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Toyota Camry Prices Paid and Buying Experience

7923 messages, Last post on Dec 02, 2009 at 5:53 PM
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Can anyone provide any numbers on a base LE 4 cylinder with only AM/FM radio in Northern California/Bay area? The best quote I'm getting is 18,498 before TTL. Is anyone getting better?
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Replying to: drums (Jun 02, 2009 11:39 am) You can get a 2010 Camry SE for about 1K under invoice at Fitzmall. Not exactly an apples to oranges comparison, because the 2010 also has newer engine, 6 speed automatic, and VSC as standard. Nothing you can do about it now though, so enjoy your new car. It's a great car, you'll love it. We have over 40K miles on ours, and runs fabulous. Here's a 2010 silver SE 2010 SE
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Replying to: longboat2008 (May 27, 2009 1:01 pm) |
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Replying to: kiawah (Jun 02, 2009 11:36 am) Yes, a hassle free purchase is all I want as well. |
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2010 Toyota Camry Model #2540 (XLE 6-Speed Automatic 4dr Sedan) Included Packages and Options: FE - 50 State Emissions HD - Heated Front Seats LA - Leather Package includes: Camelot Leather Seat Trim, Door Trim w/Integrated Armrest Z1 - Preferred Premium Accessory Package includes: Carpet Floor/Trunk Mat (5-Piece Set), V.I.P. Glass Breakage Sensor (GBS), First Aid Kit MSRP: $28,641 Their Toyota Price (dealer): $26,023 Your Final Price $26,023* I replied to see if the destination fee was included.This is too good to be true..... |
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Replying to: john7485 (Jun 02, 2009 11:48 am)
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Replying to: kiawah (Jun 02, 2009 11:50 am) I called fitzmall yesterday. Their invoice price includes the $1500 rebate. You can choose the rebate or the 0.0% A.P.R . thru toyota motor credit. I think the zero percent was a better deal for us. I believe we could have gotten a better deal if we were willing to stay there a little long and haggle some more but I have come to the conclusion that we find deals when you are not looking for them. I don't remember zero percent 0% APR on camrys. I could be wrong. If I was paying cash I would have bought a certified camry. How much did I overpay? thanks.
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Replying to: brygo (Jun 02, 2009 9:44 pm) |
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Replying to: drums (Jun 03, 2009 5:35 am) Not an easy question to answer, there are too many personal decisions/factors, and it is made up of both objective and subjective factors. - let's just take the 0% financing. That 'cost' you $1,500 bucks up front, to purchase the ability to have a 0% loan. To know whether that is a good deal or not, you need to know how much you borrowed, how long the payments are for, and what % you could have financed it for at your personal credit union or other banks. Run those numbers thru a financial calculator, figure out what the payments would have been had you financed it through a personal bank at the lower amount borrowed, compare to the payments you have, and then take the NPV (net present value) of that difference in payment streams. That will tell you whether you should have taken the 1,500 rebate or the 0% financing. Generally speaking, putting more down would favor the rebate alternative, small difference in % rate (good credit rating) would favor the rebate alternative, paying the loan off ahead of time would favor the rebate, etc. - let's take the 2010 model year versus the 2009 model year. That's potentially worth a grand difference on tradein, assuming you turn your vehicles over in the 3-5 year timeframe. If you keep your vehicles longer it's worth less, as 10 year old vehicles are valued more on their condition as opposed to their age. For comparitive purposes look at tradein values for a given car with X miles, and then change the year of the vehicle one year. I just did a 2006 Camry SE w/40K miles against a 2007 SE w/40K miles and for my zipcode the clean tradein difference was $1,400. However to be technically accurate, you should discount that amount by the time value of money since those are future dollars, so it would be worth slightly less than that in today's dollars. - New model features. The 2010 engine is more powerful, it's a 6 speed transmission vs. 5 speed, and VSC is now standard. I don't know whether those are important to you (or your tradein buyer), or not. Some folks will say to never buy a first year model of any brand. This really isn't a first year model, but it is a new engine so you may be avoiding problems by buying the 2009. On the other hand, when I bought mine I wanted VSC so paid an extra 500+ or so for it to get that option, so to me....the VSC alone is worth more. To me, I'm perfectly happy with the power and transmission of the 2007-2009, so it would be nice to have but probably would only be 'worth' to me say 500. So to me in total, I'd value the 2010 drive train package at perhaps $1K over the 2009. Whether any of those are important to YOU (that you'd be willing to pay for if given the choice), only you can answer. Could be you don't care at all and it's worth zero to you, or could be it's worth 2k to you. - Your urgency to buy. Your time and effort in finding and negotiating a deal is worth something to you. I'm sure if you researched for ever and checked every dealership you could save some money over your deal, but at what additional cost and aggravation to you. Nobody but you can place a value on your time and aggrevation levels. So yes, you could have done better, but only you have enough info to put a $$ amount on it. But quite frankly, it really doesn't matter any more. Once you drove it over the dealership curb you own it, you paid what you paid. Don't worry about things that you have no control over anymore. Enjoy your vehicle!
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