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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro Accessories & Modifications

39 messages, Last post on Nov 17, 2009 at 4:28 PM
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Replying to: truhlar (Feb 03, 2007 6:40 am) Thanks, Jerry |
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Greetings , I'm about done with all the bloody expensive BS trying to keep the 4.3 running . I'm Old school , and want to put a Summit Racing 350 with a Holly 4 hole TBI into my Astro. Get rid of all the crap that keeps on costing more and more Like, computer, Air sens, EGR, Map sens ,and all the rest of the crap I cant work on without a 20 grand diagnostic bench. I dont care if mileage goes away. I mostly ride a bike for my gas savings and doing my part in being "environmentally responsible".... But when I need to haul something, I dont want to have to fix the van first. And if its not in peek performance, all the stuff (mileage and emissions) its supposed to do just goes out the window anyway. For Sure, it ain't helpin' the wallet. Anyway, I've been wanting to do a mild hot rod project ,so I guess this is it. Body, frame and interior all are in grate shape. Any Gear heads out there have any do and donts you would like to share ?
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Replying to: e_cycle (Oct 22, 2007 1:57 pm) Sounds like you are a very determined person. Like you, I too wish the Astro/Safari vans came with an "optional V8" engine. If they did, I bet majority of folks would have a factory V8 Astro/Safari van. The default V6 4.3L isn't the best for pulling power - especially against a strong head wind and up hills at the same time. Not too sure if your proposed V8 engine will fit (or not). However, I read many posts about others fitting in a V8 engine into their van and it works. Not only does it work, it blows the doors off the under toque factory V6 4.3 engine. When a a V8 Astro/Safari van pulls up hills on a fast hiway, "look out". For more details on V8 engine installs, surf: http://www.astrosafari.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard.cgi?act=SF;f=9 Hope this helps... .
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Replying to: spike99 (Oct 22, 2007 4:36 pm) |
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Replying to: truhlar (Feb 03, 2007 6:40 am) I have a 97 Astro with the same dutch doors. With a screwdriver, remove the clip at the cylinder of the rod (the end mounted on the door) to release it from the ball stud. DO NOT remove the clip from the rod end (the end mounted to the body). Then unscrew the rod until it is all the way out of the mount. It is standard thread (righty-tighty, lefty-loosey). After unscrewing the rod all the way, the electrical switch for the rear window defroster will slide off the end of the rod. It is not connected to the rod mount but it does have a notch for proper alignment. I used a pair of pliers applied just below the switch to loosen the old rod enough to finish unscrewing it by hand. Since this rod is being replaced, it doesn't matter that the old rod will get scratched but take care not to scratch the new rod. To replace, slide the new support rod through the defroster switch and screw into the top mount. Be careful not to cross thread. It took me 2-3 starts on the first one to get it right. Tighten the new rod by hand to where it is tight enough but still positioned correctly to pop back on the the lower ball stud. I just used my hand to pop it back on, but you may want to use a rubber mallet. Hand tighten only - do not used pliers on the new rod. The StrongArm brand part number is #4219. It took about 10 minutes to change both. I have 2 repair manuals on this vehicle and neither addresses this procedure. Hope this helps. |
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| does anyone know how to take out the middle row windows on a 2000 GMC safari. It's almost as if it has locking bolts on it or something | |
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Replying to: stephjr78 (Jun 21, 2003 1:21 pm) LOOK AT TRANS UPDATES! |
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Replying to: garbman (Mar 17, 2005 3:13 am) A/C! |
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