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Pickups Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Care & Maintenance
374 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 10:44 PM
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Replying to: mvolek (Jan 10, 2007 2:16 pm) Now ... I'm just sure that I'll have some disagreement with this post - so let's just say this is my "opinion" and others are welcome to disagree ... The metalurgy and heat treatment/de stress / tempering of any rotor can be an issue and cause for failure - but it is my opinion the rotor will fail ( warp ) within a certain period of time after initial installation/use / multiple heat / cooling cycles... (i.e. earlier than later after many many miles ...) . However, although rotors are possible to fail much later due to this defect - well into the life of the rotor - I beleive this is the exception and not the rule. Most (if not all) persons I have talked with that had warped rotors - always had had some recent work done - that included removal and re-installation of the wheels. So where am I going with this ?? Yup - the lug nuts. With the rotors now being weight (thickness) and cost reduced to the min. required thicknesses - not only is it usual that they cannot be re-faced - they are much more prone to warpage from over tightening the lug nuts. 6 months ago I had new tires installed (at a National Tire Chain) and I inquired how they tightened the lugs - for just this reason. They use a very low setting air torque guns - then hand tighten with a hand torque wrench. They said that, prior to this, they had numerous complaints on warped rotors - and to prevent claims back to them - changed their tigheneing process to include the hand torquing ... They originally thought that this would at least ensure they would not not be liable for the issues - but guess what - the complaints stopped as well ... Ok, Ok, this does not prove much - but It's my opinon ..
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Replying to: canufixit (Jan 11, 2007 7:26 am) 
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Replying to: texashippie (Dec 21, 2006 6:52 pm) I replaced the engine in my kids car a couple of months ago with a rebuilt long block. It came with a 36month/36k mile warranty. The car is a 95 2.2.L but the block would fit many years. Good luck
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Replying to: texashippie (Dec 21, 2006 6:52 pm) I had an old 82 Full size Chevy truck that had the motor blow. It had a 350 in it (what the 4.3 is based off of). We found a 77 350 from a Blaze that we were able to get cheap and figured we could just use some parts from the original 350. Come to find out the "original" wasn't really original, but to make a long story short by the time we were done, the "new" motor had a '77 block, 82 heads and '86 intake and carb. After rebuilding the carb (it had been run dry with a propane setup on top of it for 15 years.), it ran beautifully. So in answer to your question, I think that you should be able to use the older block and use your intake and throttle body. You might have to switch over the front engine cover - i.e. water pump and belt assemblies, if they are set up differently than the 91, but the basic core of the 85 4.3 is the same as the 91 4.3. |
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Replying to: hoodlatch (Jan 11, 2007 6:54 pm) I agree- 2 more cents worth (or is that 4 cents now ??).... Many years ago - When I was in Army Mechanic school - we were always taught to skip a lug / cross pattern tighten. But at the time it was to ensure that the wheel rear face was pulled flush to the drum. Some wheel center holes fit tightly over a circular boss of the Drum in the center - and may hang up if there is rust or other foreign matter int he opening. Also - the cross pattern was to to ensure that the the lugs get tighened evenly. First Tighten all lugs to bottom finger tight - then do the cross pattern twice - once lightly to snug and seat the full wheel - at least once more to tighten ... Also, The Drums had much more meat to them - I rarely heard of a warped drum - (but there ware out of round drums due to uneven wear of the shoes ...) It was common to snap lugs eother when removing - or tightening by hand .. |
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| How can I tell if my 2001 S10 has a heater control valve? Where would it be located? Thanks for any help you can give me. | |
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Replying to: orwoody (Dec 10, 2002 9:21 pm) -Corey
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Replying to: coreyaaa (Jan 29, 2007 4:54 pm) Pls read my sad story of: #1707 of 2018 Re: vibration [hoodlatch] by hoodlatch May 05, 2006 (7:18 pm) I don't know is it matches the problems your having but it might be worth checking into. Good luck 
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Replying to: hoodlatch (Jan 30, 2007 7:25 pm) |
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I had hoped that I would never have to pose this question, but here goes. I have developed an oil leak on my '01 S-10 4.3 2wd. 105K miles. Maintenance has been good - oil changes every 3K or so. Never more than 4K, and a lot of times less than 3K. But just recently I noticed oil underneath the truck. At first I thought it was a loose plug, but had it replaced at the last oil change. Filter is also tight. I pressure wshed the bottom of the engine to better able to tell where it is coming from and it appears to be coming from the rear of the motor between the motor and transmission. That seems to me to be the rear main seal? I don't seem to leak very much - about 1/3 of a quart in the last 1000 miles. So it's not a major problem, but I hate having oil drip becuase now I have to watch where I park for fear of leaving a nasy spot on someone's drive. I also switched to Mobile One on the last oil change, but I doubt that has anything to do with it. The reason I had the oil changed is I noticed oil collected on the bottom of the pan and since I was almost due anyway, took it in and made sure the plug was replaced. When I had first inspected it, that's where most of the oil was collected and so I surmised that's where my problem lay. But since changing the oil and cleaning the bottom of the engine, I still seem to be dripping. So now I am in quest of locating and hopefully repairing the leak with out too much hassel or expense.
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