Last post on May 06, 2013 at 12:49 PM
You are in the Nissan Altima
What is this discussion about?
Nissan Altima, Sedan
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#2678 of 2702 Tachometer & rpm issues
Jul 13, 2012 (3:56 pm)
I bought a 2012 Nissan Altima 2.5S Coupe (auto transmission) and I've had it for about a little more than a week now. Since I'm not really familiar with the CVT transmission and I'd never heard of it prior to buying the car, I was hoping to get a second opinion from this forum. I've been noticing that the arrow on the Tachometer behaves differently than my previous car or maybe it's just me (given that I'm not an expert on cars). When I accelarated, it seemed to me that the transmission was struggling a little between shifts and the RPMs were not corresponding with the miles. One thing that really throws me off is that when I drive at 65mph the tachometer drops down to between 1000-2000 rpm. Being used to my previous car, I though that it's a little unusual for the arrow to drop down so low. I brought the car to the Nissan Service Shop and the guys over there told me that this is because of the CVT transmission. They said that (and I quote) , "with the CVT transmission you almost can't feel the shifts between gears" and that "it's normal for it to do that". My question is is this true and how does this CVT transmission work exactly? If anyone has an answer to this question, I'd really appreciate it! Thanks guys!
#2679 of 2702 Re: Tachometer & rpm issues [snuff8]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Jul 14, 2012 (1:09 pm)
Here's a video that demonstrates a simple CVT on a motorscooter--it's not quite the same as your car but the principle is the same.
From what you describe, the behavior is normal because there isn't an abrupt gear change.
#2680 of 2702 Another 2005 Altima rusted floor boards problem
Jul 15, 2012 (10:10 am)
I'm another casualty of the 2005 Altima rust through with the floor boards.
Car has 85,000 miles, has been garaged since new and is perfect condition except for rusting floor boards. I had this problem with a 15 year old high mileage Corolla but never expected it with a 7 year old, low mileage, garaged vehicle. I even consciously rinse out the undercarriage whenever washing and especially in the spring to rinse out salt.
Dealer pointed out the problem with the last oil change and inspection and said it was probably caused by rocks chipping the metal. BULL.
From reading some forums it seems that this is a common problem but that that some few people have had some success with the dealers covering this. I'm not encouraged but will give it a try then call Nissan Customer Affairs (good luck) then file a complaint with the many others on NHTSB web site:
I would recommend anyone with the same problem to file a complaint. Only the NHTSB can order a recall/fix.
#2681 of 2702 Re: Tachometer & rpm issues [Mr_Shiftright]
Jul 15, 2012 (2:49 pm)
Thank you very much!
#2682 of 2702 UPDATE on repairs to rusted through floorboards
Jul 21, 2012 (8:40 am)
There have been some who have speculated that this is a moisture on the inside problem with salt and water from the winter or backed up air conditioner hose. Mine has rubber floor mats and has never had a drop of water on the inside and the AC pipe is clear. I pulled up the passenger side mat and floor boards were gone. There is a double wall floor board and the hole was in the bottom layer but it was easy to poke through all the way. It appears that the inside is not welded but is attached with some kind of rubbery goop that has a silvery blue color on the top. I suspect that this is the basic cause of the problem since once I cut out the rusted area (below this stick on goop) the rest of the floor boards seemed solid. The dealer wanted $550 to fix it one side so I did it myself. It's not too bad a DIY project.
(1) Cut out the bad area with a sawsall. It was about 18 in by 10 in. The surrounding are seemed solid
(2) Fit in a 12x18 piece of sheet metal that I got at Home Depot
(3) Attach with steel pop rivets.
(4) Seal the inside with silicon caulking to keep out moisture and fumes
(5) Spray the bottom with several coats of undercoat spray to seal the new piece to the hole in the outer piece
(6) Total cost: Less than $20. I already had the sawsall and pop rivet gun
I was thinking of attaching another piece of sheet metal from the bottom by attaching it to the top piece but thought that this would make it more likely to have water trapped. There is still a hole in the outer layer but the floor boards are solid. My only concern is that the undercoat spray I got was not very thick and I'm not sure if it has sealed all the voids with the hole in the outer layer. I'll shop around for something thicker.
I used a tube of roofing tar / driveway sealer to fill in the voids where the bottom layer of metal connects to the patch galvanized steel installed from the top. This seemed to have the right consistency to fill the voids and make a watertight seal. I worked it in with a rubber glove. After seeing this I would probably skip the undercoat except to cover the galvanized steel to make it look better or spray it on after using the roofing tar.
I checked the driver side and it is clean and pristine with no hint of rust. I did not see any plugs that could fall out. I didn't pull up the mat but I suspect the driver side does not have the rubbery goop that has a silvery blue color on the top to hold in the top panel.
I've declared victory!!!
#2683 of 2702 2006 head gasket replaced and no oil on dipstick
Aug 19, 2012 (11:13 am)
i replaced the head gasket at the dealer 2months ago (which they told me they put new coolant, and oil), so I assume i don't need any oil change, right? But this morning when I check the dipstick, there was no oil, not even one drop of oil on the dipstick!!! I didn't know how long did i drive the car without oil, but i didn't feel or hear anything weird when i drive.. now at goodyear waiting and hopefully i didn't burn the engine.... in the meantime, in these 4/5 years i own this car, i had to replace a leaked hose/watertank, the shift canister, head gasket, motor mounts, upper and lower tube (couple months ago), the strut(?), and more minor things that i couldn't remember... IS THIS NORMAL ON A 2006??? I'm almost up to a point to trade it in.....
#2684 of 2702 Re: Alternator light and Brake light fail to go off [krisaltima]
Sep 05, 2012 (5:51 pm)
Hello, I recently found out, that is the attention getter, to let you know your alternator is going bad, i had it checked, and it was, have it check at Advanced auto or autozone for free
#2685 of 2702 Excessive gas consumption, stumped
Sep 09, 2012 (12:53 pm)
I have a 1995 Nissan Altima, 195000 miles, it has gone from an ave of 22mpg to 48 miles per quarter tank, this started about 2 months ago, last month, i changed the air and fuel filter, plugs and wires, and the engine doesn't miss... no change, I've had the codes shot, ignition on, and running, the only code is a knock sensor, I would appreciate any help
#2686 of 2702 Something wired wrong
Sep 09, 2012 (12:55 pm)
Another issue, electrical, 1995 Altima, when i start my car, the marker lights and taillights come on, with my headlights on, if i cut the car off, the stereo, lights, windshield wipers all stay on until i turn the headlights off, could someone tell me which wires to look for
#2687 of 2702 Re: Nissan Altima 2008 Transmission [muneeb737]
Oct 13, 2012 (11:54 pm)
I have nissam altima 2008 2.5s with the same problem ... the computer cuts of the gas pedal and does not allow it over 140 km/h when i use the automatic or manual drive and cuts the gas at 130 km/h when i use the cruse drive.
i tested my car in nissan company with there computer (consult 3) and showed no problem !!!!!!!!
so ... what is the soution ... do u have one for this problem?!?