Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
Smart Shopper Out The Door (OTD) Pricing questions
228 messages, Last post on Sep 07, 2009 at 1:13 PM
You are in the Smart Shopper Forum. Your Hosts are kirstie_h & tidester
|
When you present a dealer with your absolute lowest OTD price (ha!)--what does that actually include? I need it spelled O-U-T for me: i.e. advertising fees, Title fees? Filing fes? etc etc etc....what? Do I include those all in my OTD price? or is that extra? how do I know what is a "reasonable" advertising fee? etc....Am I just spinning my wheels? Should I just find the Edmunds TMV and subtract $500 or should I spend all this time looking up these tedious details? Thanks |
|
|
It is probably best to concentrate on the price of the car that you want, rather than an OTD price. Over and above the price of the car there should be the following: Sales Tax, DMV Registration, a reasonable($45-$75)Document Fee, and any State applied fees. For example, in California we have a $5.00 *Tire Fee*, and a $6.00 Smog Fee. This is it...no ups & no extras... You can find out from your local AAA or DMV what should be standard stuff in your state. Ad Fees are Regional and can range from 0 to $300+, but these are included in the price of the car, and should not be added in afterward. |
|
| Out the door price includes everything, including all fees, sales tax, registration fee, and license fees. Everything. | |
| I will have to respectfully disagree with vwguild. While I agree that state tax, registration, reasonable doc fees, and state fees are essentially 'fixed' fees, I would still be concerned with OTD price. This price is like fpereira said, the cost of everything. There are too many confusing things the dealer can add (ie other overhead etc). Do your research, find out your OTD price and stick to your guns. As a consumer, I dont care how the dealer calculates my OTD price, all I care about is my out-of-pocket expense. | |
|
wrong about the advertising fees. For example, Toyota adds ad fees to the invoice number that you will find on Edmunds. The ad fees are on the actual invoice from Toyota, and they are part of the cost of the vehicle to us. You will also read about the dealer holdback. Usually the holdback is not part of the "on line" invoice prices, but it is part of the car's cost when we buy it. Doc fees are something that I (as a salesman/manager) have no control over. You then have sales tax, tag fee to the DMV, and that is it (at my dealership, anyway). I think the bottom line is to compare "out the door" numbers between different dealerships, and if you find one $500 or so cheaper than the other, ask the more expensive one for a breakdown/explanation if you want to give them a crack at your business. Ed |
|
| Out the Door is just that. It is the price you pay when you drive the car out the door. The out the door price includes all taxes and fees. It is the amount you actually write the check for. If oyu are financing or leasing it includes the total money due at delivery, not just the down payment and what the payment you will actually be making every month. | |
| Help me out here!!!! | |
|
The amount on the check you write or the bottom line on the financing contract. It includes sales tax, delivery and handling (if the dealer has it), and doc fee. At least at the dealer I worked at. All you have to worry with is the license fee, if the dealer doesn't collect it for the state. If you are shopping for OTD price. The TMV is only the starting point, you have to add the above fees, which are legit. If the OTD price is higher than you like, look somewhere else. |
|
|
Okay - let's say the dealer has some legit fees, be they advertising or floorspace or port fees or whatever. As a buyer, I want to know what these fees are from the start - I don't want to be blindsided by them after I thought I negotiated the final price. That's just the dealer being sneaky and betting you won't walk away after investing so much time. For example, let's say you spend a half hour negotiating and the dealer's final offer is about $100 more than you wanted to pay. But you figure, $100 isn't so big in the scheme of things and it's not *too* bad a price, so you accept. Then, after an additional 30-60 minutes of paperwork stuff, they hit you with an additional $100 processing fee. Suddenly the okay deal is a bad deal. I know a lot of dealers would say that a customer was nickel and diming them over $100, but the fact is that the customer in this situation already went over their budget by $100, so now we're talking $200. So now, if the dealer won't budge on the deal, you have wasted about an hour of your time. Sorry to rant, but I've been in this situation before and it just seems like an insult to my intelligence. |
|
|
|
|
An OTD price ought to include: 1) Car Price. If there's an advertising charge on the invoice, then it ought to be included in the sale price of the car. I.E. Say there's a $200 regional advertising charge and you're paying $500 over, then it ought to be, say, $700 over what you see on the net. 2) Any DMV/Tag/License/etc fees 3) State sales tax 4) County surtax if applicable 5) Any dealer prep fees. I.E. "This car is $20,565, OTD it's $22,107.45 Or whatever. It ought to be the amount of the check you have to write. Bill |
|
You are here:
Forums
Smart Shopper Out The Door (OTD) Pricing questions
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats
