Last post on May 24, 2013 at 11:56 AM
You are in the Prices Paid - Buying & Leasing Experiences
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Nissan Altima, Sedan
#3258 of 3455 Re: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5S [athiaga99]
Aug 09, 2012 (9:27 pm)
Wait until 4PM on September 30th, the last day of the quarter when commissions and bonuses are calculated. If you're paying cash, write your one and only offer on a check but leave it unsigned, undated and keep the payee field blank. Assuming the dealer has the car you want, hand him the check and say, "Do you want this or should I bring it to another dealer?" Give him ten minutes and tell him you want a yes or a no, nothing else. If he doesn't say yes, walk out. I guarantee he'll chase you to your car if you do. If he accepts your offer, write the specific VIN on the check to ensure no monkey business.
#3259 of 3455 Re: Bogus Altima Prices [growing_credit]
Aug 10, 2012 (1:03 pm)
Well, I can understand putting a small deposit down, like $250 or $500 bucks if your ordering the car as the dealership doesn't want to go through the time and hassle of ordering one just to have it come in and you decide not to take it. I would though, always get in writing that the deposit is refundable if the car is not at the dealership within a certain period of time, i.e. 5 wks say. That way, you can take your money and go somewhere else if they don't honor that timeframe or deal.
Those two Nissan dealers were price gouging and hosing me as I found two other Nissan dealers in central NJ willing to sell me a loaded 3.5SL for 29,365 which was roughly 3k off msrp, but then it fell through when they told me it had to be a car from their lot or one they could find already out. They weren't going to give me that deal if they had to order it.
Suffice it to say, when I'm paying that kind of money on a car and buying it, you damn well better believe I'm getting the color combo, packages, and accessories I want or no deal.
I'm sick with Nissan's games so when my Maxima lease is up next month, I'm going to another automaker, probably Lexus, Acura, Audi, or BMW.
Its a shame Nissan and customer loyalty means absolutely nothing, but thats the way it is in the greedy sales world.
Aug 10, 2012 (3:55 pm)
Belwah87 what is the name of the dealer in no virginia that you purchased you car from. Thanks for the assistance.
#3261 of 3455 Re: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5S [seolbro]
Aug 11, 2012 (12:21 am)
So I went back to another dealer and asked if they can beat the price. I walked out with a new Nissan Altima 2013 2.5S for
$20200 + taxes/fees = $22258 OTD.
I took NMAC finance for 4.99% but will pay in full after 90 days. Just took financing to get the price down.
#3262 of 3455 Proud owner
Aug 11, 2012 (2:15 pm)
Ended up getting the 2012 3.5SR with Sport, Premium, and Technology packages for $25,800 (MSRP $33,315) in Northern NJ. Feel pretty good about it - with taxes and fees, $28,800 out the door. Only thing is the relatively high interest rate - 3.5% w/ Nissan finance. While qualifying for the .9% for 60mo promotion, I would've lost the rebates and cashback incentives.
#3263 of 3455 Re: Dealer's Name [zip91498]
Aug 11, 2012 (3:42 pm)
For some reason I'd rather not say. I put a lot of time and effort into buying this car and negotiating that price, which is how I think I got the deal that I got. I will say that the dealers with whom I had mostly straightforward email interactions included, in alphabetical order, Brown's, Carmax, Darcars, Fitzgerald, Pohanka of Salisbury, Rosenthal, and Sheehy (although two of those were worse than the others in terms of not giving complete quotes without my pushing them, or not giving competitive quotes--and the quotes of some were so high that I didn't pursue them further--but at least I felt that I could work with the Internet salespeople at all of these dealers.).
Cowles never replied to my request for a price quote even though I contacted them twice---either they don't respond to requests for internet quotes or their "contact a dealer" link on their website is not working properly.
My experience with Passport and Koons was not positive---contacting them via email was a frustrating waste of my time--someone else may have better luck with them--I gave both of those dealers feedback to that effect.
Hope this helps, and good luck!
#3264 of 3455 Re: Dealer's Name [belwah87]
Aug 11, 2012 (5:08 pm)
For some reason I'd rather not say. I put a lot of time and effort into buying this car and negotiating that price, which is how I think I got the deal that I got.
The object of people posting the deals they got AND the dealers name is so that others won't have to work quite as hard at negotiating and where to specifically go for a good deal.
#3265 of 3455 Re: Dealer's Name [m6user]
Aug 11, 2012 (5:45 pm)
I know that, and I spent a lot of time making that a useful response to anyone looking for an altima in the dc area. I provided guidance as to where to go. I provided a lot of valuable information about which dealers had decent Internet sales and which didnt. Maybe another of the dealers that I mentioned will offer an even better price than I got when another edmunds member tries to purchase...dealers' willingness to offer good price quotes seems to vary from day to day as the market changes..after all fitzmall is now$500 below invoice on the 2.5sl--that's a $1000 price drop just since last weekend, when I bought my car. In fact, just a little leg work/research will make it obvious which dealer I purchased from. This isn't just about naming dealers...if someone approaches my salesman with a statement that they want that car for $26900 out the door without building a relationship first like i did, I suspect that they would get a resounding 'no'.
#3266 of 3455 2013 vs 2012 Altima
Aug 12, 2012 (1:31 pm)
I test drove the 2013 Altima SL vs a well-optioned 2012 SL and the 2013 version is so much better. Based on that data I drove a HARD BARGAIN on a 2012 Altima. The dealerships know they must move this inventory.
I'll post my deal here but let's just say that previous buyers are spot on with $6500-$7000 off MSRP. Forget the dealer sticker. Look at the actual MSRP then subtract $7000. That's the offer.
Then, you must "negotiate" the dealer fee with the various dealers. I paid my dealer fee but Got a Spoiler and Aluminum Kick Plates (dealer has to install still) for just $200 (installed).
Overall, the 2013 is a killer car and worth every penny of $2500-$3000 over a 2012 version. But, I chose to save that 3,000 and just get a 2012 SL. Once I have the car in my hands I'll post more about my EXACT numbers.
What I can warn you about are the LIES that dealers tell about Invoice. Most will only give you $5K off a 2012 Altima including the rebates; but, the high volume dealers will give you $7K off.
Hence, you must find a HIGH VOLUME DEALER and check the inventory.
I think once Nissan puts a $1,000 customer cash incentive on the 2013s later this year the Altimas will fly off the lots. There is NO BETTER CAR in this segment than the 2013 Altima.
I've driven the Kia Optima (EX, SX), Toyota Camry, Hond Accord, etc. and while they nice the smooth V-6 of the Altima combined with better seats, better visibility, etc. makes the Altima the one to beat.
I like my 2012 Altima SL but the 2013 Altima is a vastly improved car which is the best in its category.
#3267 of 3455 Re: 2013 vs 2012 Altima [valueguy]
Aug 12, 2012 (6:02 pm)
In order to get my deal of $7000 off MSRP I had to contact 6 dealerships.
One tried the bait and switch game with me ( "you wanted a loaded SL. oh, I thought you wanted a BASE Altima") while 2 others would only give $6K off MSRP.
One flat out said "5500 is the Max off MSRP with all the rebates" then called me back a day later to increase the offer to $6,000 off.
2 dealers really wanted my business and I think that a true cold-hearted SOB could have bled them dry feeding off each other. In the end I got the car I wanted at a cool $7K off MSRP for a SL with Audio package, Convenience package, Convenience plus package and a few minor dealer items.
This process took me at least 10-12 hours of my time (my wife says 20 hours was more like it) so be prepared for a long haul to get that $7K off MSRP instead of $5500. Pethaps, you can try the FAX method but then you must still call them back and haggle over the phone for an hour. Then, call the other dealer and haggle some more. If you aren't careful both dealers will cease bargaining with you as they will see you won't be buying from them (they see that this game never ends as well). You will be asked "What price will you buy the car from me and do I have your word that if I get you that deal then you will buy the car?" If you say "yes" then in all probability you won't be able to call back and haggle much more with them.
Good luck with the deal and remember use the actual MSRP to start from and not some dealer sticker.