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Pickups Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Care & Maintenance
374 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 10:44 PM
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Replying to: canufixit (Nov 20, 2006 9:14 am) Was the vehicle like this when purchased - or did something change ?? If it did not do this originally - perhaps some joker put something in your Gas tank - I'm thinking stuffing in a small Barggie or larger garbage bag ??? This bag will fill with Air / Liquid - may block the vent (May cause the car to stall as well) - and - since liquids cannot compress - the internal trapped bag air will be able to be compress and cause the tank to pressureize and then squirt back under pressure ??? Again - just trying to brainstorm here .... |
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Hi thebigal !! re: Past problem you had ... I saw this and thought you might be interested ... http://auto.consumerguide.com/Auto/Used/reviews/full/index.cfm/id/2247/act/usedc- arreviewshowall/ Air conditioner: The HVAC system mode switch gets stuck in the vent position as oil gets into the control head as a result of a leaking vacuum switch on the transfer case and a redesigned switch is available. (2001-03)
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I posted this in underhood/ engine section, after 3 days started to wonder if anyone else was looking their. I hope that someone out there can help me with this problem! Hi, Does anyone here know if I can put an older 4.3 in my 91 GMC Sonoma. I need to replace my motor. I found a 4.3 L out of an 85 that has been rebuilt, just not sure if it will work. It seems like any 4.3 L should work, if I just used the long block. With my intake and throttle body. I'm new to this truck so not sure what will work. Any help will be appreciated.
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Replying to: canufixit (Nov 22, 2006 10:44 am) 
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Okay - quick general brake question. Next time I do the brakes on my truck I will have to replace the rotors. They should have already been replaced because when I last changed the pads and took the rotors down to be turned the guy told me he shouldn't turn them because the would be past the limit which is allowed. He said he would do it anyway, but the rotors would be prone to warping because of heat and so on. I understood his point and I know that you can only turn rotors so much and so on. I was grateful he did turn them because my finances really only allowed that. The pads were replaced under warranty and I didn't have the hundred bucks to shell out for rotors at the time. All I needed was for the rotors to last until I could afford to replaced them, so whether he was supposed to turn them or not, I was grateful he did. As of right now they still seem to work fine - although I have only put about 1000 miles on them since the change, but now I am looking to replaced them anyway's. My question is this - is there any benefit to cross drilled rotors? What's the difference between cross drilled and OEM??? I have found that cost doesn't vary very much and is there a benefit or is it just marketing hype and would I really be able to tell a difference - especially on an S-10?
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Replying to: the_big_al (Jun 27, 2008 3:16 pm) Sorry for the late reply - I'm been busy- and besides, not much is going on in this B board since they re-structured ... My thoughts - and I did do a little research on the web as well ... First - There are just some things I'll not mess with - and right up there at the tp of the list is the braking system. So I'd buy approved parts from a reputible source .. The Consequences / cost is just not worth the possible outcome here .. With that said.... What I found on the web was that there is a balance between the amount of value on heat loss improvement (via the vent holes) and the available surface foriction loss (from the missing material from the holes). I also read that the venting is sometimes only helpful on hot brakes to prevent brake fade. However this must be balanced with the loss of surface friction area during "normal" non- long breaking needs. If I had a auto I wanted to customize and I was the only passemger - then I might decide to experiment and see the results - but why else?? I'd get, factory or reputable aftermarket or Recycled disks (re machined) - that are designed for the vehicle - and if they happend to have the vents - then it's assumed that the mfg has OK'd the vented style for your vehicle. Canu
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Hey everyone, it's been a while since I have been on this forum, glad to see its still running strong. I just have a quick question that someone can help me with, maybe spare me from spending 70 bucks at Midas. A few months back, I had an upper ball joint (passenger side) give out pretty violently. I went ahead and replaced both upper joints within a few weeks. The first time I took it back out though, my brakes weren't acting right. Every time I applied the brake, my ABS kicked in, and started jolting. It's like when you brake hard on some snow, the lights dim and flicker, the whole bit. Then randomly, my ABS will disengage completely, and the ABS light comes on the dash. It's actually safer with the ABS completely off, because then my brakes are more managable. I'm assuming that maybe an ABS sensor got messed up when the ball joint gave out? If anyone knows what exaclty is going on, please help me out. 
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Replying to: the_big_al (Jun 27, 2008 3:16 pm)
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Replying to: canufixit (Jan 10, 2007 11:59 am) But since it is only an S-10 (anything over 90 is scary. The whole front end just floats), than I don't really see a reason/need for any more than the standard OEM replacement. Thanks for the info... I think for my purposes I'll stick with the OEM. Maybe in the future if I ever get around to dropping an LS-1 into the truck, than maybe along with the enging upgrade, I'll do some other upgrades as well to make it worthy of handling that LS-1. That would probably include the suspension and brakes. And at that point I would be the only one driving it.
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Replying to: bigrooky14 (Jan 10, 2007 1:09 pm) ============== Brakes - Low Speed (Below 5 MPH) ABS Activation Bulletin No.: 02-05-25-006B Date: January 05, 2006 TECHNICAL Subject: Antilock Brake (ABS) Activation At Low Speeds (Clean Wheel Speed Sensor Mounting Surface) Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-1999 Chevrolet Silverado (Old Style) 1995-2000 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe (Old Style) 1995-2003 Chevrolet Astro Van, Blazer, S10 1995-1999 GMC Sierra (Old Style) 1995-2000 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL (Old Style) 1995-2001 GMC Envoy, Jimmy 1995-2003 GMC Safari Van, Sonoma 1995-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the correction and warranty information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-05-25-006A (Section 05 - Brakes). Condition Some customers may comment on ABS activation at low speeds, usually below 8 km/h (5 mph). Upon investigation, the technician will find no DTCs set. Cause The cause of this condition may be an increased air gap between the wheel speed sensor and the hub reluctor ring due to rust and debris built up on the sensor mounting surface. Correction Measure AC voltage and clean wheel speed sensor mounting surfaces. 1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. 2. Disconnect both the front wheel speed sensor harness connectors. 3. Place a DVM across the terminals of each sensor connector. 4. Rotate the wheel with hand speed and measure the ACmV's. The reading should be at least 350 ACmV's. 5. If the reading is between 200 and 350 ACmV's, remove the wheel, caliper and rotor in order to gain access to the speed sensor. 6. Remove the wheel speed sensor and plug the hole to prevent debris from falling into the hub during service. 7. Clean the wheel speed sensor mounting surface using a wire brush, sand paper, emery cloth, ScotchBrite(TM) or other suitable material. Be sure to thoroughly clean the wheel speed sensor surface. There should be no rust or corrosion. 8. Check the sensor head to determine if it has been warped/distorted due to the corrosion build up or other causes. Check the mounting surface on the sensor head for flatness by placing it on the edge of a metal machinists scale or other suitable straight edge to measure the flatness. Check the sensor for flatness in multiple (minimum 3) positions/directions. If the sensor head is distorted, replace the sensor. 9. Apply (spray) two thin coats of the specified rust penetrating lubricant (corrosion inhibitor) to the complete sensor mounting surface on the bearing hub. Allow to dry for 3-5 minutes between coats. Use ONLY Rust Penetrating Lubricant, P/N 89022217 (Canadian P/N 89022218). 10. When the corrosion inhibitor is dry to the touch (about 10 minutes), apply a thin layer of bearing grease to the hub surface and sensor 0-ring prior to sensor installation. Use ONLY Wheel Bearing Lubricant, P/N 01051344 (Canadian P/N 993037). 11. Install either the original sensor or a new one in the hub and secure the sensor. Ensure that the sensor is seated flush against the hub. 12. Install the rotor, the caliper and the wheel. 13. Place the DVM across the sensor terminals and recheck the voltage while rotating the wheel by hand. The voltage should now read at least 350 ACmV's. |
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