Last post on Oct 01, 2013 at 12:36 PM
You are in the Nissan Altima
What is this discussion about?
Nissan Altima, Sedan
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153
#2673 of 2710 Re: nissan altima 04 [parkerparker]
May 15, 2012 (4:13 am)
I have a 2005 altima and have taken to the dealership for the same problem since we had it. When it is cold outside, I can't start the car up ahead of time cause the air blows out cold?? Once you ride around it will heat up but if you stop at a light it will go back cold again.
Now here a month ago, I was just driving down the interstate and the air starts blowing full blast? The climate control knob seems as it is stripped??
Frustrating I know, I guess it could be something worst perhaps like a transmission or bad engine?? Still totally blows, cause the first problem has yet to be fixed....(
#2674 of 2710 Re: I plan to call Nissan soon [maxamillion1]
May 15, 2012 (4:16 am)
I have a pretty similiar issue as well?? since I have had the vehicle, the radio want work if I turn on the rear defrost? The dealership basically told me not to use the rear defrost....go figure???
#2675 of 2710 Re: 2005 Nissan Altima Climate Control Knob [latonyasharpe]
May 15, 2012 (4:19 am)
Di you ever figure out what was wrong?? My car just did the same thing within the past couple of months?? Air stays on Full blast while car is running:((
#2676 of 2710 Re: Random - Sun visor replacement [99altima]
May 30, 2012 (8:02 pm)
I found myself frustrated with this annoying and potentially dangerous issue on my wife's car, but I couldn't find that part anywhere on the internet either, unless I wanted to spend a lot to replace the entire visor. Taking matters into my own hands, I have come up with a home-made solution. I just did this on my own and it works! (see photo) If yours broke in the same manner that mine did, leaving the back portion of the sleeve in place (see photo), you can do this to yours. First, you're going to need a few simple tools:
a) phillips screw driver
b) approx 1/16" diameter metal wire (I used picture-hanging wire)
c) exact-o knife / razor blade
d) needle-nose pliers
e) electric drill w/ approx 1/16" drill bit
Nissan Altima Sun Visor Fix Photo
I know it's kind of rigged, but if you're handy, you should be able to look at the picture and see what I did. Also, here's a shot an explaining the process: The idea is to re-join the bracket and the visor post using two wires, without the post slipping out of the broken bracket, so you need to have some of the part of the bracket that surrounds the post in-tact for this to work. After removing the bracket, I drilled a hole through the two little flanges behind the broken part of the bracket to hold the lower wire in place. I wrapped two 3" pieces of wire around the bracket, one on top, just under the head of the post, and one about 1/2" under that. Then, marked where the wires were touching the plastic and temporarily removed the wires. At those marks, using an exacto, I made small notches / grooves, about 1/2 of the diameter of the wire deep, where the wire touches the bracket and around the post, to help keep the wire from slipping up or down. The upper wire rests just under the "head"
of the post, so it already has a nice little place to grab. Then, wrap the wires around again, seating them into your notches and tighten with the pliers about three rotations or when it feels really tight. Then, cut off any excess wire, as there is not a lot of room for these when you go to install. Your assembly should resemble mine when finished. this is ready for installation, just screw it back in place and have a great day!
#2677 of 2710 Re: Random - Sun visor replacement [bobwilkinson2]
by Kirstie@Edmunds HOST
May 31, 2012 (7:21 am)
Hi Bob, and welcome to the forums!
Thanks for taking the time to write out such detailed instructions, and for providing a photo. I know you responded to a post from 2007, but I can't tell you how many times people come across info like yours, years later, and find just the fix they were looking for.
#2678 of 2710 Tachometer & rpm issues
Jul 13, 2012 (2:56 pm)
I bought a 2012 Nissan Altima 2.5S Coupe (auto transmission) and I've had it for about a little more than a week now. Since I'm not really familiar with the CVT transmission and I'd never heard of it prior to buying the car, I was hoping to get a second opinion from this forum. I've been noticing that the arrow on the Tachometer behaves differently than my previous car or maybe it's just me (given that I'm not an expert on cars). When I accelarated, it seemed to me that the transmission was struggling a little between shifts and the RPMs were not corresponding with the miles. One thing that really throws me off is that when I drive at 65mph the tachometer drops down to between 1000-2000 rpm. Being used to my previous car, I though that it's a little unusual for the arrow to drop down so low. I brought the car to the Nissan Service Shop and the guys over there told me that this is because of the CVT transmission. They said that (and I quote) , "with the CVT transmission you almost can't feel the shifts between gears" and that "it's normal for it to do that". My question is is this true and how does this CVT transmission work exactly? If anyone has an answer to this question, I'd really appreciate it! Thanks guys!
#2679 of 2710 Re: Tachometer & rpm issues [snuff8]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Jul 14, 2012 (12:09 pm)
Here's a video that demonstrates a simple CVT on a motorscooter--it's not quite the same as your car but the principle is the same.
From what you describe, the behavior is normal because there isn't an abrupt gear change.
#2680 of 2710 Another 2005 Altima rusted floor boards problem
Jul 15, 2012 (9:10 am)
I'm another casualty of the 2005 Altima rust through with the floor boards.
Car has 85,000 miles, has been garaged since new and is perfect condition except for rusting floor boards. I had this problem with a 15 year old high mileage Corolla but never expected it with a 7 year old, low mileage, garaged vehicle. I even consciously rinse out the undercarriage whenever washing and especially in the spring to rinse out salt.
Dealer pointed out the problem with the last oil change and inspection and said it was probably caused by rocks chipping the metal. BULL.
From reading some forums it seems that this is a common problem but that that some few people have had some success with the dealers covering this. I'm not encouraged but will give it a try then call Nissan Customer Affairs (good luck) then file a complaint with the many others on NHTSB web site:
I would recommend anyone with the same problem to file a complaint. Only the NHTSB can order a recall/fix.
#2681 of 2710 Re: Tachometer & rpm issues [Mr_Shiftright]
Jul 15, 2012 (1:49 pm)
Thank you very much!
#2682 of 2710 UPDATE on repairs to rusted through floorboards
Jul 21, 2012 (7:40 am)
There have been some who have speculated that this is a moisture on the inside problem with salt and water from the winter or backed up air conditioner hose. Mine has rubber floor mats and has never had a drop of water on the inside and the AC pipe is clear. I pulled up the passenger side mat and floor boards were gone. There is a double wall floor board and the hole was in the bottom layer but it was easy to poke through all the way. It appears that the inside is not welded but is attached with some kind of rubbery goop that has a silvery blue color on the top. I suspect that this is the basic cause of the problem since once I cut out the rusted area (below this stick on goop) the rest of the floor boards seemed solid. The dealer wanted $550 to fix it one side so I did it myself. It's not too bad a DIY project.
(1) Cut out the bad area with a sawsall. It was about 18 in by 10 in. The surrounding are seemed solid
(2) Fit in a 12x18 piece of sheet metal that I got at Home Depot
(3) Attach with steel pop rivets.
(4) Seal the inside with silicon caulking to keep out moisture and fumes
(5) Spray the bottom with several coats of undercoat spray to seal the new piece to the hole in the outer piece
(6) Total cost: Less than $20. I already had the sawsall and pop rivet gun
I was thinking of attaching another piece of sheet metal from the bottom by attaching it to the top piece but thought that this would make it more likely to have water trapped. There is still a hole in the outer layer but the floor boards are solid. My only concern is that the undercoat spray I got was not very thick and I'm not sure if it has sealed all the voids with the hole in the outer layer. I'll shop around for something thicker.
I used a tube of roofing tar / driveway sealer to fill in the voids where the bottom layer of metal connects to the patch galvanized steel installed from the top. This seemed to have the right consistency to fill the voids and make a watertight seal. I worked it in with a rubber glove. After seeing this I would probably skip the undercoat except to cover the galvanized steel to make it look better or spray it on after using the roofing tar.
I checked the driver side and it is clean and pristine with no hint of rust. I did not see any plugs that could fall out. I didn't pull up the mat but I suspect the driver side does not have the rubbery goop that has a silvery blue color on the top to hold in the top panel.
I've declared victory!!!