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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Care & Maintenance

398 messages,  Last post on Nov 15, 2011 at 3:42 AM

You are in the Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma Forum.

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet S-10, GMC S-15, Truck

Messages Page 16 of 41

#144 of 398 Electrical Noise on AM Radio... Any ideas? by taugust04

Aug 14, 2005 (9:26 pm)

I have a 1994 Chevy S-10 Pickup LS/2x4/Auto/4.3 V6/77,000 mi. The vortec V6 has a carb. rather than fuel injection. The problem I am having is a large field of electrical noise emanating from the engine into the cab, totally disrupting my AM radio reception (and not allowing me to listen to the Pats & Red Sox during my long trips in to work!). This interference occurred with both the factory radio and the brand new Pioneer deck I had installed. I also tried installing an antenna isolator between the antenna and the deck, but no luck. This is not alternator whine, but full fledged interference. It only occurs on the AM band, not on FM or when listening to CD's. This interference only occurs while the car is running. Not only does the truck's installed radio receive this interference, but a portable radio I brought into the cab also has the same problem. I moved the portable radio around the car and under the hood to see where the most noise is coming from and it seems to be centered in the distributor/engine block area. My question to everyone is what would be causing this, and what would be a solution? The engine itself runs great, so I am hesitant to mess around with it too much. Would a full tune-up/wire & spark plug replacement remedy the situation? Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks in advance for your help.

#145 of 398 Re: Rough idle and gas smell from '95 S10 Blazer [shadowhawk_70] by pitstop_160

Aug 15, 2005 (11:41 am)

Replying to: shadowhawk_70 (Aug 11, 2005 11:32 pm)
My '93 had similar symptoms....rough idle at low speed or when stopped (wanted to quit), loss of braking ability and foul exhaust smell. Check engine light would come on. BUT it seemed to run alright on the highway.
Problem was a carbon chunk lodged beneath the pin in the EGR valve.
Happened first time on vacation so I paid too much to have the problem fixed. Next time I did it myself...then again, and again, and again. Finally found a permanent fix via internet forum. Bought a $5 gasket with a built in screen. Not a single problem since. Catches the larger carbon particles before they can enter the valve. If loose carbon buildup is your problem, a new EGR valve won't fix it.
Check out this site http://www.tomco-inc.com/
You can buy at local auto parts stores, too. Tomco should be able to give you local retailers who carry it.
Hope this may help.

#146 of 398 Re: EGR Valve [paulcha] by teresa5

Aug 16, 2005 (1:14 pm)

Replying to: paulcha (Jul 02, 2005 5:32 pm)
Mine stuck many times, we have had it replaced like 12 or 13 times since we've had it. This last time it stuck open, the service engine light started blinking, and now we are looking for a motor, it leaked gas in the crankshaft. Let me tell you, if it is the side mounted spark plugs, there was to types of motors made that year, you can not find one anywhere. They told me to use the reg. gas, not the upper grade, and it helped my problem. Have you had any problems with the tranmission? We just put a new one it ours before the motor went.......

#147 of 398 1995 Motor needed by teresa5

Aug 16, 2005 (1:19 pm)

Does anyone out there know of anywhere we can get a motor for our 1995 Chevy Blazer 4X4 4.3 it is the one that has the side mounted spark plugs? In need of one bad...Or know of anyone wanting a blazer? Excellent shape, just had the transmission, or a new one put in, almost two weeks before my egv valve stuck open and leaked oil in my crankshaft. Has to be the side mounted spark plug motor...Thanks

#148 of 398 by bbessler1

Aug 18, 2005 (11:50 am)

I am trying to replace the turnsignal switch on my blazer. The multi-function lever remains in the down position as if you were making a left turn. The lever will not stay in the neutral nor the right turn position. No clicking sound as you move it and blinkers do not work but the hi/lo beam and wiper switches work. My chilton manual gives two sets of instructions for replacing the turnsignal switch along with some illustrations. One set is for 1983 through 1991 and the other is for 1992-1993. Both sets say to disconnect the neg battery terminal, matchmark and remove the steering wheel. It is after doing this i begin to have the problem. For 83-91 the manual says "insert a small prytool into the slots between the steering shaft lock plate cover and the steering column housing, then pry upward to remove the cover from the lock plate." for 92-93 the manual just says "Remove the shaft lock cover." I assumed you're to pry it up. Using screw drivers I tried to do just that to what i believe to be the lock plate cover but to no avail. The illustration in the manual of the column with the steering wheel removed doesn't look anything like my column. This prying caused marks in the vinyl column housing. Then in frustration i used the compressor tool to push down the shaft lock plate and remove the snapring and then slowly removed the tool(thinking the plate and the cover would come off together). The plate came up but stopped when it came against what I'm calling the cover. I’ve posted pics & instructions out on a web site. Take a look.
93Blazer001,005,006 are pics of my column.
 
ReadmePg1 is my 2 cents.
 
HowTopg1 & Pg2 is chiltons instructions.
 
Thanks
 
Bill
 
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a307/bilb/93Blazer001.jpg
 
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a307/bilb/93Blazer005.jpg
 
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a307/bilb/93Blazer006.jpg
 
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a307/bilb/ReadmePg1.jpg
 
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a307/bilb/HowToPg1.jpg
 
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a307/bilb/HowToPg2.jpg

#149 of 398 Wouldn't start by evillittlemous

Aug 18, 2005 (1:12 pm)

I have a 86 Chevy s10 V6 Pickup. This morning I went to start it and it just clicked. Power came on and all that but it wouldn't turn over. After about five minutes of trying it sounded like it pushed its self to turn over. Almost a grinding sound but not? Any ideas of what could be wrong?

#150 of 398 ignition actuator in steering column by hewybo

Aug 18, 2005 (3:14 pm)

the little pot metal slider that actuates the on/start rod broke. I can jerry-rig to use for now, but how do I get inside the plastic sleeve around the column? How do I remove the collar to which the shift lever (auto) is attached? Do I have to find the entire steering column? If so, where? Oh- it's a 1985 S10, 2.8L 4X4,AT,AC Sport . HELP!!

#151 of 398 HOW TO WIRE THE STARTER ON MY 95 S10 Blazer 4.3L Vin-W by visigoth

Aug 24, 2005 (11:47 pm)

Can anyone tell me which wires get connected to the starter on a 1995 S10 Blazer 4.3L Vin-W Engine.
I replaced the engine and I forgot to label a couple of wires as well as the posts on the starter itself.
Essentially, I have a total of three wires that can possibly go to the starter and though I have some idea where these probably go, it would be a great help to have some certainty of their position.
First of all there are two wires that originate from the battery's positive lead. One of the wires is thick, it is colored black and its end terminal fits a 5/16" stud. The stated terminal end has a bent prong. I am pretty sure that this wire goes to the starter and fits on the 5/16" stud facing towards the wheel well with the slotted base base (to accomodate the bent prong). The other wire originates at the same place, is red and not as thick with a 5/16" round terminal connection. Where the hell does this one go?
Also, there is a green wire with a black plastic corrugated jacket that originates from the same wiring bundle (behind where the radiator hose goes behind the alternator) that the wires to the EGR, IAT, Throttle Position Sensor, MAP Sensor etc... originate. This wire has a small round connector at the terminal end which seems to fit an 1/8" stud and seems to run down the front of the engine on the timing chain cover and come out where the crankcase position sensor is located. I would think this wire goes to the small 1/8" stud on the starter?
It would really make my day if anyone can tell me how the starter gets connected or can send me a picture of a correctly connected starter for this motor. Or can tell me where the stated wires get connected.
Thanks,
Visigoth

#152 of 398 Re: Engine oil in Radiator [fixit007] by blazerblues

Aug 26, 2005 (7:59 am)

Replying to: fixit007 (Aug 08, 2005 10:18 am)
I recently changed the radiator on my 90 S-10 Blazer and now I have oil settling on the top of the antifreeze. Could this mean I need to change the water pump now or what. I also have a lot of white smoke coming out of the tail pipe now. Please help!

#153 of 398 Re: Blazer model 1996, V-6, Automatic [77vette] by blazerblues

Aug 26, 2005 (8:07 am)

Replying to: 77vette (Jul 29, 2005 1:30 pm)
I am having similar problems with my 90 S-10 Blazer, I've changed the radiator because it had a bad leak and now I have oil in it. Should I change the water pump? I also have white smoke coming out the tail pipe. Does anyone know what is causing that and how to stop it.

Messages Page 16 of 41

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