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Paint and Body Maintenance & Repair

1025 messages,  Last post on Nov 12, 2009 at 10:06 AM

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What is this discussion about? Auto Body, Paint, Coupe, Convertible, Hatchback, Truck, Sedan, Wagon, SUV, Van

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#31 of 1025 bumper paint damage by acelink Mar 17, 2002 (4:11 am)
Somebody hit my car (parked) and took off. There are now several spots where the paint has been completely peeled off. I went to a part shop to get some sand papers and spray paint cans.     As I tried to sand away the areas with loose paint, the damaged areas got bigger because the outer edge continued to crumble away. What should I do? I have had my bumper repainted and baked before. After a while, I got tired and just sprayed the bumper (paint surface unmatched).     Later, I got myself a putty. Can I use this product on a plastic (rubber?) bumper? Its instruction says to wet sand it to match the paint depth. Your suggestions would be very much appreciated.
#32 of 1025 flexible additive needed by swschrad Mar 17, 2002 (1:26 pm)
you are not going to be real pleased, I don't think, but the flexible plastic bumpers are not going to respond like steel panels. in particular, body putty will fall right out, and your paint is going to come off in big flat sheets, or in little shards with crazing, because the surface underneath flexes. that's what you are seeing from the previous repair; obviously, it was not done right.   anything that goes onto that bumper cover will have to have a flexible base, which can either be met by special chemistry with a long MSDS, or a flexible plasticizer additive that is similarly too ugly on the regulatory front to be sold in the baby-food aisle at the supermarket.   I personally don't think this can be fixed outside a properly equipped body shop... and they won't try to fix the cover if it has any damage, they will order a replacement and repaint to match with a diddled paint.   another triumph for longevity and value, these plastic bumpers that won't take bumping.
#33 of 1025 car coating by glo22 Mar 18, 2002 (1:19 pm)
I just brought a new mini van. I want to add this new coating on the car. The dealer calls it "touch of class or glass". I just want to find out if it is really that good. I was told by someone that if you put that coating on. The car only need to be washed but not waxed.
#34 of 1025 coatings by sddlw Mar 20, 2002 (2:33 pm)
= dealer profits and little value to the consumer. There is nothing the dealer is going to put on your car that will last for more than 6-12 months. You are better off applying a polymer based product yourself 1x or 2x a year and pocketing the $500 or so the dealer will charge you for a glorified wax job.
#35 of 1025 Perma-Finish Paint Protection by cieszynski Apr 02, 2002 (6:15 pm)
Has anyone heard of or used the Perma-Finish Paint Protection System. Check out: http://www.permafinish.com/pages/home.html . They say you don't have to wax your car for 6 years. I'm taking delivery of an 02' Black LSE this week and was thinking of getting this done here in the Atlanta area. Appreciate any comments.
#36 of 1025 appropriate comment by swschrad Apr 02, 2002 (7:24 pm)
hee, hee, hee. six years, that's really rich, these guys don't have any confidence in their scam. most of these characters figure in 14 months or so they can get the money salted away in the Cayman Islands and retire off-shore. in six years, somebody can catch up to them, like the FTC.   good artist, though, on the "artists' conceptions." almost as good as the guy who drew the hammers, lightning bolts, and winces for the 1960s Anacin commercials. if I had hammers, lightning bolts, and winces in my head instead of clogs in my arteries, I would visit museums and pay any price for a 1960s bottle of Anacin.   a bottle of good liquid wax is under $10. you can buy a roll of flannel polish towels for $4. Use them as directed. that works as advertised.
#37 of 1025 Stupid, stupid parking lots!!!! by ochizon Apr 05, 2002 (4:17 pm)
My car was parked by its self, very innocently, on a stretch of parking lot at my apt complex where few others ever park. When I went to go drive it, there was a big old dent in the passenger side door. Some fool nailed it while backing out and took off.   Here's the deal: The dent is large, but there are no sharp edges to the dent (if that makes sense)and all of the paint is intact. It seems as if it could be popped out pretty easily. So should I try it myself? If so, how would I go about doing it? The car is a very simply built toyota tacoma with manual everything, so there shouldn't be much between the door and the sheet metal. Should I just leave this to the pros (in other words, live with the dent since I'm broke)?   Thanks
#38 of 1025 I've Never Used This But----- by alternator Apr 05, 2002 (4:40 pm)
take a look at this: http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdbody02.html Scroll down to the KD2761 ($18.61) device.    I would think you could go to a large tool warehouse near you, buy a similar sized suction cup, try it and return if it doesn't work. I don't believe you can make the dent worse by trying this. Good luck!
#39 of 1025 it could be close by swschrad Apr 05, 2002 (10:28 pm)
bet a suction cup that stays on long enough to pull a big whang out will leave a small ring in the clearcoat, and since metal generally stretches in a noticeable dent there may be a ripple or two, but it sure would be better than an impression of the other character's bumper. that's a nice looking tool for the price.   notice the copy next to the picture says it will pull almost any dent that didn't crease the metal. that's a big gotcha in pulling dents, because once there is a hard crease in the bottom, you have expansion, paint damage, and the crease reinforces the new shape of the metal and strengthens its new path. at that point, you pull what you can, and putty over the rest and refinish.
#40 of 1025 For ochizon: by alternator Apr 07, 2002 (3:13 pm)
Just today I saw a Bondo Dent Puller (suction cup device) in automotive section of local Meijer store for $3.49! Worth a try maybe?

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