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#971 of 1953 Removing Original Ford Oil Filter
Jan 21, 2005 (9:46 am)
It worked out that we have had several new Fords the last few years (due to wife's accident, etc.) I have found that it is nearly impossible to remove the oil filter on 4.6 and 5.4 engines at home. (I usually pick up the excellent 5W-20 synthetic blend Motorcraft oil at Wal-Mart and change my own and recycle the used). When I was ready to change the first time on my 2004 Expedition, the oil filter just would not budge with the tools I had or could buy. After breaking my old favorite Motorcraft style filter wrench, I took the vehicle to a Valvoline quick change place. The manager assured me no problem for their pros. After about 30 minutes of trying every filter wrench they had and the manager getting down in the Valvoline pit to help, they got it off. What are the Ford engine plants doing here? Factory robot impact wrench and dry gasket? Hey FMC, this costs us time and money. And, the Valvoline shop certainly didn't make anything on my first visit due to time wasted.
As an aside, I was surprised that the local Valvoline manager did not have the 5W-20 Ford spec oil. (Honda and a few others use it too). The manager on his own saved one of my empty 5W-20 Motorcraft quart bottles and said he would find out more. Ford has used the 5W-20 in most light duty vehicles except maybe the 4.0L V-6 in Explorer and Ranger since the 2001 model. Honda maybe longer than that. Just a couple of years ago Wal-Mart only had the one Motorcraft selection, but now carries 5W-20 with the Ford, Honda spec in three or four national brands.
Any similar experiences trying to get Ford OEM oil filters to back off?
#972 of 1953 Re: Removing Original Ford Oil Filter [fx4]
Jan 21, 2005 (3:28 pm)
Your story reminded me of the same problem with my '78 F-150 351. Had a wrench that fit the indents on the end of the filter. The filter was so tight that the side of the can started twisting up. Went to Sears in the other vehicle and bought one of the outside gripper types which I slid down as close to the base as it would go. Then used both wrenches at the same time to break it loose. Have bought 6 Fords since then without having the problem again.
Jan 21, 2005 (3:51 pm)
I had that same problem on a 77 Oldsmobile I bought new once, and also on a 73 Mazda. I don't think it's indemic to only Ford. Any robotic applied new Oil Filter will be applied without a bead of oil on the gasket, and will fry on hard. For the first oil change, take it in to the dealer. Saves a ton of trouble. That's what I do, no matter what the car is.
#974 of 1953 Re: [nvbanker]
Jan 24, 2005 (9:08 am)
That's what I did with her 2001 Explorer Sport and 2003 Explorer 4dr XLT. Provides a Ford dealer record that the first oil change was on time with proper oil and filter.
What did you think about my comment about the 5W-20 spec (don't have the actual spec in front of me). Old habits amongst do-it-yourselfers are hard to change. No need to read the owner's manual, 10W-30 or bust. Ha! I forget to mention that much of the $4.50 and higher per quart 0W-30 or 5W-30 in many brands of full synthetic probably would have the above 5W-20 spec covered.
I just do some work at home to have something to do on the weekends. Have a nice oil lube compressor and impact wrench, floor jack, and stands. Save lots of time and money rotating my three vehicles tires. Avoid all the vehicle drop off and pickup as few tire stores have any kind of fast lane service for rotation only. Also avoid repeated improper lug nut torque settings by Ford dealers and tire stores(also have had missing studs, missing lug nuts, scratched hubcaps, frequent improper tire pressures, and on and on at the dealers and stores). No better at Ford dealers than local tire stores--ongoing problem due to low skill, don't care attitude of new hire types who get stuck with tire rotation. Little or no shop manager quality control anywhere.
Tire store or auto dealer of course is mandatory if any tire rebalancing or tire repair is needed.
#975 of 1953 Re: Car turns off, after starting [gwjune2001]
Jan 24, 2005 (8:26 pm)
sounds like you may have trouble with what they call a fast idle switch i think. If not that then have the dealer check the computer. not sure what to tell you
#976 of 1953 Re: [fx4]
Jan 25, 2005 (4:13 pm)
You forgot to mention the quick-lube places who sometimes over-tighten and strip threads on oil drain plugs. Happened to my friend's Honda; cost $400 to replace the pan and since he used several quick-lube shops couldn't prove which one it was. I also change my own oil- always have, probably always will.
Jan 25, 2005 (5:20 pm)
Most mechanics I know laugh at the 5W-20 spec these days, thinking that 10W-40 is still the only oil made. Even if I requested what the car called for, I'm sure they flipped me off when I left and pumped her full of good old 10W-40 when I wasn't looking. LOL
#978 of 1953 vibration on 03 expedition, bad tire?
Jan 25, 2005 (6:13 pm)
I was just wondering if anyone else out there has had any problems with continental contitrac suv tires on their expedition? I have had the continental sports before and they were fine, but my newest expediton has the contitracs, and the tire shop found a bad tire on the left rear drivers side. I was going in for a tire balance on all 4 tires when they discovered this one was seperating. You can actually see the seperation and the bulge in the tire. I noticed a slight vibration that was new recently when driving. and this was what they found? I am ordering a new tire to replace. Anyone had this experience before? Has anyone had experience getting the tires replaced under warranty? I am not close(driving distance) to the town where the vehicle was purchased? should I contact the tire manufacturer? any comments would be appreciated, thanks
#979 of 1953 Re: 4X4 Lights on dash [teldoc]
by ford 4x4
Jan 25, 2005 (9:24 pm)
4x4 light will not come on in 4auto. not even when there is little traction and the 4x4 is engaged.
Jan 26, 2005 (1:49 pm)
I think everyone has. It happens all the time!