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Honda Element

4702 messages, Last post on Nov 06, 2009 at 8:14 AM
You are in the Honda Element Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Yikes...the hitch is almoust $500. I jusy got the E a month ago and of course (Murphy's Law) I need a hitch SOON. Did not count on having a small sailboat but now I do. Can we get aftermarket Hitches and Balls, if so were. At $500 is worth more that the boat. Couls someone advice...and finally what was the towing max on the E? Doeas anybody know???? Thanks |
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There are always after market trailer hitchs, but if you want a Honda hitch check a site like http://www.handa-accessories.com/elementext.html |
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Shop for a Hidden Hitch or a Draw Tite, those are usually much, much cheaper. Some go for as little as $80, though you'll also need a harness. I bet Honda outsources production of that type of accessory. I know Subaru does, then they mark it up. Even then I paid $180 for mine, OE Subaru. $500 is insane! Do they include an oil cooler and a power steering cooler? I know they do for the Odyssey. That might explain it. Edit: looks like no, Handa had it for $212. They say even list is under $300. That dealer is trying to rip you off. Towing capacity is 1500 lbs for the Element. xweb: you'll only find out FWD was not enough if you get stuck. Do you really want to wait until you're stuck? Get 4WD. In the snow and mud you'll benefit from it. -juice |
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| I noticed the list price on the Handa site too - just didn't want to rub salt in the dealer inflicted wound. | |
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Perhaps it's $500 installed?? Or perhaps that includes the wiring harness which is $168 list?? That would bring total list to $463. Also take a look at the installation instructions at the earlier link. The hitch is fairly straightforward - the harness is not. First 2 pages are Honda legalese. 3-9 is for the harness including removal and reinstall of bumper and many interior bits. 10-13 are for the hitch - with the bumper on. I thought the CRV hitch was a joke to install!! |
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| ...I can't believe how many Elements I'm seeing around Boston driven by all sorts of folks - most skewing older. I saw a silver one this AM - with a nice mesh grill on it. | |
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I believe Honda has "on demand" 4WD - the rear wheels will only activate if the front wheels are slipping. In other words, if you are bogged down. Which isn't usually the case on typical snowy roads. Subaru uses "all wheel drive" where a portion of the power is always sent to the back wheels - this helps much more on curves and snowy roads. The main advantage to 4WD of the Honda variety in California, is that it will save you having to put on chains when the "chains required" signs are up in the mountains. Even though in those conditions the 4WD really doesn't help. (In the midwest and eastern USA, people get by without 4WD or chains all the time.) I have been told that "traction control" systems that prevent wheel spin and slides by selectively activating the ABS system on a wheel by wheel basis are almost as good as AWD in keeping you out of trouble on snow and ice; and also that snow tires on FWD cars are better than regular tires and 4WD or AWD. So there are a lot of ways of approaching the 4WD issue. (Of course 4WD is essential for off-road use, but the Element is not really an off-road car, with or without 4WD.) The Elements 4W is totally useless on wet roads - it simply doesn't activate in a timely fashion. The Subaru AWD, VW 4 Motion, and Audi Quattro systems are designed for wet roads. They use all four wheels, all the time. |
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$463 is outrageous. Sounds like the install isn't that straight forward, either (it was for my Subie, fortunately). Do you have a Trick Trucks or a U-Haul near you? Those types of places do it. Even Pep Boys does. -juice |
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Micweb - Ummm... yes and no. RT4WD is a reactive design. That's true. However, it is much faster and more effective than you seem to expect. The rear wheels will kick in after the front tires spin about one quarter of a turn. The main advantage is that it allows the vehicle to remain in FWD mode when power to the rear is superfluous. The drivetrain is more efficient this way, which promotes good fuel economy and acceleration. Traction control systems will help you accelerate in slippery conditions by preventing power from "leaking" out one side of the differential. They don't do all that much for cornering and handling. (They don't do anything unless you have your foot on the gas.) You need a stability control system that manages all four wheels to balance a car in a slippery turn. I agree that proactive or full-time AWD is the best in terms of absolute power distribution. But your paper assessment of reactive systems is considerably weaker than experience has shown. |
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The catch with traction control is it retards momentum. Some times you actually want a little wheel slip. My friend leased a ML320 and actually turns it off in the snow, he thought it was a nuisance. Also, a FWD vehicle going up a steep hill is a recipe for disaster. All the weight transfers to the rear axle. The fronts have no traction and aren't likely to get it even with traction control. Consumer Reports' test a couple of months back had AWD better than even snow tires on FWD, IIRC. The advantage was slight, but imagine both with the same tires. -juice |
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