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551 messages, Last post on Oct 01, 2009 at 11:01 AM
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I need to replace all three O2 sensors (confirmed by professional engine analysis) on my 96 F150 w/ 5.0L. Is this a DIY project for a "shade-tree" mechanic with very limited knowledge of emissions systems. The going labor rate suggests not much time is involved, and the parts appear to be "plug-n-play." Are there special tools needed (a deal-breaker for sure)? Anyone done this job themselves?
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Replying to: woobegone (Apr 23, 2008 5:14 pm)
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Replying to: mickeymouse2 (Apr 23, 2008 7:20 pm) |
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Replying to: delisae (Apr 13, 2008 5:17 pm) With that said, my '04 F150 2wd had a complete transmission failure at 28,000 miles, 6 days past the 3 year mark! After all my venting, the best I could come up with is 50% off on a trany replacement. My share was $2,200!! They told me I was lucky to get half. I don't feel lucky I've also had repeated problems with the front brakes warping on me. I'm on my third set of warped rotors. |
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I have a 2000 F150 with the 5.4L V-8 and closing in on 100k miles. I don't see anywhere that a timing belt/chain replacement is recommended at a particular interval like some cars at around 100k. Is that right?
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Replying to: egreen3 (Aug 15, 2008 10:56 am) |
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| I changed pads and have soft pedal. I know you have to bleed brakes in a specific order but i dont know it. can anyone help? | |
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If you have rear drum brakes it is rare for your truck, adjust them first. Start bleeding the wheel that is farthest away from the master cylinder. Passenger side rear. Then driverside side rear, then passenger side front, then drivers side front. Note: If you did not replace or machine your rotors, your spungy pedel may be due to the pads not wearing in to the rotor surface. Try pumping the pedel and riding the brakes while driving for short periods of time. Symptom of needed bleeding is after pumping the pedel about 3 times there isn't as much free play or spungy feeling in the pedel, it feels tight. If your pedel still feels spungy after doing this, most likely the surfaces of the rotor and the new pads need to be wear in. |
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Replying to: woobegone (Apr 23, 2008 5:14 pm) |
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Could this be a bad knock sensor. Both converters have been replaced within the last year with the o/2 sensors. Scanner reads o2 sensor and new converters are working ok. Also MAF reads good. 158 compression in cyl. and vacuum pressure is good. Yet I have no power unless I rev up the motor to about 3000rpm and then let off the clutch. this is the same in all gears, even at 45 mph ( until engine speed is upword around 3000rpm). Can I just unplug the knock sensor to test or is there another way? Thx for the help!!
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