Last post on Sep 29, 2013 at 4:46 PM
You are in the Mazda6
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Mazda MAZDA6, Hatchback
#749 of 770 I'd like a 16"
Mar 04, 2008 (10:34 am)
I'd prefer 16" tires/wheels instead of the 17"s.
The minor improvement in handling is not worth the added tire expense, harsher ride and increased possibility of damage in potholes.
#751 of 770 2005 Mazda6 5-door MT pricing and advice?
Mar 12, 2008 (8:07 pm)
I found a red 2005 Mazda6 5-door MT for sale. It has 64000 miles and looks in good shape. I'm going back tomorrow to take another look. The dealer is asking $13999. I ran the CarFax report and it's a clean 1-owner car. What should I offer? What problems should I look for?
#752 of 770 Re: 2005 Mazda6 5-door MT pricing and advice? [exit123]
Mar 12, 2008 (8:48 pm)
Oh, I forgot to mention that it's a V6.
#753 of 770 Re: 2005 Mazda6 5-door MT pricing and advice? [exit123]
Mar 13, 2008 (3:39 am)
An '05 with 64K miles? I'd START bargaining at $10K, and wouldn't pay a cent above $12K, since some NEW '07 models can be had for $13999...
#754 of 770 Re: 2005 Mazda6 5-door MT pricing and advice? [mz6greyghost]
Mar 13, 2008 (8:25 am)
How could you get a new 07 model for $13999?
#756 of 770 Re: Chat night [pf_flyer]
Mar 21, 2008 (12:31 pm)
Well, I've finally gotten my car back from the dealer. They were 3 weeks getting and installing the headlights. I am not impressed. They gave me the lights at their cost, no charge for labor, which I guess is fair enough. However, they did not transfer the parking light bulbs to the new lights and used my old bulbs despite me asking them to put new silverstars in. I'm not sure they did an outstanding job of reinstalling the bumper, either since the gap at the leading edge of the hood seems a little bigger now.
Anyways, on the subject of tires for winter driving -- I live in sort of snowy country, in that we have a lot of open time mixed with serious snowfalls in a typical winter. Slush is common. The terrain is hilly and the roads are not straight. I have found a set of winter tires very useful, starting with Blizzaks on an '85 Saab 900 T hatch several years ago. My 6 is running 17" wheels and Aurora tires which were apparently installed by the selling dealer to help move the car. They performed very nicely on ice, but will not pull the hill that is my driveway in more than a couple of inches of snow. Next winter, I'll have either Blizzaks or Michelin Arctic-Ice tires on it and all will be well. I mention the Arctic-Ice because I bought a set for the wife's LaCrosse and the car performs very well in most anything that nature has thrown at us this winter, including the latest 15" snowfall. When we wanted to go somewhere, it went. Granted, we did not have need to go anywhere when there was a level 2 snow emergency in effect, but I think we probably could have if the need arose.
For winter, if your roads are not plowed, you need a fairly narrow tire with an open tread to disperse the slush and water from under the wheels. A wide tire is a disadvantage since your contact patch is wide but short, whereas a narrower tire has a longer and narrower contact patch. The front edge splashes the slop to the side and the back of the contact patch is running on fairly clear road. You guys that live in the city where the main means to deal with snow is to salt it mostly have slush to drive on when it gets white out.
With plowed roads and hardpack, a tire with a lot of fine cuts or sipes in the tread surface will help a lot. Dedicated snow tires are a combination of both the above, plus many are made of a hydrophyllic compound that actually is attracted to the ice molecules. In addition, good winter tires have a low "glass transition" temperature, meaning the tread remains soft in lower temperatures, allowing it to deform around minor irregularities in the snow/ice surface, thus providing increased traction. Strict summer tires and many all seasons are designed for maximum tread wear and the compound gets pretty stiff when the temperatures get much below 20F.
One other note on tires -- the OEM tires are pretty hard to find. I know, you can easily find the same size and name on the tire, but the ones commonly found at the tire store are not exactly the same tread compound and construction as the ones on the car originally. Read the fine print on the tires -- all the codes and numbers, and insist the dealer give you the exact same tire as the OEMs. Not just the same brand, model, and size. It does make a difference.
My sources for the above information, for those of wondering why you should believe it, are as follows: My daughter and SIL, suspension and brake engineers in Detroit. Their neighbor, who tests tires for many Ford vehicles and determines which of the many suppliers are best able to tune their tires to match the suspensions of the vehicles as they are designed. In addition, I read a lot, and have been driving in Ohio and Michigan (50 miles north of Grand Rapids in the Lake Michigan snow belt) winters since 1962, when I was sent home from the driver license testing facility because the examiner decided it was too snowy and slippery to take the test -- never mind that I drove the 20 miles to and from the test site.
#757 of 770 opinions please
Mar 23, 2008 (6:47 pm)
Would like opinions on a 2005 Mazda 6, 5 door, V6 S Sport, 6 Speed Automatic, Bose, moonroof, cloth interior, 28,500 miles for aprox. $12,500 with a salvage title. All repair work done to restore left front fender buy local body shop with Mazda parts. Good deal, poor deal, something to stay away from?
#758 of 770 Re: opinions please [car114]
Mar 24, 2008 (8:13 am)
The price is good for a car that hasn't been wrecked. Mine had about twice that on it and the dealer was asking about 2500 more that what you quoted.
Personally, I would have concerns about things that were damaged by the impact that didn't show up when it was fixed. How severe was the impact? Was there damage to front suspension components or mounting points? Shock towers?
Did the airbags deploy? If so, was the dash put back together properly? Did the seatbelts get used? They stretch when they function and should be replaced after a collision.
There are just a lot little things that can show up after a car has been wrecked and fixed that can be problems later on. There might be nothing or there might a lot of little things or maybe even a big item or two that will fail later. Anything from switchgear to window tracks might have been weakened by the jolt. There could be a hairline crack in the transmission case or something that won't be evident until the weather changes or you hit a pothole, then you could have a problem. The factory warranty is probably out the window with the salvage title, so any drivetrain problems that might arise will be all yours. I would check with the dealer about the warranty before putting any money on the table.
That salvage title will also make it hard for you to get a decent price for the car when you go to sell it. Check with your insurance company, too. They may not want to cover it.