Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
Pickups Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Care & Maintenance
374 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 10:44 PM
You are in the Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma Forum. Your Host is kcram
|
Replying to: hoodlatch (Nov 06, 2006 9:39 am) I blocked up the bottom of the door with wood blocks to support everything while I drove out the old pin. Pops helped me with free advice, holding the droplight, and wiggling the door when needed. The replacement pin and bushing fit perfectly. The tricky part was getting the spring back in. It would be faster if I had use of a spring compressor but I didn’t feel like renting or buying one. What I did to overcome the lack of a spring compressor was to compress the spring in a vice, took a wrap through the spring with stainless steel wire, and used needle nose pliers to twist the wire tight. That held the spring compressed enough that I could use a screwdriver to get the spring poked back in where it belongs. After that I used a pair of dikes to cut the wire loose and wha-lah, job done. I was happy to see how well it all went. No skinned knuckles, pinched fingers, cursing, or throwing objects. Now my door opens closes like it should with out a hitch. We’ll probably do Dad’s S-10 next. I think the total cost for parts (pin and bushing kit) was less than five bucks. Total time for Pops and I from start to finish was probably around 45 minutes to an hour. A technician that does this kind of work for a living could do the same job in half the time. 
|
|
|
Replying to: mattison1 (Sep 09, 2002 6:20 pm)
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: bomb21 (Jul 12, 2007 9:20 am) Mattison1 asked: My 98 S-10 blazer is start hard in the mornings and after sitting for more than 30 min. When it is running it runs fine. I have replaced the plugs, had the throttle body ckecked, and had the electrical system ckecked. So far I have found nothing. Any ideas welcome. Unless you are having the exact same issue and have done the exact same things, I would try just posting your exact issue. That way you can recieve more direct advice instead of more generic advice. So without knowing exactly what it is that you are having a problem with here is some generic advice... It sounds like it might be either a fuel filter or a fuel pump. I would lean more towards a fuel pump rather than a filter, but try changing the filter first. It is by far cheaper and easier to do and should be done every couple of years or so anyway. See if that helps. You could aslo be losing fuel pressure in the lines. Even with the truck off the fuel lines remain pressurized and fuel delivery to the injector is instant the minute the starter is turned. If you are losing fuel pressure when the truck is turned off, it will take several cranks of the starter and the fuel pump to deliver fuel back to the injectors. Once the truck is running a fuel is flowing, then you're good to go, but the minute you kill the power to the pump (turn the ignition off), then you lose all pressure and you're back to square one. The pump is what maintains the pressure (even when the truck is off) and so it is possible that the pump is allowing the pressure to bleed off over a matter of time. Which would explain why an overnight sit or even a 30 minute sit would induce hard starting. This is the direction I would point you in. There are a couple of ways you can test this. On your truck (depending on motor size - 2.2 or 4.3. I only know the 4.3) there is a schrader valve on the fuel line next to the throttle body. This is where you can bleed off the fuel pressure (so that you can change the filter with out getting sprayed by fuel. Trust me, if you do change the filter, BLEED OFF THE PRESSURE! It sucks getting sprayed by fuel while lying underneath the truck.) Anyway, to test, pull the dust cap off the valve and stick a pressure gauge (available at an autoparts store like Shucks or Autozone), and check the pressure. Then come back a few minutes later and check it again. It should read about the same. If the pressure is quite a bit lower than the previous reading, you probably have a pressure problem. You can also test this with out a pressure guage, but you will probably get a bit smelly. At the schrader valve take a container and some rags to catch the spilled gas and hold it by the valve. Depress the pin taking care not to have your face over the valve as you do so to relieve the pressure. Do this immediatly after the truck has been running for a couple of minutes. Long enough to build up the fuel pressure, but no long enough to get the motor so hot that you can burn yourself on everything under the hood. Once all, or most of the pressure is bled off, start the truck again. It should be hard to start. Then let it run for a couple minutes like before and then shut it down. Let it sit for a while and then come back and WITHOUT starting the truck, repeat the process with the rags and container. If you have a pressure problem, there shouldn't be a whole lot of gas spewing out of the valve. So first and foremost, change the fuel filter. It isn't hard and something you can probably do yourself. By going through the process you will invariably discover whether or not you have pressure in the fuel lines because you should be bleeding off the pressure anyway so that you don't get sprayed with you release the lines connected to the fuel filter. If you do find that you have a pressure problem, then you might have a bad pump, but not neccasarily. You could also have a bad or loose vacumn somewhere in the that is also allowing pressure to bleed off. From there I'm afraid I am not much help. Changing a a fuel pump isn't hard, but it isn't fun. Depending on your mechanical expertise, you might just want to take it to a shop. They might also be able to run some diagnostics to determine whether it is the pump or something in the fuel lines.
|
|
|
Replying to: the_big_al (Jun 27, 2008 3:16 pm)
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: bomb21 (Jul 16, 2007 9:46 am) |
|
|
|
|
So it's been awhile since I have been here and needed to post something, but here goes. I am a bit baffled by this odd bit. Just tonight I replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor on my '01 4.3 V6 S-10. Everything seemed to go according to plan and there didn't seem to be any major issues - other than fighting the steering rod on the driver's side and the dipstick tube on the passenger side. When I went to fire it up though, it fired just fine, the engine sounded normal, if not smoother than before, but there was a wierd clacking like noise coming from the distributer cap and rotor. I shut the truck off, took the cap off and looked at the new roter. It appeared that some of top parts had broken off, but I didn't see any plastic parts or debris anywhere in the cap or under the rotor. The broken of pieces didn't appear to be affecting the performance and after comparing it to the old rotor I determined that there wasn't really anything wrong with it. I looked at the cap and it also looked fine. I put it back together and took it for a test drive. It still clacked-kind of like plastic hitting plastic sound. The truck ran normally. No mis-fires, good power, nothing out of the ordinary except the clacking sound. I got back home and exchanged the new rotor for the old one and I got the same noise. I am stumped. I checked the wiring to make sure I had wired the new plugs correctly and I had. I also checked to make sure the cap was on tight and it was, except that if I forced the cap back towards the drivers side of the firewall the noise seemed to lessen and when I put my hand on the cap, it felt like the rotor was striking the side of the cap... Do I have a bum cap? Or is it something else? Since it was almost 9 PM before I was decided to quit fiddling with the thing, the auto parts store where I bought the cap was closed. Actually it closed about 45 minutes after I bought the stuff so I was out of luck almost before I started working... So as of right now I am stuck with what to do. I will take the cap back tomorrow and see if they will exchange it - maybe take the guy outside and have him listen to the vehicle... I hope they can do something if it is the cap. It was almost $50...  But if anyone has any ideas I am open to them... I just didn't think a simple plug and wire change would turn into such a battle.
|
|
I have an 02 Chev S-10 4.3L. I gradually started losing heat. Replaced the thermostat with an OEM, flushed the radiator, engine and heater core, bled the system several times, got some heat for a short time, now I have very little heat. I wonder if there is a thermal control valve in this system? Inlet hose to the heater is hot and the outlet is cold. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
|
|
|
Replying to: gerry66 (Dec 01, 2008 4:40 pm) |
|
|
|
03 Sonoma ext. cab, automatic trans w/3 button electronic transfer case; owned since new: All 3 buttons light when key is turned to start; 2WD button is lit once started. NOTHING happens when 4HI or 4LO button is pushed. Fuses under hood and in kick panel are good. Another site said probably bad actuator motor but I couldn't follow up and find out how to check it. Where is this actuator motor? Is there also a relay that could be bad? TIA
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: Indian4Rider (Dec 05, 2008 11:48 am) There must be a switching valve and maybe a relay somewhere to control the vacuum to the actuator. Anybody know where the clever folks at GM hid it? Eager for suggestions... |
|
You are here:
Forums
Pickups Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Care & Maintenance
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2004 Chevrolet S-10
1990 GMC S-15
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats
