned above to fix it and the sending unit whenever the first one fails as unit. The fuel pump leaks down internally, and that is why the van is little hard starting when warm.
I hope others will benefit from that data.
#1591 of 1617 Re: 2003 xl yukon denali [dmontana]
Jan 27, 2010 (7:09 am)
I also have a 2003 Denali with the same traction control issue. I just push the button to deactive, but it is a nuisance.
#1592 of 1617 Power Window switch Driver's side ?
Mar 05, 2010 (6:33 am)
1998 Olds Van
Driver's side power switch will lower the passenger side window...
but will not raise it. Passenger side switch will raise the window.
Before I start replacing switches and possibly screwing up what does work...
Is the problem likely the switch or a window motor issue?
I ask because the driver;s side window works fine from the left switch.
Right now I can get the pass window back up with pass switch...
although it could be a bit slower than before???
Are switches a simple wedge out and replace or does trim have to come off?
Should I buy new (Switch Doctor) or do the Junkyard dance???
#1593 of 1617 window switch
Mar 09, 2010 (12:54 pm)
The driver side switch went bad on ours and did the same thing. It worked fine from the passenger side but not so well from the drivers side.
These cars are "Snap Together" cars. Just pull up the small plate the switch rides in (pry it up with your fingernails), unplug it, put in the new one and snap it back together.
The switches are very inexpensive on ebay, I think it was about $30 with shipping included. Might not be worth messing with the junk yard.
#1594 of 1617 Re: window switch [bob550k]
Mar 09, 2010 (1:14 pm)
Do I have to also remove the trim plate that seems to set around the switches?
My wife has the car right now so I can not go out and look...
I think I remember a oval trim plate ???
I will ebay search fro the switches. Thanks.
Mar 11, 2010 (9:21 pm)
The plate is probably 6" long maybe 2" wide, sort of oval, the window switches, door locks and mirror all sit in it (I think) Just pull that whole part up with your fingernails, it just pops out. You will see how it goes together inside. It couldn't be easier.
#1596 of 1617 Replacing the Catalytic Converter
May 02, 2010 (5:10 am)
Last year we had the inevitable head gasket problem on our 2000 Venture. Then this winter the "Service Engine Soon" light came on. I checked the code and it was indicating the catalytic converter. Well, I did some research and came across several places indicating that the catalytic converter often needs to be replaced (as usual this forum had the most information) after having the head gasket issue. I purchased a direct fit catalytic converter. It comes in two pieces and no instructions. The pictures show only one piece. I purchased a direct fit because I thought no welding was involved. To me the toughest part of replacing the catalytic converter seemed to be getting enough room under the van to be able to work on removing the bolts. Now I am not so sure. Does the direct fit catalytic converter require any welding? I do not have the equipment nor the know how to weld.
Sep 30, 2010 (2:50 pm)
Degreased engine and sprayed it with water hose. Let dry for three days, now engine won't start. Completely dead, no click, nothing. Pulled starter and had it checked, starter was fine. Anyone had this problem?
#1598 of 1617 Re: Dead Engine [nmagdeleno]
Oct 19, 2010 (12:00 am)
always good to start engine after washing to dry it out and stuff. I'd check battery connection in this case but sure you got going by now!
#1599 of 1617 Dash lights and head lights flickering
Jan 15, 2011 (9:46 am)
2000 Olds Silhouette 103K miles has been having the dash lights and the head lights flickering many months, most noticible at idling, at high rpm it hardly noticible. I was thinking replacing the alternator, while searching the "how to replace the alternator..." last night. I went out to check the obvious loose connections first, no loose connections found. I tested the alternator with a simple device brought from local automotive parts store and the lights registered 14.0V out put, which is normal. I decided to apply a few light taps on the back cover of the alternator while the engine running. The head lights stop flickering immediately. I think something (relay, voltage regulator, switch, loose connection) inside may have been sticky and was loosen by the tapping. This morning I restarted the car and so far the flickering haven't returned. You may want to try this first before spending the money. Good luck!