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12 messages, Last post on Jun 18, 2006 at 12:10 PM
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http://www.discounttiredirect.com/shockwave/interactive.dtd.html You may have to call them on which if any are hubcentric. If I remeber correctly, only one or two manufacturers make hubcentric for the rado.... |
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but....I haven't looked at my wheels so I don't know if the holes are beveled and the lugs tapered. But on the old "hole-centric" wheels that's how they "center". The new wheels being hub-centric I would assume don't need tapered lug-nuts. So IF they are that way it would be any easy way to tell them apart. Anybody know what the holes look like on our new wheels? And does this make any sense? |
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You probably also should go over and check on the Aftermarket & Accessories message board as well!
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I'll check them out. I have a line on some take-off Avalanche rims, but not sure that they look that much different than my stock alum. wheels, guess if I'm going to spend the cash for new tires and wheels, I'd like something that'll stand out. Another question, what is affected if say I were to put on a larger diameter tire than my stock 255/70-16's other than the speedo reading incorrectly? |
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| how much are they wanting for the av rims? | |
| Centerline and Weld both make hubcentric wheels. I had to do some research on this because I had purchased a set of wheels that were not hubcentric, and I ended up with a vibration problem. The first wheel I purchased was a Progressive, and they went out of business. I found that centerline offers many good choices of hubcentric wheels. I now have a set of Centerline wheels that are hubcentric and they do not vibrate. Hubcentric wheels do have tapered lug holes, and you will have to purchase aftermarket lug nuts to use on the aftermarket wheels. The reason for this is that the factory lug nuts have a different pitch on the taper and do not seat in the aftermarket wheel properly. I prefer billet wheels, they are easier to care for than forged wheels. The aluminum on forged wheels seems to be more porous than billet and tend to oxidize easier, thus causing the owner to polish the wheels more often to maintain that mirror like shine. The best back spacing I have found is a 4-5/8 or a 4-11/16 in an 8" X 16" wheel. Here are two different sites to check out... http://www.centerlinewheels.com and http://www.weldracing.com/explorer.html | |
| Av take-offs going for $400-500, without tires, place will sell with tires for $900. I wish I could get a good pic of a pickup with the Av wheels on to make a final decision, since I could be running those wheels w/ new tires for about $1100, where as aftermaket rims will drive the cost up considerably. | |
| Search for Avalanche in eBay motors, place has a set of Av rims that can be bought now for $500 if interested. | |
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| I use Budnik billet wheels on my C1500 2WD. Alan Budnik can set you up with any width and back spacing. He'll also recommend a combo for your setup. Mine are bare aluminum and have screw-on center caps. I think you can get them coated too. Much better than Boyds or Centerlines. A of 4 should set you back about $2000. www.budnik.com | |
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Hello: I'm wondering if anyone has experience with Ace Alloy wheels? Are they good quality? Did you have any problems with bending them or with balancing them? Anything else I should be concerned about in considering them? I'm considering purchasing a set of Ace "Allure" wheels for an Infiniti M35, and have had a hard time finding any opinions about them at all. Thanks for any feedback! Larry |
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