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#5058 of 5325 Re: Bill from safeco after canceling insurance. [rustum]
Jun 06, 2012 (5:46 pm)
that's what I thought. Your Safeco insurance expired on 4/11 at 12:01am, you told your agent to write you with a different company on 4/12. If he just let your Safeco policy expire and wrote you with Geico on 4/12 you would really not have had any coverage on 4/11. So ... he let the Safeco policy renew and run for one day and then started a Geico policy as you requested on 4/12.
Based on what you requested, it sounds like the transaction was completed correctly.
#5059 of 5325 Re: Bill from safeco after canceling insurance. [lilyowen]
by Stever@Edmunds HOST
Jun 06, 2012 (6:32 pm)
If I called up my agent and told him my coverage expired 4/11 and I wanted a new company to kick in on 4/12, I'd expect the agent to find out the actual expiration and write it up so there was no gap in coverage. That's always happened before - they ask. Seems pretty basic.
Guess that's why I've only had a couple of agents in the last 30 years, preferring to do it myself. I currently have a "local" agent since our move to Michigan because he beat any of the auto rates that I found by phone and online. And after we got insured and got a quote, we got a bill for about 2/3rds of what the quote was. The agent assured us that the bill was correct.
Naturally a corrected bill arrived a month later in the full amount. Not the sharpest tack if you know what I mean.
The bill on my current policy just says the policy is good through such and such a date. The actual time it expires is on the renewal declarations page, in a smaller font. Makes you wonder why the regulators permit the fine print, much less allow the confusing language, since the end of the day is not 12:01 am on the same day. That's the start of the day.
Not only that but I'm in Eastern time and my policy is written in Central time.
#5060 of 5325 Getting insurance to pay
Jul 20, 2012 (8:34 am)
Well it happened to me... I was stopped at a red light when a guy talking on his cell phone somehow missed seeing me and hit me at 45MPH. My 2012 F150 that i've had maybe 6 months has a bent frame all the bed components are trashed, bumper and all it's compenents are destroyed, Bed was pushed into the cab of the truck and put some damage there, though the bed doesn't touch the cab now, so I'm guessing the frame flexed from the hit.
The body shop wants to section out the rear third of the frame and weld in a new part and replace all the other components, and repaint, ect.
Seeing as how the truck will be reported as having frame damage, is there any way in TX to push the insurance company to total the truck?
If I can't get it totaled, how much in diminished value should i push for on a 6 month old truck with 6,000 miles that was in showroom condition before the accident? It's a 2012 F150 XLT Supercrew 5.0 v8 with electronic locking Diff, power, chrome, and towing package.
The body shop guy that looked at it said the frame section is $2000 plus 10 hours of labor just to install that piece. He said it doesn't include the labor to remove everything to get to it. Then add in the costs of all the other parts that will need to be replaced and repainted. He just guessed that it's going to be around $12k but without a full inspection, it's just a guess. How much value is this going to loose having a frame section replaced, and then having half the truck getting repainted, and we all know resprays are almost never as good as factory.
#5061 of 5325 Re: Getting insurance to pay [mr_scott1]
Jul 20, 2012 (9:49 am)
I'm really not sure how diminished value works. Seems I've heard that getting paid on diminished value is near impossible.
No way they are going to total it for $12k. It certainly isn't a cheap truck.
How much less will it be worth? Well, that is typically dependent on the value. When the truck is worth $30k, it might affect it by 10%-15%. When its worth $20k, it might hurt it by 20%. Its all relative, and I don't know if anyone could have a definitive answer on it.
Some people like to think previous damage doesn't devalue a vehicle if repaired right, but they'd be wrong. As long as it shows on carfax, it is definitely not worth what a clean one is. The trick then becomes: how low do you have to go to get someone to buy it instead of the clean one?
#5062 of 5325 Re: Getting insurance to pay [mr_scott1]
Jul 20, 2012 (10:28 am)
>How much value is this going to loose having a frame section replaced, and then having half the truck getting repainted,
a friend with a couple year old Ford pickup tried to trade it in at the Ford dealership where he bought it new. They wouldn't take it because it showed an accident with damage to the rear painted bumper on CarFax. This was a parking lot accident with damage to the other car at fault and superficial damage on the clearcoat on the white bumper on the truck. So in his case diminished value was quite a bit.
#5063 of 5325 Re: Getting insurance to pay [mr_scott1]
Jul 20, 2012 (8:16 pm)
Inform the adverse insurance company you are willing to accept a brand new replacement truck equipped as yours was/ is & you would be willing to sign a non injury statement. A non injury statement can be worth up to $10,000 in order to settle the Bodily Injury Liabilility potential claim.
If the above isn't acceptable, then be willing to accept a replacement truck and the most you will contribute to that would be $3,000 due to usage you have had.
Aug 16, 2012 (4:30 pm)
I'm a little confused about Salvage Titles. From everything I've read, a car needs to have damage amounting to more than around 70% of its value in order to be considered a Salvage vehicle. So how is it that I constantly come across ads that say things like "This vehicle has a salvage title due to a minor hit on the front bumper"? Clearly, a minor hit on an $8000 car's bumper is not going to cost anywhere near $5600 to fix. Are sellers like these just lying through their teeth and/or hoping buyers are complete idiots? Or is there a legitimate way a vehicle with minor damage might get a salvage certificate?