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Ford F-150 Owners

569 messages,  Last post on Jan 29, 2013 at 7:07 AM

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What is this discussion about? Ford F-150, Ford F-150 SVT Lightning, Truck

Messages Page 46 of 58

#447 of 569 Re: Want to Buy a 2006 Ford F150 8cyl 5.4 L engine [fradelva] by mickeymouse2

Dec 23, 2007 (9:36 pm)

Replying to: fradelva (Dec 23, 2007 8:34 pm)
I'm a mechanic and while all manufacturers have their problems with certain models, I haven't heard any on your year. There have been some complaints of the head gaskets leaking on the 99-01 F150, but the numbers to me are not significant enough. Fuel pumps have a tendancy to go bad early if the fuel tank is below a 1/4 tank of gas all the time. Remember, the fuel in the tank is the only thing that keeps that electric pump cool. Just a tip. Enjoy your truck, and Merry Xmass.

#448 of 569 Re: My 2 cents [mschmal] by mickeymouse2

Dec 25, 2007 (7:05 pm)

Replying to: mschmal (Dec 23, 2007 9:26 pm)
Just a note. There is a lot of liability in printed advertisement of vin#. If your one charactor off by a type-o, depending on the state, Dealerships are opening themselves up for a law suit. As for Carfax, omg. Carfax is not all knowing. It only has information that is reported to insurance companies, DMV, smog check amoung other sources. I'm a certified technician and I have found numerous vehicles that pass a carfax, and have major problems with them. If a vehicle was un insured and involved in an accident and repaired in a persons garrage, or in mexico, carfax would have no record of it. Carfax is over rated. The best check on a used vehicle is by a qualified technician.

#449 of 569 1988 f150 by slicknuggets

Dec 26, 2007 (9:04 am)

I have an 88 f150 xlt Lariat with a 5.0l in mint condition with only 84, 000 on it. I have replaced and upgraded just about everything on this motor, from intake to fuel system.
I recently found oil in my coolant. the truck is still running great no pings, no knocks. Do I need to replace the head gasket?

#450 of 569 Re: 1988 f150 [slicknuggets] by mickeymouse2

Dec 26, 2007 (10:04 am)

Replying to: slicknuggets (Dec 26, 2007 9:04 am)
Don't tear the engine down just yet. First verify where the oil is coming from. You didn't specify if it was Automatic/manual Trans. If it is a stick shift skip the first parragraph.
A common mistake by even fellow mechanics is a leak in the oil cooler for the transmission. Transmission fluid looks just like engine oil when aggitated and mixed with coolant. Here is a simple test; disconect both transmission lines to the radiator. Hold your finger over one of the holes and put some compressed air through the other port for about five minuts. During this test, look for some small air bubbles coming up into the radiator. This test can be inconclusive, the leak may only occur when hot. If no bubbles, I would still install an after market oil cooler for the transmission, blow out excess fluid from the internal cooler, and drain/flush the radiator and fill it with water. Then run the engine for a good amount of time and look for any oil in the radiator.
 
After all this testing if there is still oil getting into radiator, I would suspect a leak in the lower manifold gasket first, and not the head gaskets, (more common with the 5.0). While head gaskets can introduce oil into the cooling system, it is very rare. I would be very interested in what you find out on a repost. Good luck.

#451 of 569 Re: "Fuel injection purge" ...scam? [brnnln1] by autuer

Dec 26, 2007 (2:45 pm)

Replying to: brnnln1 (Dec 11, 2007 7:45 am)
I don't know if it's a "scam", but I *do* know that I just got a letter from Ford referring to my 2005 F150 Lariat Crew Cab with the 5.4 triton V8. Here's what it said:
"In the interest of customer satisfaction, Ford Motor Company is extending the limited warranty on the Fuel Injectors to a total of 11 years or 120,000 miles from the warranty start date, whichever occurs first. Coverage is automatically transferred to subsequent owners. This coverage exceeds the original warranty coverage provisions of your vehicle for this part"
 
They say, "This is customer satisfaction program 07M08 which is being extended to owners of certain 2005 Model year F150, F Super Duty, Expedition, and Navigator Vehicles equipped with 5.4L 3Valve Engines."
 
So, I think Ford has discovered a problem where injectors from a certain supplier stick in the open or closed position on some vehicles, so perhaps your dealer is trying to prevent the problem by proactively using injector cleaner...
 
BTW, I've had zero problems with my injectors over the last 38,000 miles. I get 14 to 16 mpg city, and 17 to 19 mpg highway.

#452 of 569 Re: 1988 f150 [mickeymouse2] by slicknuggets

Dec 26, 2007 (3:06 pm)

Replying to: mickeymouse2 (Dec 26, 2007 10:04 am)
Maybe I jumped the gun a little. Here is the lowdown on the specs and history.
 
1988 f150 XLT Lariat
50.l Auto 3 speed with overdrive
fully loaded.
 
It seems to me that this happened after i got stuck in the snow and almost overheated the motor. When this happened my temp gauge went up close to the redline and a litle dark blue smoke came up from the passenger side of the hood. I shut it down right away and waited about 20 minutes. The truck started up fine and seemed ok. This was two weeks after I put in a new water pump and radiator. I drove the truck for about a week when I decided to check the fluids, this is when I noticed oil floating at the top of my coolant tank. I checked the radiator and sure enough same thing. My oil pressure is a little lower than it should be but not much, my temp is good too. When I had the waterpump off the coolant was clean. I brought it home and parked it until I get it sorted out.
 
Hope this helps.

#453 of 569 Re: F150 CrewCab or ??? [papajay] by autuer

Dec 26, 2007 (3:25 pm)

Replying to: papajay (Mar 22, 2007 4:06 pm)
Sorry, just saw your message. If it were me, and I could wait a little while, I'd wait until the middle of 2008, when Ford comes out with their 2009 models. I am reading that Ford will be coming out with a DIESEL F150 in their 2009 lineup. That, for me, would be the perfect vehicle to do what you are wanting to do. You don't need all the xtra weight of a superduty to pull a 7500# trailer, but you would LOVE to have a diesel engine to do it, because of the higher torque, and the ability, if you wish, to use Biodiesel, wich is about to get pretty cheap.
 
In addition, you can get the new cool backup-video-in-the-rear-view-mirror option that Ford is coming out with this year. Check it out here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3duZVs7ARaU
 
  Good luck!

#454 of 569 Re: 1988 f150 [slicknuggets] by mickeymouse2

Dec 26, 2007 (5:32 pm)

Replying to: slicknuggets (Dec 26, 2007 3:06 pm)
There may have just been some packing oil inside the radiator or water pump you installed or something may have just got into the cooling system when the water pump was replaced. Flush it out and see if it returns. If it does, do what I suggested to find out what is causing it. Just because the engine got hot, don't assume that the heads are now bad. I have even had brand new radiators have a leak in the internal oil cooler. Someone screwed up at the factory. The puff of smoke on the drivers side could have been anything; snow melting on something hot and oily, who knows.

#455 of 569 Re: 1988 f150 [mickeymouse2] by slicknuggets

Dec 26, 2007 (7:48 pm)

Replying to: mickeymouse2 (Dec 26, 2007 5:32 pm)
Any advice on how to go about flushing the oil out of my cooling system?

#456 of 569 Re: 1988 f150 [slicknuggets] by mickeymouse2

Dec 26, 2007 (9:15 pm)

Replying to: slicknuggets (Dec 26, 2007 7:48 pm)
Autozone has a flushing tee you can buy. Cost is 1.00 or a flush kit that is about 4.00. There are only 3 size heater hoses. The kit has all 3 and female to female connector to attach your hose to the tee. Here is a helpful hint. Turn your garden hose on slowly until you see how fast the water is coming out what ever opening you made,(radiator cap). Turning your garden hose on full blast might drench you and your engine compartment. You want it coming out fast, just not so it makes a mess.
 
You cut one of your heater hoses and put the tee in there at the cut with hose clamps. Unscrew the cap on the tee and connect your garden hose to it. Take your radiator cap off. Turn your garden hose on to desired flow. Start the engine and turn on your heater. Everything will flush out through your radiator cap you removed. Run the engine and your garden hose until crystal clear water is coming out of the radiator. Here's a hint. Turn your heater on full blast to clear that out also. If you have done your own water pump and radiator, you will breez through this. Connecting the tee take about 2 minuts. Run the car at least 10-15 minuts during the flush. When your all done, don't forget to put the cap back on the tee you installed, and the cap on the radiator. The flush kit has a deflector nossle that sticks into the opening of your radiator cap. This helps control the direction of the flow of water away from eloectrical components and the fan. Driving arround with just water for a while isn't going to hurt anything, your doing your test for the oil thing. You can add coolant later by draining the petcock or removing the lower hose. Drive it for a while and see if the oil comes back. If it does, repeat flush and bypass the oil cooler with an after market air cooled oil cooler.

Messages Page 46 of 58

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