Last post on Apr 22, 2013 at 10:11 AM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair
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Daewoo Lanos, Daewoo Nubira, Daewoo Leganza, Hatchback, Sedan, Wagon
#1355 of 1365 Re: was running so great...then.... [yesidid]
Oct 05, 2012 (11:44 am)
I agree with daewoocrazy, when the alternator goes all the instruments will act crazy and will eventually die. I had one partially go, the regulator would not work under high load (lights on) so after a while the tach would bounce around, knew it was time to charge battery. Easy check is to fully charge the battery then try to start it, if it runs good, you have confirmed the alternator is bad.
#1356 of 1365 Re: heating problem [pastorbob]
Oct 07, 2012 (9:56 pm)
mine was doing something very similar have it pressure tested mine was the water pump
#1357 of 1365 Re: was running so great...then.... [daewoocrazy]
Oct 26, 2012 (1:36 am)
my friend found a wire that was not connected...not sure where. he reconnected it and it has been running perfect. also, drilled some holes in the thermostat so now I just have to watch it for overheating but so far it's doing fine, using no extra fluids of any sort, no leaks, no overheating. the a.c. is doing it's job as well. only 1 flat tire since writing the previous post. loving my little daewoo. thanks for the info., will keep for future reference. much appreciation.
#1358 of 1365 Re: Daewoo ECU and EGR [itsmechris66]
Dec 08, 2012 (10:33 am)
Sorry, that I just saw your post and now it is old. Here I go, anyway.
I think the 2000 computer may not be compatible with a 2002 engine, but I see no reason not to try (except it can be a booger getting it in and out). The computer you change to would need to know the VIN number and you may not have the necessary equipment for this, but it could function without it.
At this point, I would not suspect the computer. The computer would be the last thing I would suspect.
I don't understand your statement "codes that come in and clear". Do you mean that after a few starts the code clears itself?
More than one thing has to exist before this code will set. The computer is relying on readings from the MAP, speed, Decel Fuel Cutofff and IAC sensors, etc. Therefore, it would be good to know if this code had been set on the car the EGR came from.
If it sets the code on the current car, it should also have set a freeze frame, which can be read from a good scan tool (does not have to be the Daewoo tool, but probably better than what you find at auto parts stores).
Your replacement engine may have a defective MAP or other sensors that are affecting the EGR operation. I am thinking the MAP, IAC and TPS sensors were not changed with the engine and are all therefore suspect.
NOW, THIS IS IMPORTANT: The code clearing allows the new EGR to relearn a new pintle position. The DTC (code) must be cleared with the ignition on and with the engine off or idling to learn the new pintle position.
The proper scan tool will read the desired EGR setting and the actual setting, which could indicate a problem with the EGR, itself (will show on the freeze frame) and indicate trying still another used EGR valve.
Hope this helps. Sorry I am so late.
#1359 of 1365 1999 Leganza Brake Lights
Dec 08, 2012 (8:23 pm)
Brake lights stopped working, changed the fuse, and bulbs. Changed the switch under the pedal. Is the switch adjustable? It seems you can set the depth of the plunger by pressing in on it.
Anyway, brake lights still do not work, any ideas?
#1360 of 1365 Re: 1999 Leganza Brake Lights [andy_in_az]
Dec 08, 2012 (9:47 pm)
Is it possible you installed a switch that is not good? It happens. I purchased a MAP sensor once that looked new, but someone had taken it out of a car and returned it to O'Reilly for refund (they do that for shops) and it went back into circulation and of course, I got it.
I would use a volt-ohm meter to check for continuity in both the old and the new switch. Inexpensive volt-ohm meters cost so little that everyone should have one and learn how to use it.
I see no adjustment in the switch; it is a simple switch that should close contacts when it is out.
Do the back-up lights work? If they do, then the ground is probably good, but I would check for a solid ground (Black wire), anyway. The rear window stop lamp has its own ground. Does it work? If it does, that would lead to suspecting the brake light ground.
The ground for the brake lamps is below the tail lamp on the driver's side, in the trunk.
The ground for the window center stop lamp is under the front driver's seat.
I hope this helps. If it doesn't, please post again.
#1361 of 1365 Daewoo Leganza AC Controls won't light up
Jan 10, 2013 (7:29 pm)
1999 Leganza CDX climate controls are dead. No power replaced unit still not getting power. yet when turn on night time driving instrument lights light up but no power to the ac controls/heat. Anyone got an idea on what to do?
#1362 of 1365 No 12v power going to crank sensor
Jan 16, 2013 (7:35 pm)
I have a 2001 Daewoo Lanos and I do not have any 12v power going to my crank sensor any help would be greatly appreciated.
#1363 of 1365 Re: Oil In Coolant - 2000 Daewoo Leganza [daewooowner1]
Feb 19, 2013 (3:59 pm)
Yikes, when I bought a Nubira, the coolant cap was clicking and not coming loose, and neither my mechanic or I thought to undue a radiator hose, shame on both of us!! I think the seller snookered me! After I bought the car and another mechanic broke the cap off, there was oil in coolant!! Head gasket didn't fix it, mechanic said it probably got over heated and there was a crack in the block so we got a junkyard engine. Also for daewoo owners, nubira, watch for that water pump bypass hose leaking, it appears to be the water pump leaking but its just a hose. Avai in Puerto Rico via a supplier or the local guys have a J shaped hose that will fit. Starter goes about 90,000 miles on the 2 liter nubira, it starts turning over slowly b4 it goes.
#1364 of 1365 bad fuel pump
Feb 21, 2013 (11:07 pm)
hard starting, cranking 3 times to start, engine lite finally came on---
1. shows problem with coil--changed
2. problem with O2 in block--- changed.
3. did a fuel pressure check on original pump--- replaced with new fuel pump
3000 miles later had same problems did a fuel pump pressure test again and it would not hold pressure.
upon removing 3000 mile pump it was hot to the touch so it must have burnt out.
just installed another new one (12000 miles/ 1 year warantee)
QUESTION will it happen again or is there still something wrong