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Hyundai Tiburon

669 messages,  Last post on Oct 26, 2011 at 2:38 AM

You are in the Hyundai Tiburon Forum.

What is this discussion about? Hyundai Tiburon, Coupe, Hatchback

Messages Page 54 of 67

#529 of 669 Re: 1999 Tiburon Car Alam problem [wally04] by 5port

Dec 16, 2005 (6:55 am)

Replying to: wally04 (Dec 14, 2005 10:14 am)
When you jumped the car you probably damaged the ECM (Electronic Control Module). If you didnt jump it correctly (polarity) that could cause damage. The dealer would probably swap out the ECM, verify its fixed and charge you for a new ECM. You could also find one used for a few hundred dollars. Here is the troubleshooting procedure from the Hyundai Webtech site. At the very bottom in the alarm section they refer to the ETACS module. Its this module that controls most of the functions:
 
SERVICE MANUAL
  Applies to: Tiburon 1998-2000
GROUP
Body Electrical System General
 
TROUBLESHOOTING
 
ALARM
Symptom
 Possible cause
 Remedy
  
The system is not armed
(The siren doesn't sound)
 Transmitter faulty
 Replace the transmitter
  
 
 Receiver faulty
 Replace the receiver
  
 
 Damaged or disconnected wiring of door switch input circuit
 Repair the harness
  
 
 ETACS module faulty
 Replace the ETACS module
  
The siren sounds in error when a door or trunk lid is unlocked by using the key while the system is armed
 Damaged or disconnected wiring of a door key cylinder and trunk lid key cylinder switch input circuit
 Repair the harness or replace a door key cylinder and the trunk lid key cylinder switch
  
 
 ETACS module faulty
 Replace the ETACS module
  
Engine does not start in disarm state
 Burglar alarm relay faulty
 Replace the burglar alarm relay
  
 
 Damage or disconnected wiring of burglar alarm relay activation circuit
 Repair the harness
  
 
 Malfunction of the ETACS module
 Replace the ETACS module
  
There is no alarm when, as an alarm test, a door is opened without using the key
(The arming and disarming are normal, and the alarm is activated when the trunk lid or hood is opened.)
 Damaged or disconnected wiring of door switch (all doors) input circuit
 Repair the harness or replace the door switch
  
 
 Malfunction of the door switch
  
  
 
 Malfunction of the ETACS module
 Replace the ETACS module
  
There is no alarm when, as an alarm test, the trunk lid is opened without using the key.
(The alarm is activated, however, by opening a door or the hood)
 Damaged or disconnected wiring of luggage compartment light switch input circuit
 Repair the harness or replace the luggage compartment light switch
  
 
 Malfunction of the luggage compartment light switch
  
  
 
 Malfunction of the ETACS module
 Replace the ETACS module
  
There is no alarm when, as an alarm test the hood is opened from within the vehicle
(The alarm is activated, however, by opening a door or the lid)
 Damaged or disconnected wiring of hood switch input circuit
 Repair the harness or replace the hood switch
  
 
 Malfunction of the hood switch
  
  
 
 Malfunction of the ETACS module
 Replace the ETACS module
  
 
  
  
 
           
           
           
 

#530 of 669 2003 Clutch problems by marsansin

Dec 21, 2005 (8:32 am)

I also have been driving a stick for many years and the clutch went out on my 2003 Tibby V6 after 33000 miles (just under 3 years). I searched the forum (thanks to everyone who put out their messages) and found the info about the TSB that dealt with the clutch. Armed with that, I went to the dealership. First they said it was not covered showing the warantee info. But, after discussing the matter, the dealership decided to replace the clutch UNDER THE TSB at no charge. I'd suggest to anyone still under 36K miles/3 years to try and use the TSB as leverage.

#531 of 669 Re: Clutch Problem? [ai3xskc] by c86bubbles

Jan 07, 2006 (8:21 pm)

Replying to: ai3xskc (Dec 11, 2005 9:55 am)
I am wondering if there is problems with the clutches in all the newer models, I have a 2004 Tiburon and it only has about 28,000 miles on it and the clutch is now having to be replaced. there is a year warranty on it and I missed it by 2 weeks. I also have a 2000 Tiburon and haven't had any problems with the clutch, but I do have a problem with the break light always staying on, looks like I am always riding the breaks when I am not. does any one know what could be causing this? we thought it was the thing on the foot peddle but we moved that and found out that wasn't it, Please Help if anyone knows what could be causing this.
               Trish

#532 of 669 Re: 2003 Clutch problems [marsansin] by c86bubbles

Jan 07, 2006 (9:18 pm)

Replying to: marsansin (Dec 21, 2005 8:32 am)
Marsansin
I have a 2004 Tibby and it has 28,000 to 29,000 miles on it. also like you when we took the car to the dealership they said the warrantee ran out on it. I was wondering what is the TSB is and how can I get the dealers to replace my clutch under this TSB thing? please reply

#533 of 669 Re: Clutch Problem? [ai3xskc] by siinq8

Jan 30, 2006 (6:09 am)

Replying to: ai3xskc (Dec 11, 2005 9:55 am)
I have the same rattle from the trunk of my 2005 Coupe. It almost sounds as if I have a chicken in the trunk, and it's driving me mad!
 
I assumed it was the spare wheel, tools or jack rattling but even after removing those as well as unscrewing and removing the plastic lining from either side of the spare wheel well the noise remained. I also tried lodging some cloth into the gap between the tailgate and the opening to see if it was that but to now avail.
 
Before I rip the whole back end to pieces, has anyone had the same problem and managed to solve it yet?

#534 of 669 Rattle in Trunk of Coupe (Tiburon) by siinq8

Jan 30, 2006 (6:10 am)

Replying to: ai3xskc (Dec 11, 2005 9:55 am)
I have the same rattle from the trunk of my 2005 Coupe. It almost sounds as if I have a chicken in the trunk, and it's driving me mad!
 
I assumed it was the spare wheel, tools or jack rattling but even after removing those as well as unscrewing and removing the plastic lining from either side of the spare wheel well the noise remained. I also tried lodging some cloth into the gap between the tailgate and the opening to see if it was that but to now avail.
 
Before I rip the whole back end to pieces, has anyone had the same problem and managed to solve it yet?

#535 of 669 Re: Rattle in Trunk of Coupe (Tiburon) [siinq8] by carcrazy11

Jan 30, 2006 (11:53 am)

Replying to: siinq8 (Jan 30, 2006 6:10 am)
I have had a similar problem with my 01 honda prelude back in 2003. I assume those kinds of problems come from the fact that "sporty coupe" has a significantly rigid body. The rigid body tends to transfer more forces caused by "road imperfections" to the "weak components" inside the cabin.
 
I have some suggestions :
 
First: if you suspect the rattles are comming from the trunk lid rubber seal, then drive your car with the trunk partially open. In order to check clearly, you have to drive at night in a quiet place. If the rattles disappear, you can adjust the height of "trunk lid rubber fastener(stopper)" in order to secure the closing of the lid.
It looks like a rubber cylinder with 1/2" dia. Two of them are located in right and left ends of trunk. You may put a thin layer of silicon grease(a few bucks at autozone) around the rubber lid, not the rubber fastener.
 
Second, if you think the rattle comes from somewhere else, I probably search the sunroof first. This was my case. First, I thought that the rattling sounds came from the rear end. Later I figured out that the sunroof and its operating machanism were the culprits. If you drive hard or drive in a rough road condition, your car will endure a tremendous amount of stress; which leads to deformation of the weakest part of chassis. If you see some uneven gap between the sunroof rubber seals and the roof opening, this is the indication that you need to see the sunroof.
 
After opening the inner roof penel, you see the power sunroof mechanism. It weights more than 50lbs in my case. In a quiet environment, by twisting each part individually, you can point out the culprit. In my case, the dual steel tubes and its rubber seals(which attach to the drainage) were rubbing each other. The rubber seals were already deformed so that they caused sequeaking sounds whenever I twisted the dual steal tubes.
 
Finally, the tire pressure is very important. If a tire pressure is set too high, the car body tends to twist more because your tires tend to absorb less road imperfections.
The best way to measure tire pressure is as follows:
1. buy a dial tire pressure gauge with pressure release button and a portable tire pump. I bought them for less than 20 bucks at walmart 2 or so years ago.
 
2. measure tire pressue in the morning before driving.
   inflate or deflate according to the manufacture recommendation. The recommended tire pressure should be re calibrated according to the ambient temperature. If your manufacture recommended tire pressure is 32psi and the ambient temperature is 70 degree, you can put 32psi. If the ambient temp drops down to 60, put 31psi. If 50F, put 30psi. After driving a while, you will see the tire pressure increases by upto 4-5 psi. You can feel the point that the chassis can't deal with too high tire pressure. High tire pressure is good for your mpg but bad for your chassis rigidity.

#536 of 669 Re: Rattle in Trunk of Coupe (Tiburon) [siinq8] by carcrazy11

Jan 30, 2006 (12:01 pm)

Replying to: siinq8 (Jan 30, 2006 6:10 am)
I have had a similar problem with my 01 honda prelude back in 2003. I assume those kinds of problems come from the fact that "sporty coupe" has a significantly rigid body. The rigid body tends to transfer more forces caused by "road imperfections" to the "weak components" inside the cabin.
 
I have some suggestions :
 
First: if you suspect the rattles are coming from the trunk lid rubber seal, then drive your car with the trunk partially open. In order to check clearly, you have to drive at night in a quiet place. If the rattles disappear, you can adjust the height of "trunk lid rubber fastener(stopper)" in order to secure the closing of the lid.
It looks like a rubber cylinder with 1/2" dia. Two of them are located in right and left ends of trunk. You may put a thin layer of silicon grease(a few bucks at autozone) around the rubber lid, not the rubber fastener.
 
Second, if you think the rattle comes from somewhere else, I probably search the sunroof first. This was my case. First, I thought that the rattling sounds came from the rear end. Later I figured out that the sunroof and its operating mechanism were the culprits. If you drive hard or drive in a rough road condition, your car will endure a tremendous amount of stress; which leads to deformation of the weakest part of chassis. If you see small uneven gaps between the sunroof rubber seals and the roof opening, this is the indication that you need to see the sunroof.
 
After opening the inner roof panel, you see the power sunroof mechanism. It weights more than 50lbs in my case. In a quiet environment, by twisting each part individually, you can point out the culprit. In my case, the dual steel tubes and its rubber seals(which attach to the drainage) were rubbing each other. The rubber seals were already deformed so that they caused squeaking sounds whenever I twisted the dual steal tubes. When you put back the roof panel, be sure to all the spacers and fasteners are located correctly and functioning well.
 
Finally, the tire pressure is very important. If a tire pressure is set too high, the car body tends to twist more because your tires tend to absorb less road imperfections.
The best way to measure tire pressure is as follows:
 
1. buy a dial tire pressure gauge with pressure release button and a portable tire pump. I bought them for less than 20 bucks at walmart 2 or so years ago.
 
2. measure tire pressure in the morning before driving.
   inflate or deflate according to the manufacture recommendation.
I do this every two or three weeks. The recommended tire pressure should be re calibrated according to the ambient temperature. If your manufacture recommended tire pressure is 32psi and the ambient temperature is 70 degree, you can put 32psi. If the ambient temp drops down to 60, put 31psi. If 50F, put 30psi. After driving a while, you will see the tire pressure increases by up to 4-5 psi. You can feel the point that the chassis can't deal with too high tire pressure. High tire pressure is good for your mpg but bad for your chassis rigidity. We need some compromise between them.

#537 of 669 Hyundai Tiburon Gt 2003 Problems by fskibik

Feb 18, 2006 (1:09 pm)

Where should I start ? Date of purchase 9/18/03 New 1st problem door accuator 2nd problem left side window motor replaced 3rd problem battery replaced 4th problem right side window motor replaced 5th problem 17 alloy rims re painted color faded away 6 th problem new purge control valve installed 7th problem alloy rims repainted 8th problem window mirrors repainted because of fading. All of these problems are happening just under 26 months. Now on 2/14/06 and just 23,000 miles I need a new clutch they tell me it's because of abuse and there is no warranty on a cluch unless the flywheel is broken then it's a warranty item. At my local Hyundai Dealer it's going to cost me $2300.00 I like the looks but it's a money pit indeed.

#538 of 669 Looking for o2 sim for Tiburon 04 by dbtibby

Mar 15, 2006 (7:21 pm)

I just put new headers on my 04 Tiburon and there's not a place for my pre-cat o2 sensor. Going crazy looking for a o2 sim.Any ideas?

Messages Page 54 of 67

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