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Paint and Body Maintenance & Repair

1025 messages,  Last post on Nov 12, 2009 at 10:06 AM

You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright

What is this discussion about? Auto Body, Paint, Coupe, Convertible, Hatchback, Truck, Sedan, Wagon, SUV, Van

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#988 of 1025 Re: info [mitchflorida] by obyone Jun 24, 2009 (11:07 am)
Replying to: mitchflorida (Jun 24, 2009 10:00 am) From what I've seen they would rather take someone off the street with the right amount of "enthusiasm" rather than someone with trade school experience with an "attitude".   I've also noticed this with restaurants that hire cooks sometimes avoiding those that have graduated from cooking school that think they have qualified as a chef because of that "school" experience. Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Jun 25, 2009 6:36 am) bigfur (Jul 04, 2009 8:06 am)
#989 of 1025 Re: info [obyone] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Jun 25, 2009 (6:36 am)
Replying to: obyone (Jun 24, 2009 11:07 am) A really smart young person can learn much faster in life than they can in a classroom---the only thing the classroom can offer is resources, be it all the right books, lab equipment or welding torches. Replies to this message: bigfur (Jul 04, 2009 8:06 am)
#990 of 1025 Re: info [Mr_Shiftright] by bigfur Jul 04, 2009 (8:06 am)
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jun 25, 2009 6:36 am) The course i went thru i feel is the best way to go. We had one semester in the classroom learning the basics of plastic filler and welding. Then we had a semester in the field working at a body shop as an apprentance. Then a semester back in class working on frame work. Followed by a semester back in a shop. And it went on for two years until we had a degree with taking some other classes and we had a job when we were done. Reason i stress the degree part is that half of us who went thru the class are no longer in auto body repair, we are in other automotive industries. Only major down fall is, that since this course I took was sponsored by GM...you guessed it, its dead!!!
#991 of 1025 First by oldfarmer50 Jul 11, 2009 (3:25 pm)
Let me thank jwjackson for his service.   Then I have a question on new paint.   How long after you repaint a bumper or have pin stripes applied should you wait before you detail a car? Can you wash and wax right away or should you let the paint "cure"? Is it better to park inside or out in the sun?   Sounds like there are some paint pros in here who will know. Replies to this message: bigfur (Jul 14, 2009 5:13 am)
#992 of 1025 Re: First [oldfarmer50] by bigfur Jul 14, 2009 (5:13 am)
Replying to: oldfarmer50 (Jul 11, 2009 3:25 pm) The rule used to be to wait for i think it was three monthes before waxing fresh paint. And i would park inside as much as possible to aviod getting junk in the paint.
#993 of 1025 PDR (Paintless Dent Repair) effectiveness? by colin_l Jul 20, 2009 (6:58 am)
My '03 Evo was beat up a bit in a recent hailstorm.   I had it estimated last week, and was surprised to hear that Progressive was quoting PDR for the whole car. 50+ dents on the hood, 60+ on the roof, 50+ on the trunk, and 2 (haha) on one door.   The hail was quarter to golf-ball sized and there doesn't appear to be any hard creases or paint damage. But the hood and trunk lid of my car are aluminum, so will PDR even work? And will it work on the window pillars? I'm guessing they remove the body panels and do this stuff on a bench, or something. Replies to this message: bigfur (Jul 22, 2009 5:11 am)
#994 of 1025 Re: PDR (Paintless Dent Repair) effectiveness? [colin_l] by bigfur Jul 22, 2009 (5:11 am)
Replying to: colin_l (Jul 20, 2009 6:58 am) If you have that much damage im guessing the body shop would replace the panels instead of doing PDR. PDR is great for a door ding or two, but not for hail damage. Have a body shop write up a quote not the insurance company. Also insist that the insurance company replaces the panels since the metal will be stretched and the clear coat will be cracked with that much fixing. Let us know how it goes.
#995 of 1025 anti rust by gezzyman Jul 26, 2009 (4:09 pm)
what is the best rust inhibitor i can use , i have a couple of surface rust spots that id like to take care of before i repaint my car? any help is greatly appreciated thanks mike
#996 of 1025 Fabric Protector by chris789 Aug 02, 2009 (9:48 pm)
I just got a new car with cloth seats. I've been looking online for fabric protectors. What would you recommend I use? Below are two I've found. This is for a Camry w/ Light Grey cloth seats.   http://www.metroguardian.net/shop/fabric-protector-by-guardian-c-7-p-10.html   http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchgard-4104D-Interior-Protector/dp/B001NPD7BK/ref=s- r_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1249277706&sr=8-3   Thanks, Chris Replies to this message: tallman1 (Aug 05, 2009 9:17 pm)
#997 of 1025 Re: Fabric Protector [chris789] by tallman1 Aug 05, 2009 (9:17 pm)
Replying to: chris789 (Aug 02, 2009 9:48 pm) Scotchgard has been the cloth protectant of choice for many years but I think I remember that they had to change the formula a few years ago. 303 High Tech Fabric Guard is another choice but I know nothing about it. I've never heard of your first product link either. Ultima also makes a protective product.   Sorry, been awhile since I had cloth seats. I found that I never really needed a protectant because there are some great cleaners out there. Good luck!

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