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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Care & Maintenance

374 messages,  Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 10:44 PM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet S-10, GMC S-15, Truck


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#345 of 374
Re: starts when cold not when warm [seandumas] by canufixit
Feb 22, 2007 (9:39 am)
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Replying to: seandumas (Feb 21, 2007 10:16 pm)

Hi,
 
A couple dumb thoughts -
 
- Vapor lock in the fuel lines? (Probably not if the pump is in the tank )
 
- or more possibly - Try lossening your gas cap - I'm wondering if you are getting a vacuum lok in the gas tank ...
#346 of 374
2001 4.3L 4x4 Sonoma Radiator Drain Plug Location? by dangles
Feb 22, 2007 (11:32 am)
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Hey guys just wondering if anyone knew where to find the radiator drain plug as I am looking to flush my system. Thanks
#347 of 374
Re: 2001 4.3L 4x4 Sonoma Radiator Drain Plug Location? [dangles] by the_big_al
Jun 27, 2008 (3:16 pm)
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Replying to: dangles (Feb 22, 2007 11:32 am)

Bottom corner of the raiator ... give me a sec and I'll run out to my truck and verify ...
 
I believe that it is on the passenger side lower corner?? I did go out and look (but with wet snow and such, I am NOT crawling under it to make sure. I couldn't tell from up top.
 
If all else fails and you can't find it, just pop the lower radiator hose. of course then all the water would come rushing out with little hope of containing it all.
#348 of 374
Re: 2001 4.3L 4x4 Sonoma Radiator Drain Plug Location? [thebigal] by dangles
Feb 22, 2007 (12:43 pm)
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Replying to: the_big_al (Jun 27, 2008 3:16 pm)

I have seem to found it on the bottom driverside corner of the rad, unfortunately it is very flush with the rad and difficult to get your hand into loosen it off. Has anyone every taken one off and have any suggestions? Thanks
#349 of 374
Re: 2001 4.3L 4x4 Sonoma Radiator Drain Plug Location? [dangles] by hoodlatch
Feb 22, 2007 (4:40 pm)
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Replying to: dangles (Feb 22, 2007 12:43 pm)

I'm not sure on yours but alot of the newer GM's have a drain plug that turns only 1/2 a turn and pops loose. I use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and short extension. The plug itself has a 1/4 inch square indentation. Needless to say you can burn your hand if the engine has been running.
Good luck
#350 of 374
Re: no power to fuel pump [ozzzy12002] by cnw
Mar 14, 2007 (7:26 am)
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Replying to: ozzzy12002 (Jun 05, 2005 9:12 pm)

I had the sajme problem on an '83 VW GTI. Replaced the fuel pump relay and the problem went away. There was a certain temperature range that caused it to lose contact; above or below was fine.
Clark
#351 of 374
Re: 92 S-10 2WD 4.3Z door hinge [hoodlatch] by hoodlatch
May 28, 2007 (7:27 pm)
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Replying to: hoodlatch (Nov 06, 2006 9:39 am)

After much procrastination, I finally replaced the hinge pin on my 92 S-10. It wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be. Preliminary thought was to replace the entire hinge. That is till I found out they are installed by being welded on. So I went with plan “b”, replace bushings and pin and keep old hinge.
 
I blocked up the bottom of the door with wood blocks to support everything while I drove out the old pin. Pops helped me with free advice, holding the droplight, and wiggling the door when needed. The replacement pin and bushing fit perfectly.
 
The tricky part was getting the spring back in. It would be faster if I had use of a spring compressor but I didn’t feel like renting or buying one. What I did to overcome the lack of a spring compressor was to compress the spring in a vice, took a wrap through the spring with stainless steel wire, and used needle nose pliers to twist the wire tight. That held the spring compressed enough that I could use a screwdriver to get the spring poked back in where it belongs. After that I used a pair of dikes to cut the wire loose and wha-lah, job done.
 
I was happy to see how well it all went. No skinned knuckles, pinched fingers, cursing, or throwing objects. Now my door opens closes like it should with out a hitch.
 
We’ll probably do Dad’s S-10 next. I think the total cost for parts (pin and bushing kit) was less than five bucks. Total time for Pops and I from start to finish was probably around 45 minutes to an hour. A technician that does this kind of work for a living could do the same job in half the time.
#352 of 374
Re: Hard Starting [mattison1] by bomb21
Jul 12, 2007 (9:20 am)
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Replying to: mattison1 (Sep 09, 2002 6:20 pm)

my s 10 is having the same problem if you have any tips please help.
#353 of 374
Re: Hard Starting [bomb21] by the_big_al
Jun 27, 2008 (3:16 pm)
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Replying to: bomb21 (Jul 12, 2007 9:20 am)

You are replying to a post that is 5 years old. I had to go back to the original post to see what the issue was. Here is the original post:
 
Mattison1 asked: My 98 S-10 blazer is start hard in the mornings and after sitting for more than 30 min. When it is running it runs fine. I have replaced the plugs, had the throttle body ckecked, and had the electrical system ckecked. So far I have found nothing. Any ideas welcome.
 
Unless you are having the exact same issue and have done the exact same things, I would try just posting your exact issue. That way you can recieve more direct advice instead of more generic advice. So without knowing exactly what it is that you are having a problem with here is some generic advice...
 
It sounds like it might be either a fuel filter or a fuel pump. I would lean more towards a fuel pump rather than a filter, but try changing the filter first. It is by far cheaper and easier to do and should be done every couple of years or so anyway. See if that helps. You could aslo be losing fuel pressure in the lines. Even with the truck off the fuel lines remain pressurized and fuel delivery to the injector is instant the minute the starter is turned. If you are losing fuel pressure when the truck is turned off, it will take several cranks of the starter and the fuel pump to deliver fuel back to the injectors. Once the truck is running a fuel is flowing, then you're good to go, but the minute you kill the power to the pump (turn the ignition off), then you lose all pressure and you're back to square one. The pump is what maintains the pressure (even when the truck is off) and so it is possible that the pump is allowing the pressure to bleed off over a matter of time. Which would explain why an overnight sit or even a 30 minute sit would induce hard starting.
 
This is the direction I would point you in. There are a couple of ways you can test this. On your truck (depending on motor size - 2.2 or 4.3. I only know the 4.3) there is a schrader valve on the fuel line next to the throttle body. This is where you can bleed off the fuel pressure (so that you can change the filter with out getting sprayed by fuel. Trust me, if you do change the filter, BLEED OFF THE PRESSURE! It sucks getting sprayed by fuel while lying underneath the truck.) Anyway, to test, pull the dust cap off the valve and stick a pressure gauge (available at an autoparts store like Shucks or Autozone), and check the pressure. Then come back a few minutes later and check it again. It should read about the same. If the pressure is quite a bit lower than the previous reading, you probably have a pressure problem.
 
You can also test this with out a pressure guage, but you will probably get a bit smelly. At the schrader valve take a container and some rags to catch the spilled gas and hold it by the valve. Depress the pin taking care not to have your face over the valve as you do so to relieve the pressure. Do this immediatly after the truck has been running for a couple of minutes. Long enough to build up the fuel pressure, but no long enough to get the motor so hot that you can burn yourself on everything under the hood. Once all, or most of the pressure is bled off, start the truck again. It should be hard to start. Then let it run for a couple minutes like before and then shut it down. Let it sit for a while and then come back and WITHOUT starting the truck, repeat the process with the rags and container. If you have a pressure problem, there shouldn't be a whole lot of gas spewing out of the valve.
 
So first and foremost, change the fuel filter. It isn't hard and something you can probably do yourself. By going through the process you will invariably discover whether or not you have pressure in the fuel lines because you should be bleeding off the pressure anyway so that you don't get sprayed with you release the lines connected to the fuel filter.
 
If you do find that you have a pressure problem, then you might have a bad pump, but not neccasarily. You could also have a bad or loose vacumn somewhere in the that is also allowing pressure to bleed off. From there I'm afraid I am not much help. Changing a a fuel pump isn't hard, but it isn't fun. Depending on your mechanical expertise, you might just want to take it to a shop. They might also be able to run some diagnostics to determine whether it is the pump or something in the fuel lines.
#354 of 374
Re: Hard Starting [thebigal] by bomb21
Jul 16, 2007 (9:46 am)
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Replying to: the_big_al (Jun 27, 2008 3:16 pm)

wow thanks for the reply. here is some more info, this chevy s10 blazer is hard to star after sitting for more than 1 hour. i have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel regulator & cleaned my fuel pump ground. first ignition cycle in the morning i have 50 psi fuel pressure when cranking drops to 45 psi, wont start. hooked up my battery charger and fuel pressure jumps to 60 psi, it then takes a couple of cranks, but will start. battery is good(load tested)& cleaned my terminals. i am getting 10.3 volts from the fuel pump relay when cranking and 9.7 at the pump( no charger connected) this does not seem to be enough to work the fuel pump. i am pretty sure i have a voltage drop someware, but ware? i would think 10 volt should be enough to operate the fuel pump.

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