Last post on Nov 15, 2011 at 3:42 AM
You are in the Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma
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Chevrolet S-10, GMC S-15, Truck
#328 of 398 Re: s10 ABS [bigrooky14]
Jan 11, 2007 (8:04 am)
Hi - try this ... Or search on the net for somehting similar. If the Sensors get dirty - or if the got moved during the Ball joint change - it will trigger the ABS ... this is part of a service notification - it may not be exactly what you have - but you can get the drift of the issue ...
Brakes - Low Speed (Below 5 MPH) ABS Activation
Bulletin No.: 02-05-25-006B
Date: January 05, 2006
Antilock Brake (ABS) Activation At Low Speeds (Clean Wheel Speed Sensor Mounting Surface)
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1995-1999 Chevrolet Silverado (Old Style)
1995-2000 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe (Old Style)
1995-2003 Chevrolet Astro Van, Blazer, S10
1995-1999 GMC Sierra (Old Style)
1995-2000 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL (Old Style)
1995-2001 GMC Envoy, Jimmy
1995-2003 GMC Safari Van, Sonoma
1995-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada
This bulletin is being revised to update the correction and warranty information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-05-25-006A (Section 05 - Brakes).
Some customers may comment on ABS activation at low speeds, usually below 8 km/h (5 mph). Upon investigation, the technician will find no DTCs set.
The cause of this condition may be an increased air gap between the wheel speed sensor and the hub reluctor ring due to rust and debris built up on the sensor mounting surface.
Measure AC voltage and clean wheel speed sensor mounting surfaces.
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
2. Disconnect both the front wheel speed sensor harness connectors.
3. Place a DVM across the terminals of each sensor connector.
4. Rotate the wheel with hand speed and measure the ACmV's. The reading should be at least 350 ACmV's.
5. If the reading is between 200 and 350 ACmV's, remove the wheel, caliper and rotor in order to gain access to the speed sensor.
6. Remove the wheel speed sensor and plug the hole to prevent debris from falling into the hub during service.
7. Clean the wheel speed sensor mounting surface using a wire brush, sand paper, emery cloth, ScotchBrite(TM) or other suitable material. Be sure to thoroughly clean the wheel speed sensor surface. There should be no rust or corrosion.
8. Check the sensor head to determine if it has been warped/distorted due to the corrosion build up or other causes. Check the mounting surface on the sensor head for flatness by placing it on the edge of a metal machinists scale or other suitable straight edge to measure the flatness. Check the sensor for flatness in multiple (minimum 3) positions/directions. If the sensor head is distorted, replace the sensor.
9. Apply (spray) two thin coats of the specified rust penetrating lubricant (corrosion inhibitor) to the complete sensor mounting surface on the bearing hub. Allow to dry for 3-5 minutes between coats. Use ONLY Rust Penetrating Lubricant, P/N 89022217 (Canadian P/N 89022218).
10. When the corrosion inhibitor is dry to the touch (about 10 minutes), apply a thin layer of bearing grease to the hub surface and sensor 0-ring prior to sensor installation. Use ONLY Wheel Bearing Lubricant, P/N 01051344 (Canadian P/N 993037).
11. Install either the original sensor or a new one in the hub and secure the sensor. Ensure that the sensor is seated flush against the hub.
12. Install the rotor, the caliper and the wheel.
13. Place the DVM across the sensor terminals and recheck the voltage while rotating the wheel by hand. The voltage should now read at least 350 ACmV's.
#329 of 398 Re: Brakes and Cross Drilled Rotors [mvolek]
Jan 11, 2007 (8:26 am)
Now ... I'm just sure that I'll have some disagreement with this post - so let's just say this is my "opinion" and others are welcome to disagree ...
The metalurgy and heat treatment/de stress / tempering of any rotor can be an issue and cause for failure - but it is my opinion the rotor will fail ( warp ) within a certain period of time after initial installation/use / multiple heat / cooling cycles... (i.e. earlier than later after many many miles ...) . However, although rotors are possible to fail much later due to this defect - well into the life of the rotor - I beleive this is the exception and not the rule. Most (if not all) persons I have talked with that had warped rotors - always had had some recent work done - that included removal and re-installation of the wheels.
So where am I going with this ?? Yup - the lug nuts. With the rotors now being weight (thickness) and cost reduced to the min. required thicknesses - not only is it usual that they cannot be re-faced - they are much more prone to warpage from over tightening the lug nuts.
6 months ago I had new tires installed (at a National Tire Chain) and I inquired how they tightened the lugs - for just this reason. They use a very low setting air torque guns - then hand tighten with a hand torque wrench. They said that, prior to this, they had numerous complaints on warped rotors - and to prevent claims back to them - changed their tigheneing process to include the hand torquing ... They originally thought that this would at least ensure they would not not be liable for the issues - but guess what - the complaints stopped as well ...
Ok, Ok, this does not prove much - but It's my opinon ..
#330 of 398 Re: Brakes and Cross Drilled Rotors [canufixit]
Jan 11, 2007 (7:54 pm)
That is a very good dissertation on the theory of warped rotors. I can't agree or disagree on the over tightening scenario. I just haven't given it much thought. All I know is that when they first started coming out with disk brakes back in the day, they said to use a cross pattern when tighten down the lugs and to go over the pattern a couple of times so as not to crank down too tight the first go around. I don't know if this procedure holds any credence but so far it's worked for me.
#331 of 398 Re: 4.3L Motor swap [texashippie]
Jan 11, 2007 (9:10 pm)
Just a thought. What if you went on line to a parts web site like AdvanceAutoparts or Autozone and looked up the part number for long blocks of both S-10s to see if same. Or, give'em a call. Its probably as you suggested, change over the intake and a few extremities and you'll be good to go.
I replaced the engine in my kids car a couple of months ago with a rebuilt long block. It came with a 36month/36k mile warranty. The car is a 95 2.2.L but the block would fit many years.
#332 of 398 Re: 4.3L Motor swap [texashippie]
Jun 27, 2008 (4:16 pm)
I'l throw in my 2 cents of what I think is possible based on the experience I had...
I had an old 82 Full size Chevy truck that had the motor blow. It had a 350 in it (what the 4.3 is based off of). We found a 77 350 from a Blaze that we were able to get cheap and figured we could just use some parts from the original 350. Come to find out the "original" wasn't really original, but to make a long story short by the time we were done, the "new" motor had a '77 block, 82 heads and '86 intake and carb. After rebuilding the carb (it had been run dry with a propane setup on top of it for 15 years.), it ran beautifully.
So in answer to your question, I think that you should be able to use the older block and use your intake and throttle body. You might have to switch over the front engine cover - i.e. water pump and belt assemblies, if they are set up differently than the 91, but the basic core of the 85 4.3 is the same as the 91 4.3.
#333 of 398 Re: Brakes and Cross Drilled Rotors [hoodlatch]
Jan 17, 2007 (10:05 am)
2 more cents worth (or is that 4 cents now ??)....
Many years ago - When I was in Army Mechanic school - we were always taught to skip a lug / cross pattern tighten. But at the time it was to ensure that the wheel rear face was pulled flush to the drum. Some wheel center holes fit tightly over a circular boss of the Drum in the center - and may hang up if there is rust or other foreign matter int he opening. Also - the cross pattern was to to ensure that the the lugs get tighened evenly. First Tighten all lugs to bottom finger tight - then do the cross pattern twice - once lightly to snug and seat the full wheel - at least once more to tighten ... Also, The Drums had much more meat to them - I rarely heard of a warped drum - (but there ware out of round drums due to uneven wear of the shoes ...) It was common to snap lugs eother when removing - or tightening by hand ..
#334 of 398 Heater control valve question
Jan 22, 2007 (10:34 pm)
How can I tell if my 2001 S10 has a heater control valve? Where would it be located? Thanks for any help you can give me.
#335 of 398 1995 2.2L Rough Drive around 20-25 and 50 MPH
Jan 29, 2007 (5:54 pm)
I bought my truck with about 80,000 miles on it and 7,000 miles later i still have the same problem... If i excellerate through second gear past about 23 MPH then the vibration is'nt as bad as if I shift with lower RPM's, then it feels like im coming in for landing on a plane, but it soon goes back to its normal slow self once i reach about 26 MPH. It does the same thing at about 47-50 MPH but not quite as bad. I have been told its the U-joints were bad but no luck with that. Maybe the crankshaft or some of the bearings have gone bad? If anyone has any clues to what might be wrong i would appreciate the advice. Thanks.
#336 of 398 Re: 1995 2.2L Rough Drive around 20-25 and 50 MPH [coreyaaa]
Jan 30, 2007 (8:25 pm)
Pls read my sad story of: #1707 of 2018 Re: vibration [hoodlatch] by hoodlatch May 05, 2006 (7:18 pm)
I don't know is it matches the problems your having but it might be worth checking into.
#337 of 398 Re: 1995 2.2L Rough Drive around 20-25 and 50 MPH [hoodlatch]
Feb 04, 2007 (2:28 pm)
I'm sorry you had to go through all that for something so small... I'm not for sure if the person before had replaced the catalytic converter or not but that's what im hoping for. Thanks