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Sedans Toyota Camry Toyota Camry Owners: Meet the Members
108 messages, Last post on Feb 25, 2009 at 8:30 PM
You are in the Toyota Camry Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Hey guys: I recently bought a '01 Camry with 44 k on it. This is my 1st camry and hope it would stay with me for many years! |
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Hi all, Just wondering if damage would occur if I start and stop the engine too often? Eg. Go into a milk bar to get some cigie, so the engine is turned off for a minute or two then turned back on again.
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Replying to: rainyday (Oct 11, 2005 2:47 am)
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Replying to: haefr (Oct 11, 2005 5:51 pm) 
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Replying to: rainyday (Oct 11, 2005 2:47 am) |
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G'day, I have a 2002 V6 Camry, which I bought in Aug 2002. I am happy with it apart from a couple of minor problems. I live in a country town and do about 25000miles a year, mostly on country roads and a bit on dirt roads. I did it through a salary sacrafice/lease deal through work and the lease runs out in Aug 2006. I don't know whether I will get another one or not. The performance is good, petrol mileage is a bit of a disappointment, but the lack of clearance is a bit hard to come to grips with, especially on our backroads (holed the auto trans sump,125 miles from the nearest town, $1500 later) and the strange handling from a front wheel drive car is not to my liking. Magic carpet ride on good roads though. My windows fog up the minute I turn off the air con. Even when its cold, I have to run the air in conjunction with the heater. Whats the go? I posted this elsewhere, but can't find it.
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Replying to: mozzzaaah (Oct 29, 2005 9:52 pm) Hello to "down-under" from "up-over"! (I presume the translation of "What's the go?" to the American idiom is, "What's up with that?". ) Cold weather window fogging isn't unusual at all. The glass areas are subject to constant cooling in cold weather since they're directly exposed to chilled outside air. Glass is a pretty good conductor of heat (or lack thereof). If there's ANY moisture within the cabin, (and there WILL be since our breath is laden with moisture - it's the way our metabolism operates!) The problem is exacerbated further if the outside air is humid or under drizzly and rainy conditions and fresh air is being cycled through the cabin. Ditto if you were caught in the rain and your clothing is wet.) In short, whatever its source, moisture will condense on the coolest surface(s) available - can't be helped. By engaging the A/C compressor, the cabin air is continually dehumidified by directing it to the even colder evaporator coils (just a bit above freezing) which efficiently condense the moisture for ellimination through the heater core/evaporator case drain tube to the ground below. In the American midwest and southeast, particularly noted for VERY humid spring-summer weather, it's common to see a steady stream of condensate dribbling from the heater core/evaporator case drain tube onto the ground under the car while idling on a driveway or parking lot. Your car's A/C-ventilation system is operating properly. But, you might want to test that the drain tube isn't plugged by observing whether there's a drip with the A/C on in humid conditions. If there isn't, clear it with a length of stiff wire. The tube is usually plastic or rubber and extends slightly below bottom of the car near the firewall area. The cooperation of your service shop to use its hydraulic lift makes the job much easier. Please don't crawl under the car if it's only being supported by a tire-change jack. Your first mistake with this arrangement will be your last. (The law of gravity applies even "down-under". . .)
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Replying to: mdgurl23 (Jul 08, 2005 1:56 am) Just joined the forum - just purchased a 2001 Camry LE Oct. 22nd. Now...my engine light is on. Someone told me it was probably me not screwing in the gas cap tight (came on two days after I filled up). It has been two days since I screwed in on tight and the engine light is still on. What advice did you get from your message? Does it cost a lot to get a diagnosis? Your comments welcomed. I love the car, it runs well, only 9,580 miles when I bought it for $9,500! A great deal - I think - now I'm a bit worried. Thanks for your help.
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Replying to: cccamry (Nov 01, 2005 4:48 pm) 1> when you replace the fuel filler cap, don't go by what "feels" tight; tighten it until it clicks several times, and don't worry about breaking something - there's a built-in ratchet to allow loud clicking that can be heard over traffic din. When you hear the clicking, that's your cue that the cap is really properly tightened. 2> most autoparts chain stores (Pep Boys, Advance Auto, Autozone, etc.) will do a fault code read for you free. It only takes a few moments with the hand-held computer reader that plugs into the dash wiring harness. (You can even buy the things, but they're a rather expensive toy for the infrequent use a car owner is apt to give them.) Armed with the codes you can then decide where you want to take your car for service. |
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Replying to: cccamry (Nov 01, 2005 4:48 pm) |
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