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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Care & Maintenance

374 messages,  Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 10:44 PM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet S-10, GMC S-15, Truck


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#343 of 374
Re: to thebigal - Question on front drive train noise ?? [canufixit] by the_big_al
Jun 27, 2008 (3:16 pm)
Reply

Replying to: canufixit (Feb 19, 2007 1:19 pm)

Is is possible that the front drive shaft U-joint is coming apart?
 
Some months ago I had my rear U-joint replaced. At first I thought I was hearing things because it was a real quite almost grinding noise that would manifest it self only on take-off. For a couple months I could barely notice it. But as time wore on, it got louder, but still only manifested itself on take-offs. Then it got to the point where I could idle down the street (5 MPH) and hear the grinding....
 
That's the only thing I can think of since I only have a 2wd. Although when I re-did the brakes a couple months ago, I also repacked the front wheel bearing, but they seemed to be turning fine and making no noise. This was at about 100K and the 1st time I had ever done it. 4wd setup is probably a little different though?
 
I think that your are right in that if something is going, it's gonna go quickly if you drive a nominal amount of miles. If you don't drive so much, and something is on it's way out and is related to the drivetrain, then it of course might take longer to rear it's ugly head.
 
The only noise my truck makes is a knock in the steering column that developed after one of my last road trips over rough terrain. It has since dimished a little, but since the steering still works fine, I haven't taken the time to look at it. My oil leak is of more concern to me.
#344 of 374
starts when cold not when warm by seandumas
Feb 21, 2007 (10:16 pm)
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Hi,
I have a 98 chevy s10 with 83,000 miles on it. the problem is when i start it in the mornings when its cold, it turns over right away, when i try to turn it on when its warm it will crank for about 3 to 4 seconds and start up really rough.
 
I had a mechanic look at and he told me my fuel pump was bad so i changed that and now im out 500 bucks and no solution to my problem.
  
Also after it starts up warm and i turn it off then on again right away it will start up fast, but if i let it sit for a couple minutes it wont start right away!
 
What is wrong with my truck?
#345 of 374
Re: starts when cold not when warm [seandumas] by canufixit
Feb 22, 2007 (9:39 am)
Reply

Replying to: seandumas (Feb 21, 2007 10:16 pm)

Hi,
 
A couple dumb thoughts -
 
- Vapor lock in the fuel lines? (Probably not if the pump is in the tank )
 
- or more possibly - Try lossening your gas cap - I'm wondering if you are getting a vacuum lok in the gas tank ...
#346 of 374
2001 4.3L 4x4 Sonoma Radiator Drain Plug Location? by dangles
Feb 22, 2007 (11:32 am)
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Hey guys just wondering if anyone knew where to find the radiator drain plug as I am looking to flush my system. Thanks
#347 of 374
Re: 2001 4.3L 4x4 Sonoma Radiator Drain Plug Location? [dangles] by the_big_al
Jun 27, 2008 (3:16 pm)
Reply

Replying to: dangles (Feb 22, 2007 11:32 am)

Bottom corner of the raiator ... give me a sec and I'll run out to my truck and verify ...
 
I believe that it is on the passenger side lower corner?? I did go out and look (but with wet snow and such, I am NOT crawling under it to make sure. I couldn't tell from up top.
 
If all else fails and you can't find it, just pop the lower radiator hose. of course then all the water would come rushing out with little hope of containing it all.
#348 of 374
Re: 2001 4.3L 4x4 Sonoma Radiator Drain Plug Location? [thebigal] by dangles
Feb 22, 2007 (12:43 pm)
Reply

Replying to: the_big_al (Jun 27, 2008 3:16 pm)

I have seem to found it on the bottom driverside corner of the rad, unfortunately it is very flush with the rad and difficult to get your hand into loosen it off. Has anyone every taken one off and have any suggestions? Thanks
#349 of 374
Re: 2001 4.3L 4x4 Sonoma Radiator Drain Plug Location? [dangles] by hoodlatch
Feb 22, 2007 (4:40 pm)
Reply

Replying to: dangles (Feb 22, 2007 12:43 pm)

I'm not sure on yours but alot of the newer GM's have a drain plug that turns only 1/2 a turn and pops loose. I use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and short extension. The plug itself has a 1/4 inch square indentation. Needless to say you can burn your hand if the engine has been running.
Good luck
#350 of 374
Re: no power to fuel pump [ozzzy12002] by cnw
Mar 14, 2007 (7:26 am)
Reply

Replying to: ozzzy12002 (Jun 05, 2005 9:12 pm)

I had the sajme problem on an '83 VW GTI. Replaced the fuel pump relay and the problem went away. There was a certain temperature range that caused it to lose contact; above or below was fine.
Clark
#351 of 374
Re: 92 S-10 2WD 4.3Z door hinge [hoodlatch] by hoodlatch
May 28, 2007 (7:27 pm)
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Replying to: hoodlatch (Nov 06, 2006 9:39 am)

After much procrastination, I finally replaced the hinge pin on my 92 S-10. It wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be. Preliminary thought was to replace the entire hinge. That is till I found out they are installed by being welded on. So I went with plan “b”, replace bushings and pin and keep old hinge.
 
I blocked up the bottom of the door with wood blocks to support everything while I drove out the old pin. Pops helped me with free advice, holding the droplight, and wiggling the door when needed. The replacement pin and bushing fit perfectly.
 
The tricky part was getting the spring back in. It would be faster if I had use of a spring compressor but I didn’t feel like renting or buying one. What I did to overcome the lack of a spring compressor was to compress the spring in a vice, took a wrap through the spring with stainless steel wire, and used needle nose pliers to twist the wire tight. That held the spring compressed enough that I could use a screwdriver to get the spring poked back in where it belongs. After that I used a pair of dikes to cut the wire loose and wha-lah, job done.
 
I was happy to see how well it all went. No skinned knuckles, pinched fingers, cursing, or throwing objects. Now my door opens closes like it should with out a hitch.
 
We’ll probably do Dad’s S-10 next. I think the total cost for parts (pin and bushing kit) was less than five bucks. Total time for Pops and I from start to finish was probably around 45 minutes to an hour. A technician that does this kind of work for a living could do the same job in half the time.
#352 of 374
Re: Hard Starting [mattison1] by bomb21
Jul 12, 2007 (9:20 am)
Reply

Replying to: mattison1 (Sep 09, 2002 6:20 pm)

my s 10 is having the same problem if you have any tips please help.

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