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Internet vs. Traditional Car Buying

3011 messages,  Last post on Aug 27, 2009 at 10:23 AM

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What is this discussion about? Car Buying


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#51 of 3011
By my experience.... by tblazer503
Dec 18, 2002 (3:17 pm)
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Replying to: isellpotiac (Feb 23, 2002 8:35 am)

You can uaually get a better deal by negotiating your pants off...
 
The internet sales managers generally sell by a pre-discounted no haggling price. For me this is the "easiest" way to go. I have personally seen my price move $140, but that's it. I paid about 500 over invoice for a '03 Accord EX 4dr about 2 weeks after it came out. This whole process took me about 2-3 hours including F&I, appraising the trade, etc.
 
The other option is to walk into a dealership, find the car, etc. Then the negotiating starts. You will generally start at MSRP + AMV(adjusted market value) of some type. Then you will haggle for a few hours, threaten to walk out a few times, etc. My '02 Trailblazer, using the old fashioned way took about 18-20 hours to negotiate. This was also purchased about a month after it came out, and they were trying to get MSRP. I ended up getting it for about 400 over invoice. Of course, you could get a real cool salesperson that just cuts to the chase and gives you a great deal off the bat, but then they are cutting into their profit for a quick sale(i think) besides, these are few and far between(from my experiences).
 
If you consider both sides, IMHO, it is pretty inconsiderate to try to negotiate an internet sale, especially when they are already cutting their profit to give you a good deal off the bat and not waste anyone's time. I got lucky and my salesperson felt bad for my situation, and he offered the cut in price, but it wasn't much, better than nothing, but I probably coulda done the $140. I surely wasn't a deal breaker.
 
So you can interpolate whether or not it is worth it. Saving a few hundred dollars over 5-10+ hours of more stress, and anguish is not worth it to me, and if you finance it, it's only a couple of dollars a month. (if you save 300.00 over internet pricing but takes 5extra hours over 60months is about $5.00/mo)
#52 of 3011
Doesn't hurt to ask but by afk_x
Dec 19, 2002 (2:09 am)
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Replying to: isellpotiac (Feb 23, 2002 8:35 am)

Don't be surprised if the salespeople lose interest in a hurry.

Salespeople are paid on gross profit - no profit, no pay.

#53 of 3011
linsalad by masspector
Dec 19, 2002 (4:14 am)
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Replying to: isellpotiac (Feb 23, 2002 8:35 am)

Good luck getting a dealer to quote you a price via email. In 96 I had a great experience shopping via email and phone, only had to go to a few dealers for trade appraisals. My last car buying experience in 02 was a mess. Only about 10% of dealers that I contacted even gave an email price quote. And most dealer websites are not set up to provide real time inventory info.
 
Also make sure you get an out the door price. Even the dealers that did give email quotes, when I went in person to test drive and talk to the internet sales guy, all of the sudden there were a bunch of fees.
 
You should always negotiate. The sales man may get irritated, but you will never know if you don't ask.
#54 of 3011
tblazer by masspector
Dec 19, 2002 (4:21 am)
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Replying to: isellpotiac (Feb 23, 2002 8:35 am)

"Then the negotiating starts. You will generally start at MSRP + AMV(adjusted market value) of some type. "
 
The salesman may start at MSRP, but the buyer should always start negotiations at or near invoice (minus any incentives, minus holdback, minus the double secret end of year incentive, minus the dealer owns ten dealership bonus money, minus the 5% padding that the dealer always adds to the invoice, and manufacturer paid trip to Hawaii for the dealer; only kidding, should read minus any incentives) , depending on the vehicle.
#55 of 3011
Mass by manamal
Dec 19, 2002 (4:53 am)
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Replying to: isellpotiac (Feb 23, 2002 8:35 am)

I don't know, when I see MSRP +ADM for anything other than an extremely popular car (e.g., ODDESSEY type popular), I start at invoice - 10%....with a comment like, you have ADM, I start with SDL: some dealer loss. That usually takes ADM off the plate, and I come up to invoice....then I make a comment like "edmunds TMV is XXX....I will give you XXX-[price of doc fee], or I will be happy to pay TMV + TAX, Tags".
 
That breaks any log jam quickly.
#56 of 3011
And... by isellhondas
Dec 19, 2002 (6:53 am)
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Replying to: isellpotiac (Feb 23, 2002 8:35 am)

The buyer can make this a long, drawn out, miserable process in their quest to "save" a lousy 200.00.
 
For some people it's worth giving up days of their lives for this.
 
From my vantage point...it's fun to watch sometimes!
#57 of 3011
It ran out of fun for me by zueslewis
Dec 19, 2002 (7:09 am)
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Replying to: isellpotiac (Feb 23, 2002 8:35 am)

after the initial "hit" by the customer when they negotiating started getting silly and the argument was over 10 or 20 bucks. The first $1000 would get out of the way in 5 minutes, then we'd spend an hour over 20 bucks - that always wore me out and ruined me for wanting to treat the people like royalty. It also ruined me for follow up stuff.
#58 of 3011
Haggling over small amounts by beechman
Dec 19, 2002 (4:19 pm)
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Replying to: isellpotiac (Feb 23, 2002 8:35 am)

If it's only a "lousy" 200 bucks, or even 20 bucks, why not roll over and give the customer what they're asking for instead of drawing the process out? Or just "blow them out" and give yourself more time to work on a more profitable customer? I'm sure this has been asked before, just curious as to the reasoning of the sales folks for that course of action.
#59 of 3011
Often it's not the salesman. . . by caramo
Dec 19, 2002 (4:28 pm)
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Replying to: isellpotiac (Feb 23, 2002 8:35 am)

By the time it gets to arguing over a couple hundred dollars, it probably makes no difference to the salesman, since it most likely has been ground down to a minimum deal by that point. Hence, I wouldn't blow them out, since a deal is a deal, mini or not.
 
But if a sales manager gets deducted for "loser" deals, he's going to try to hold out for that extra couple bucks.
#60 of 3011
If you're at a nothing deal, by zueslewis
Dec 19, 2002 (4:53 pm)
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Replying to: isellpotiac (Feb 23, 2002 8:35 am)

many of which I've written where the net is $100 and I have to pay the salesman $75, $20 makes the difference.
 
So I ask, if it's only $20, why not roll over, Mr. Customer, and give the dealer what they're asking instead of drawing the process out?
 
Besides, if you'll go $20, surely you'll go another $20, and some people don't have respect enough to stop asking - on both sides of the car deal.

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