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Pickups Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Care & Maintenance
374 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 10:44 PM
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Replying to: hoodlatch (Nov 16, 2006 5:14 pm) Canufixit |
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Replying to: jlflick (Nov 15, 2006 6:04 pm) The Injector (prefferably) and/or connector "should" be designed to prevent this - so I'd first look for this as root cause ... For a reason why it is getting into the computer "after" it get by the connector - I had a thought. Either Pressure in the cable from the ejector - or - If the Computer is well sealed - the air inside will expand and contract with temp difference as it heats/cools - and if it does not have a vent ?? capable of letting air in/out (with not water/ dirt) to equalize the pressure - it might just be using the cable on it's end to do this... So when the air expands in the Computer case - it pushes out the cable - when it contract - the vacuum sucks on the cable and pulls the gas up ?? Fixing the injector connector/leak, to me, is the root cause here - but posssibly adding in a vent in the cable casing may be a possible work around - BUT BE CAREFUL if the gas is actually getting into the cable (pressure from the Injector side cable leak?) - then gas will, in instead of going in to the Computer case, go into the cable and squirt out - FIRE HAZARD .... Remember the injector inside is high pressure !! To me this should be root caused and the NTSB be notified .. I suggest you visit a dealer with your results to date (if they were not in the loop) - this should at least free you from any liability should you see the vehicle .. Canufixit. |
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Replying to: movelli (Oct 24, 2006 11:38 am) So I'm wondering if the "shape" of the tank is incorrect and it does nothave the required pocket of air - and/or the fuel during fill is splashing in the tank into this in tank hose opening - and triggering the fuel autoshut off ... Also - The tank should Vent (I assume using the same hose??) to allow the air to escape when fueling ... perhaps the vent is too small - or blocked - so you pressurize the tank until it reaches a certain point - then Burps back the gas ??? If there is a "Kit" it must be known to a dealer ??? I'd visit a dealer - tell them you have a possibel fire hazard -and ask them to give it a check and give you a statement on your recipt that says it OK. (as they probably will not whant to do if the issue is real..) But this gets GM in the loop for liability ... Fuel issues should be at least reported to the NTSB if it cannot be resolved ... Please advise what happens here .... Canufixit...
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Replying to: canufixit (Nov 20, 2006 9:14 am) Was the vehicle like this when purchased - or did something change ?? If it did not do this originally - perhaps some joker put something in your Gas tank - I'm thinking stuffing in a small Barggie or larger garbage bag ??? This bag will fill with Air / Liquid - may block the vent (May cause the car to stall as well) - and - since liquids cannot compress - the internal trapped bag air will be able to be compress and cause the tank to pressureize and then squirt back under pressure ??? Again - just trying to brainstorm here .... |
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Hi thebigal !! re: Past problem you had ... I saw this and thought you might be interested ... http://auto.consumerguide.com/Auto/Used/reviews/full/index.cfm/id/2247/act/usedc- arreviewshowall/ Air conditioner: The HVAC system mode switch gets stuck in the vent position as oil gets into the control head as a result of a leaking vacuum switch on the transfer case and a redesigned switch is available. (2001-03)
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I posted this in underhood/ engine section, after 3 days started to wonder if anyone else was looking their. I hope that someone out there can help me with this problem! Hi, Does anyone here know if I can put an older 4.3 in my 91 GMC Sonoma. I need to replace my motor. I found a 4.3 L out of an 85 that has been rebuilt, just not sure if it will work. It seems like any 4.3 L should work, if I just used the long block. With my intake and throttle body. I'm new to this truck so not sure what will work. Any help will be appreciated.
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Replying to: canufixit (Nov 22, 2006 10:44 am) 
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Okay - quick general brake question. Next time I do the brakes on my truck I will have to replace the rotors. They should have already been replaced because when I last changed the pads and took the rotors down to be turned the guy told me he shouldn't turn them because the would be past the limit which is allowed. He said he would do it anyway, but the rotors would be prone to warping because of heat and so on. I understood his point and I know that you can only turn rotors so much and so on. I was grateful he did turn them because my finances really only allowed that. The pads were replaced under warranty and I didn't have the hundred bucks to shell out for rotors at the time. All I needed was for the rotors to last until I could afford to replaced them, so whether he was supposed to turn them or not, I was grateful he did. As of right now they still seem to work fine - although I have only put about 1000 miles on them since the change, but now I am looking to replaced them anyway's. My question is this - is there any benefit to cross drilled rotors? What's the difference between cross drilled and OEM??? I have found that cost doesn't vary very much and is there a benefit or is it just marketing hype and would I really be able to tell a difference - especially on an S-10?
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Replying to: the_big_al (Jun 27, 2008 3:16 pm) Sorry for the late reply - I'm been busy- and besides, not much is going on in this B board since they re-structured ... My thoughts - and I did do a little research on the web as well ... First - There are just some things I'll not mess with - and right up there at the tp of the list is the braking system. So I'd buy approved parts from a reputible source .. The Consequences / cost is just not worth the possible outcome here .. With that said.... What I found on the web was that there is a balance between the amount of value on heat loss improvement (via the vent holes) and the available surface foriction loss (from the missing material from the holes). I also read that the venting is sometimes only helpful on hot brakes to prevent brake fade. However this must be balanced with the loss of surface friction area during "normal" non- long breaking needs. If I had a auto I wanted to customize and I was the only passemger - then I might decide to experiment and see the results - but why else?? I'd get, factory or reputable aftermarket or Recycled disks (re machined) - that are designed for the vehicle - and if they happend to have the vents - then it's assumed that the mfg has OK'd the vented style for your vehicle. Canu
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Hey everyone, it's been a while since I have been on this forum, glad to see its still running strong. I just have a quick question that someone can help me with, maybe spare me from spending 70 bucks at Midas. A few months back, I had an upper ball joint (passenger side) give out pretty violently. I went ahead and replaced both upper joints within a few weeks. The first time I took it back out though, my brakes weren't acting right. Every time I applied the brake, my ABS kicked in, and started jolting. It's like when you brake hard on some snow, the lights dim and flicker, the whole bit. Then randomly, my ABS will disengage completely, and the ABS light comes on the dash. It's actually safer with the ABS completely off, because then my brakes are more managable. I'm assuming that maybe an ABS sensor got messed up when the ball joint gave out? If anyone knows what exaclty is going on, please help me out. 
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