Last post on Oct 06, 2013 at 8:34 AM
You are in the Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma
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Chevrolet S-10, GMC S-15, Truck
#342 of 400 to thebigal - Question on front drive train noise ??
Feb 19, 2007 (1:19 pm)
A Question for you (and others) if I may ?? My, purchased new, 2002 GMC Sonoma (now has only 48K mi) has been acting a little strange in the part few months (or may be it's just me being paranoid ??).
The Front end / drive bearings seem to be getting louder - but it seems to come and go. Perhaps it's just age - and the cold in the winter in the NE. USA. One Front bearing was changed about 15K mile ago - and it seems no louder that the other (if for nothing more than a comparison.). The front drive train noise tends to come and go - perhaps with temperature - and perhaps with changes in asphalt ... And, as it's getting older - It's probably just me complaining about an aging truck ... So, my question is - is your front end drive train / bearing, etc. still a quiet as when you had purchased the truck (I assume new ??) .
I did change tires some months ago (to Toyo) and there was a slight difference in road noise - but this issue has been bugging me for about a year. It comes and goes (to my poor hearing) - but I assume if there was something going - it would show itself after a number of months ... Otherwise I have no issues ..
#343 of 400 Re: to thebigal - Question on front drive train noise ?? [canufixit]
Jun 27, 2008 (3:16 pm)
Is is possible that the front drive shaft U-joint is coming apart?
Some months ago I had my rear U-joint replaced. At first I thought I was hearing things because it was a real quite almost grinding noise that would manifest it self only on take-off. For a couple months I could barely notice it. But as time wore on, it got louder, but still only manifested itself on take-offs. Then it got to the point where I could idle down the street (5 MPH) and hear the grinding....
That's the only thing I can think of since I only have a 2wd. Although when I re-did the brakes a couple months ago, I also repacked the front wheel bearing, but they seemed to be turning fine and making no noise. This was at about 100K and the 1st time I had ever done it. 4wd setup is probably a little different though?
I think that your are right in that if something is going, it's gonna go quickly if you drive a nominal amount of miles. If you don't drive so much, and something is on it's way out and is related to the drivetrain, then it of course might take longer to rear it's ugly head.
The only noise my truck makes is a knock in the steering column that developed after one of my last road trips over rough terrain. It has since dimished a little, but since the steering still works fine, I haven't taken the time to look at it. My oil leak is of more concern to me.
#344 of 400 starts when cold not when warm
Feb 21, 2007 (10:16 pm)
I have a 98 chevy s10 with 83,000 miles on it. the problem is when i start it in the mornings when its cold, it turns over right away, when i try to turn it on when its warm it will crank for about 3 to 4 seconds and start up really rough.
I had a mechanic look at and he told me my fuel pump was bad so i changed that and now im out 500 bucks and no solution to my problem.
Also after it starts up warm and i turn it off then on again right away it will start up fast, but if i let it sit for a couple minutes it wont start right away!
What is wrong with my truck?
#345 of 400 Re: starts when cold not when warm [seandumas]
Feb 22, 2007 (9:39 am)
A couple dumb thoughts -
- Vapor lock in the fuel lines? (Probably not if the pump is in the tank )
- or more possibly - Try lossening your gas cap - I'm wondering if you are getting a vacuum lok in the gas tank ...
#346 of 400 2001 4.3L 4x4 Sonoma Radiator Drain Plug Location?
Feb 22, 2007 (11:32 am)
Hey guys just wondering if anyone knew where to find the radiator drain plug as I am looking to flush my system. Thanks
#347 of 400 Re: 2001 4.3L 4x4 Sonoma Radiator Drain Plug Location? [dangles]
Jun 27, 2008 (3:16 pm)
Bottom corner of the raiator ... give me a sec and I'll run out to my truck and verify ...
I believe that it is on the passenger side lower corner?? I did go out and look (but with wet snow and such, I am NOT crawling under it to make sure. I couldn't tell from up top.
If all else fails and you can't find it, just pop the lower radiator hose. of course then all the water would come rushing out with little hope of containing it all.
#348 of 400 Re: 2001 4.3L 4x4 Sonoma Radiator Drain Plug Location? [thebigal]
Feb 22, 2007 (12:43 pm)
I have seem to found it on the bottom driverside corner of the rad, unfortunately it is very flush with the rad and difficult to get your hand into loosen it off. Has anyone every taken one off and have any suggestions? Thanks
#349 of 400 Re: 2001 4.3L 4x4 Sonoma Radiator Drain Plug Location? [dangles]
Feb 22, 2007 (4:40 pm)
I'm not sure on yours but alot of the newer GM's have a drain plug that turns only 1/2 a turn and pops loose. I use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and short extension. The plug itself has a 1/4 inch square indentation. Needless to say you can burn your hand if the engine has been running.
#350 of 400 Re: no power to fuel pump [ozzzy12002]
Mar 14, 2007 (7:26 am)
I had the sajme problem on an '83 VW GTI. Replaced the fuel pump relay and the problem went away. There was a certain temperature range that caused it to lose contact; above or below was fine.
#351 of 400 Re: 92 S-10 2WD 4.3Z door hinge [hoodlatch]
May 28, 2007 (7:27 pm)
After much procrastination, I finally replaced the hinge pin on my 92 S-10. It wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be. Preliminary thought was to replace the entire hinge. That is till I found out they are installed by being welded on. So I went with plan “b”, replace bushings and pin and keep old hinge.
I blocked up the bottom of the door with wood blocks to support everything while I drove out the old pin. Pops helped me with free advice, holding the droplight, and wiggling the door when needed. The replacement pin and bushing fit perfectly.
The tricky part was getting the spring back in. It would be faster if I had use of a spring compressor but I didn’t feel like renting or buying one. What I did to overcome the lack of a spring compressor was to compress the spring in a vice, took a wrap through the spring with stainless steel wire, and used needle nose pliers to twist the wire tight. That held the spring compressed enough that I could use a screwdriver to get the spring poked back in where it belongs. After that I used a pair of dikes to cut the wire loose and wha-lah, job done.
I was happy to see how well it all went. No skinned knuckles, pinched fingers, cursing, or throwing objects. Now my door opens closes like it should with out a hitch.
We’ll probably do Dad’s S-10 next. I think the total cost for parts (pin and bushing kit) was less than five bucks. Total time for Pops and I from start to finish was probably around 45 minutes to an hour. A technician that does this kind of work for a living could do the same job in half the time.