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Sedans Mazda6 Mazda6 Hatchback
768 messages, Last post on May 02, 2008 at 5:27 AM
You are in the Mazda6 Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: ccd1 (Feb 18, 2008 5:41 pm) The hatch is the least common body style, but I don't have numbers for you. I looked a long time to find my used 05 at a dealer 60 miles from home. They are also the most expensive. On an industrial scale, hatchbacks are not big sellers in the U.S. market for some reason. Most of them out there are compacts or smaller, with the Saab, the Malibu Maxx, and Mazda6 being exceptions to that if you don't try to count SUVs and such. |
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Replying to: dateacha (Feb 20, 2008 5:43 pm) Click me!
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Replying to: mz6greyghost (Feb 21, 2008 5:41 am) Do you know the model these pics are for? My lights are all round.
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Replying to: dateacha (Feb 21, 2008 1:50 am) The pic is for the '03-'05 unit, but I've been told the '06-up unit adjustments are identical. They're not locking nuts, BTW, the ends of the bolts are for adjusting with a hex key. Here's another pic: Click me!
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Replying to: mz6greyghost (Feb 21, 2008 7:10 am)
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Replying to: dateacha (Feb 21, 2008 2:59 pm) With the airbox out so I can reach screw B (sort of), the airmass sensor and a few other emissions/engine management items are disconnected. I'm presuming it is not a good thing to run the engine with these things disconnected. Therefore, the light adjustments need to be done with engine off, except the lights stay on for only a few minutes without the ignition on. I don't know enough about the car yet. What harm will I do if I let it idle with the airmass sensor and other electrical bits around the air intake disconnected? Can you leave the ignition on without the engine running without doing harm to anything? Some cars get their computers screwed up when you do one or the other of these. Is there a way to bypass the auto lights off feature? Finally, and this is specifically about the photo posted by greyghost, is screw A the adjustment for the fog light height? It's the only one not indicated in your previous drawings, so by logic it must be what I'm after, but does anyone know for sure? It seems that moving the screw doesn't make much change, although I need to drive it to see how much difference I've made. The back wall of the garage isn't far enough away to properly aim lights. I always do final adjustments at night on a lonely back road, which we have a lot of around here. Thanks again for any and all assistance.
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Replying to: dateacha (Feb 22, 2008 7:07 am) what genius designed this thing and how are you supposed to adjust the lights? Ahhh yes, I've cursed out the supposed headlight "designer" many times myself. I feel your pain.  What harm will I do if I let it idle with the airmass sensor and other electrical bits around the air intake disconnected? Can you leave the ignition on without the engine running without doing harm to anything? Not 100% sure about this, but I'll bet you trip the "check engine" light if the motor is running. If you leave the key at "on" WITHOUT starting the engine, the headlights will not automatically turn off, and you'll be able to work on them without the engine running, and wasting gas. I've done this many times myself without any damage done. Is there a way to bypass the auto lights off feature? That? I don't know, but doing the above should make this a non-issue. is screw A the adjustment for the fog light height?... Here's a key to the photo I posted earlier, and I apologize for not posting this before. A: Adjusts the vertical aiming of both the low and high beams. B: Adjusts the horizontal aiming of the low beam only. C: Adjusts the vertical aiming of the low beam only. D: Adjusts the horizontal aiming of the high beam only. E: Adjusts the vertical aiming of the integrated fog light only. The "recommended" order of adjustment: 1. Turn off all lights and remove the low beam fuses to isolate the fog lights and high beams (or cover the low beams with a towel or other object to block out the light). 2. Turn on the high beams only. 3. Adjust A to set the high beam at the desired height. This will affect the low beam’s aim too but that will be corrected later. 4. Adjust D to set the left – right position of the high beam. 5. Turn off the high beams and turn on the integrated fogs. 6. Adjust E to set the integrated fogs at the desired height. 7. Turn off all lights and replace the low beam fuses (or uncover low beams). 8. Turn on the low beams only. 9. Adjust C to set the low beam at the desired height. 10. Adjust B to set the left-right position of the low beam. 11. You may have to adjust C again if B required a lot of adjustment. I hope all this helps. Enjoy your snow day!
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Replying to: mz6greyghost (Feb 22, 2008 8:07 am) Your pics were very helpful. The above post will help even more. I put a tarp over the open garage door to cut down the incident light and managed to accomplish something. At least now everything is the same height and the left high beam is hopefully aimed down the road instead of into the left ditch. I found the dustcovers on both sides loose due to the lower locating holes being broken out on both sides. I hope this is not an indication that I will be having light problems like some posters on another site allude to. I might be finding out how good my 4 month 6k mile warranty is. Having the covers off does a lot for being able to get a 13mm wrench on screw A, but I was thinking all it was doing was moving the fogs. I wonder if I can get my 1/4 inch drive ratchet on those puppies? That would sure be nice. Maybe even a cable style driver with replaceable bits would work, or one of those ratcheting box wrenches from Sears. -- Yes! Another tool I can justify!
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Replying to: ccd1 (Feb 18, 2008 5:41 pm) I'm not sure what that means, but it sounds to me like whatever hatchbacks are around now are all that there will be...so you may not want to wait too long. As for the V6...if that is anemic, what do you call my 2.3L I4? The V6 is a US only thing, in the rest of the world the 2.3L I4 is an upgrade and there is no V6. I think Americans would typically prefer a V6 to a 4 cyl turbo and that is why they sell a V6 here. |
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Replying to: dateacha (Feb 22, 2008 2:37 pm) I contacted the dealer (Mike Bass Ford, Sheffield Ohio) and they said to bring it in and they will take care of it. I would be absolutely blown away if they replace the light units free of charge, but I can hope. Pulling a headlamp unit apparently involves removing the bumper and a couple other things I really don't feel like getting into on my garage floor in this weather. Anyways, the design is not quite as demonic as I thought. Those little missing pieces make the whole thing seem almost logical. It's really a pain to try to get at the back of the adjusters when they're buried inside the fender. Even the one for the high beam left-right meant taking the airbox out. With those angle drives in place, you could probably work on the aim of the lights relatively easily. Thanks for all the help, mz6greyghost!
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