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Paint and Body Maintenance & Repair

1025 messages,  Last post on Nov 12, 2009 at 10:06 AM

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What is this discussion about? Auto Body, Paint, Coupe, Convertible, Hatchback, Truck, Sedan, Wagon, SUV, Van

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#41 of 1025 Bumper protection strips by f4u1d25 Apr 08, 2002 (4:27 pm)
I've got a beautiful new silver Acura CL 3.2 Type S and making the car so attractive are the color- matched bumpers that show every scratch and chip and since I live in a large city I've been hit enough times for me to consider having the rear bumper repainted. My car wash place fixes this type of problem and will completely redo the bumper for a nominal fee. However I don't want to make this a repeat situation and was wondering if anyone out there knows of a company that makes attractive color-matched vinyl protection strips to solve this problem?
#43 of 1025 Side Panel Metal Thickness-Honda/Acura by fredvh Apr 14, 2002 (9:36 pm)
I have heard a rumor that the side panels on the Honda and Acura are "thinner" than most other cars such as the ES300, I35, and Toyota Camry and therefore are more sensitive to door dings. Is this true?
#44 of 1025 Failing Paint Problem by spyderturbo Apr 19, 2002 (8:16 pm)
I own a '98 black Eclipse Spyder GS-T. I bought it new and have babied the car finish. I wash the car every week and I wax it 4 times a year. I never let any contaminates remain on the paint surface. Basically, you can comb your hair while looking at my car. Now comes the sad part...I have noticed the trunk lid starting to develop a haze. I have waxed and used a clay bar and I am certain the problem lies underneath the clearcoat. After I wax the car, it is very smooth to the touch. The haze looks like thousands of tiny dots. I suspect the paint is failing for some reason. My first thought is perhaps the car was somehow damaged before I purchased it from the dealer and it was painted. Question #1, does a dealer have to inform the buyer that the car has been repainted prior to the sale? #2, from what I have described, does anyone have any ideas on what would cause an original factory paint job to fail like this (assuming that the car was never repainted prior to me buying it)? #3, short of having it sanded and repainted, is there anything else that can be done?   Any advice would be most helpful. This is making me sick!
#45 of 1025 spyderturbo by sddlw Apr 22, 2002 (7:51 am)
Before you panic, try stripping all the acumulated wax off the finish to Sse what the finish looks like without all the wax. You did say wax, like carnuba and not a polymer?   Dishwashing soap, especially the high alkaline kind like the unscented "blue" Dawn works well. Maybe even give it a couple of washes.   If the finish is still hazed, try using a polish/glaze and a good orbital buffer with a foam pad. These are not waxes but mildly abrasive compounds designed to remove a very thin amount of finish and surface oxidation. There are professionals that will do this for you if you want.   Or go to a good auto paint shop and see what they think.
#46 of 1025 Paint Codes by scrap Apr 22, 2002 (4:05 pm)
I am in the process of possibly fixing a repairable Mercury Sable. I am searching for doors for the car, I've contacted a few salvage yards, one the yards tells me I can get the color off of the VIN. I know the paint code is on the the little tag on the door, but the car is a good 150 miles away from me so it's not like I'd be able to check the tag. My question does anyone know if Mercury designates the color red as maroon? And if I would be able to get the color off of the VIN?
#47 of 1025 removing blobs by mpyne Apr 22, 2002 (4:40 pm)
whats the best way to remove touch up blobs on my hood. Will langka work on blobs that are a week old??? also will a mild polish help even out the blobs?? thanks
#48 of 1025 scrap by alcan Apr 23, 2002 (2:54 am)
There isn't a digit in the VIN which denotes paint code, but if you call a Mercury dealer and give them the VIN they'll be able to punch it in and determine the code from the build data.
#49 of 1025 shoot, the paint codes are on the sticker by swschrad Apr 23, 2002 (5:34 pm)
they should be about middle-middle of the door sticker, one for body, and if a second one exists, one for contrast color, like the lower body paint.
#50 of 1025 sddlw by spyderturbo Apr 24, 2002 (7:26 pm)
Thanks for the advice, but don't you think the clay bar would have removed any wax build-up from the surface? Are you suggesting the problem could be with bad wax?

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