Last post on Sep 02, 2012 at 1:44 PM
You are in the Volkswagen Golf
What is this discussion about?
Volkswagen New Beetle, Volkswagen Golf, Volkswagen Jetta, Volkswagen Passat, Diesel, Hatchback, Sedan, Wagon
#637 of 2551 Thanks guys.....almost at 10,000, what is THE BEST synth oil
Jun 24, 2003 (5:19 pm)
Thanks for all the tips, they really helped a lot. So did reading the FAQS page of tdiclub.com...I learned a lot more than what I probably would have never figured out. I am at about 350 miles on this tank with 66% of the diesel gone so the mpg is a lot better than before. I miss my car though because I just brought her in today to get the fan/air con fixed (under warranty! vw is the best!) Even with all these problems I am having, I still love my car. You just have to remember that you will almost never get a "perfect" car.
Also, I am almost at 10,000 miles now.....any recommendations on what type of oil to buy? I was reading the list on TDIclub.com, but honetly it just made my simple minded brain hurt (I am not familiar with car linggo). The website stated the Castrol oil used by the dealership is good but doesn't even fit the requirements stated in the handbook, so now I am wondering if my best bet is to buy my own oil. Here's my car info: 2002 Golf TDI GLS 1.9L. I really don't mind spending a ton of money, just as long as the oil will be better for my car in the long run. Thank you very much guys, you are all my heroes! I hope to become as knowledgeable as you all some day.
Jun 24, 2003 (6:22 pm)
Since you have a 2003 TDI, synthetic is the brew to get. I didnt get a sense of where you are, but in the San Jose CA area, Shell Rotella synthetic 5W-40 is available at the local WAL Mart. Chevron synthetic is also good. If you want to go to a group 4, I personally use Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40. Other group 4's are Redline,Amsoil,
Jun 24, 2003 (6:51 pm)
I use Delvac, it seems to be the best you can buy. The Rotella that ruking suggested is also good, its what I used for my first change since I couldnt find Delvac. After reading horror stories about dealer screwups and seeing what a ripoff the price of service is, I decided to do my own.
Its super easy if you pick up an oil pump that sucks the oil out of the top, you don't even need to go under the car. Just suck the oil out of the dipstick tube, replace the drop in cartridge style oil filter, fill the oil back up, and you are on your way! An oil change costs me about $26, which is less than half what I would be paying the dealer to do with worse oil.
Jun 24, 2003 (7:06 pm)
Yeah, I have been hearing of prices of 72 dollars for the oil change at the dealership's. I also have an evacuation tool and it really saves a load of time and is less messy to boot. For the cost of the first oil change you can buy Delvac 1, oil filter, AND the evacuation tool. With the evacuation tool the first oil change at 5k took all of 10 mins!!! Of course I took an extra 10 mins to marvel at how fast this oil change went!
#641 of 2551 What do you mean "cost of first oil change" ???
Jun 24, 2003 (10:15 pm)
I had free service for the first 60,000 kms on my TDI New Beetle. Did VW drop the free service, or do people just not know about it?
RE BRAKES: The VW 4-wheel discs are awesome brakes ... way better than most Japanese cars.
My Beetle TDI has > 150,000 kms on it (95,000 miles) and has all the original brakes ... rears are about 1/2 worn. But I'm on my 3rd set of tires (Yokohama Avid V4)
Still 53 miles to a Canadian gallon (45.5 US MPG) with cruise control set between 80 and 85 MPH on I-5
MILEAGE & PERFORMANCE
Driving in slow city traffic, my revs range from 1500 to <2000 RPM. But in normal driving, I'm passing everything and shifting below 3000 revs.
You want it to be just below 1900 revs AFTER you shift on acceleration to use the torque band.
And guys with the trip computers report that mileage really drops over 2500 RPMs.
Jun 25, 2003 (4:27 am)
One additional comment about your poor MPG....
There have been several people that reported that the injection timing was not within specification right from the factory. I was lucky enough to locate someone with a VAG-COM that was willing to spend some time with my new TDI.
Using his VAG-COM, we set the EGR according to the tdiclub FAQ. We also displayed a graph of the injection timing. (He said mine was very good) He also said that the last brand-new TDI he had checked had the injection timing so far out of whack that the VAG-COM refused to display the graph.
BOTTOM LINE: I suggest you hook up with someone that has a VAG-COM and check the injection timing. This may be the source of your extremely poor MPG.
To locate somone with a VAG-COM in your area.... see the tdiclub "VAG-COM LIST" there are 100s of folks out there that are willing to help you.
#643 of 2551 dieselbreath : Free service
Jun 25, 2003 (4:49 am)
It was dropped in 2002, in exchange for things like a 5 year/40 mile bumber to bumper warranty...
Jun 25, 2003 (6:40 am)
As an above poster stated: my 2003 VW Jetta TDI does NOT have FREE service. It does have 4 year 50,000 mile warranty and roadservice. (which I hope never to fulfill on) The rust protection is also guaranteed for 12 years.
I was happy to hear you having good luck with the VW Beetle TDI brakes with 95,000 miles on the original pads, especially with the rear pads. Most of the informationI have read on Jetta brakes indicates that I need to really check on the rear pads going on 25,000 miles! While they have "made improvements" to the 2003 brakes, this is a case of "time will tell in the real world" Nonetheless I have a set of F/R Mintex Red replacement pads, and have a source for rear rotors should I not be as lucky as you with your brake mileage.
On the flip side it seems a bit odd that you are on the third set of tires approaching 95,000 miles ! The stock Goodyear LS's (which are probably not the best tires) give me an indication that they might go 75-80k. with not too much of a problem. While this may be meaningless, I have Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar tires with a 220 rating and have 52k on them and they started out with 8/32 tread, seemingly they have 10-15k left on them. Goodyear LS tires for the Jetta start with 11/32 tread and have a 360 rating.
My fuel mileage seems to mirror yours: 45.3 mpg (three persons in the vehicle, 200#'s of luggage, air conditioner full blast, cruising at XXX.) When my wife drives it for her daily 50 mile commute, it returns upwards of 47-51 mpg. I still can't get over how good this TDI mileage is!!!
Jun 25, 2003 (8:02 am)
Mr. TDI, I had the same problem (e.g., very low gas mileage), when I first picked up my car....it also seemed rather "doggy"...but what'd I know. I found out, while driving it, that the brake pedal, when depressed, wasn't returning to the original position...so when I stuck my toe under it and brought it all the way up, INSTANT performance improvement! (Duh). VW fixed it immediately, giving me a loaner car and such. I also got my 5K going over (oil change, check and tighten and so on), for free, but will be doing my own minor maintenance from now on. I think I'm going to go with Amsoil, which appears to be pretty highly rated and easily locally available. Any comments on that?
Also, my original tires are Michelins.
Jun 25, 2003 (8:37 am)
In these days of persnickety engine warranty denial, I would be careful. The bottom line is: ask the dealer that you will get to do any engine warranty fulfillment. The first thing procedurally they do is to take an engine oil sample. Some Redline and Amsoil products ( excellent oils by the way) advertise they have passed applicable standards in in house testing/tests, but do not wish to come under the standards program to actually wear the certification label. So what they do, is say they will evaluate and adjudicate on a case by case basis and help to write letters to the OEM if you should be refused engine warranty service due to related oil concerns. So it puts the onus on you to exhaust ALL avenues of resolution before they will even evaluate it. So while engine failure due to oil related concerns is VERY VERY VERY RARE, it is WAY easy to deny warranty if you do not fully comply. Then you have to prove it was arbitrary and caprious !!! So if the worst case is alright with you, they are actually good oils. I don't buy them because 1. they cost more than off the shelf oil (in my case Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40) 2. tack on shipping. 3. not commonly available. 4. while they work well in extended change intervals (up to 25,000 miles) going beyond the manufacturers recommend cycle can void the warranty, so for warranty purposes, conceptually you lose the benefit of extended oil changes. So that causes me to ask the question: is buying this product worth the (whatever percentage) higher cost/bang for the buck? If Redline and Amsoil were similarly priced to Delvac 1 (5 dollars a qt) that would encourage me to use them. I have seen Redline at like 8.95 a qt. Amsoil priced at 5.20-5.95, but shipping adds app 1 dollar per qt!