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Sedans Nissan Altima Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair
2486 messages, Last post on Nov 22, 2009 at 9:18 AM
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Hello! I’m hoping someone can help me with my mystery ailment. I read previous posts and didn't find my "exact situation". I have a 2003 Nissan Altima 3.5 with 70,000 miles on it. My lights (headlights, internal lights, dashboard, radio display, etc.) are pulsing/flickering/blinking when the engine is running. They seem to pulse with engine revs. They otherwise work fine. 8 months ago my oil change guy noticed my battery (original factory install) was not keeping a good charge and recommended that I replace it. Of course, I didn’t take him up on his advice… So two days ago the light pulsing started and I assumed that it might be the battery (which I needed, anyway). I installed a new battery last night but the lights are still blinking. I almost wish the lights were “completely dead” so I would have a better idea about a fuse or something. The blinking isn’t random – it’s a pattern – so I don’t think it’s a short. There isn’t any engine clicking or anything and I haven’t had any problems starting the car. No “check XYZ” lights are lit up on my dash. I haven’t installed a new anti-theft device or anything like that. I have had satellite radio in the car for three years with no issues. The headlights (and interior lights) aren’t dim but the blinking is driving me crazy. And I'm worried that at some point the engine will have problems and I'll get stranded somewhere. If anyone can point me in the right direction I would appreciate it. Thanks!! JC
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Replying to: car4dell (Dec 13, 2007 10:51 am) The effect of the clutch button is to prevent starting the car. The effect of the brake button is that the brake lights will stay on. It may affect using cruise control too. The buttons (called plungers) are a dealer item but are inexpensive. Getting them installed is tricky. It's awkward to drive around with the brake lights always on, but when you park you'll want to pull the fuse for the relevant circuit so as not to burn out the battery, and put it back in next time you drive. (Seems like there is a third such button but I forgot what it was for. Maybe the cruise control has its own button on the clutch.) |
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Replying to: johnnycashish (Apr 14, 2009 9:21 am) |
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I have a 2003 Altima that is loosing approximately 2 quarts of oil per week. A while back I had the manifold replaced due to a crack. At that time the car was burning about a half a quart to a quart per month. Recently it has gotten extremely worse. I noticed that I was having difficulty starting the vehicle and I was loosing coolant. At the same time the service engine light came on and I began loosing a lot of oil. I brought the vehcile to a mechanic to have it checked. He did a compression test and found that the coolant was shooting out of cylinder 3 causing the ignition difficulties and misfires. Futher tests showed the compression on the head was fine, there were no leaks, and the car is not smoking through the exhaust. He replaced the head gasket and timing chain(which was stretched). The car is still burning oil. Maybe even a little more then it was before. Running out of money and I still owe on my loan. Does anyone have any similar experiences, advice, or possible causes? Please help.
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Replying to: cdubs13 (Apr 19, 2009 3:41 pm) NISSAN ENGINE FAILURES |
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I was getting Code P0400 (EGR Flow) and and it seems to be due to bad/broken/disintegrated foam filter inside the Back Pressure Transducer (BPT) Valve. Once the material from the disintegrated filter in the BPT valve was cleaned up, the EGR system checked OK (used Actron CP9180 Scanner) , and the MIL (check engine light) indicator has not come back since then. Any one has any idea if (where) I can get some foam to cut in the right shape and use that as the filter (I am sure that that driving the car without the filter/foam would cause issues down the road). Local parts stores do carry this item (neither the BPT valve nor the filter/foam). This seems to a dealer item and is sold as the complete assembly ($90 ~$100); the foam/filter is not sold separately. Is this even a good idea to try to buy the foam/filter (to save some good money)? Any help/fedback is appreciated. |
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| My nissan Altima 2003 has a passenger window that will close but immediately reopen 3 to 4 inches any suggestions | |
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Just bought a 2008 w/19000 miles for 15,999 plus tax. It's really clean and nice. They are even fixing a few paint blemished for me. It's not "certified" but I figured that certification wouldn't mean much since it still has 2 years and 17000 miles of warranty left. Am I missing something? ALSO, I thought the oil looked a little darker than it should for recently being changed. It seemed darker near the tip of the stick too. Is this a sign that the previous owner (lease--now thinking he may have skipped maintenance!) or is it possible that it gets a little darker from sitting around? I may even be wrong. It's not black or anything.... I'm going to ask them to change it again. QUESTION is, IF it hadn't been maintained up till now, am I screwed in any way? Should I switch to synthetic? Since it is under warranty, is there anything i should have checked out now? Dealer is fairly large, and seemed really great. (no haggle pricing). I hope it is all as good as it seems! |
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I pasted this information from JD Power's website. Hopw this helps ya. To qualify for our definition of a "certified used" vehicle, the warranty must be backed by the original vehicle manufacturer. The original manufacturer of the vehicle is using its dealer network to inspect the car, determine if it is worth certifying and then offer support for the vehicle for a period of time beyond the original warranty. Not all used cars can qualify for certified pre-owned programs, and terms vary from one brand to the next, but any true certified pre-owned program will include at least a 100-point inspection of the car. If problems are found, the factory-trained technicians will fix it or disqualify the car from the program. The certified warranty protection typically takes effect when the original warranty expires and, like a new car warranty, offers coverage for a certain number of years or miles, whichever comes first. Used cars sold with third-party warranties are sometimes advertised as "certified" but are not truly factory-certified because the authority and expertise of the vehicle's manufacturer is not standing behind the "warranty" in any way. In fact, the term "warranty" may be misleading, as third-party warranties are really just extended service contracts that the buyer must purchase at an additional cost. Extended service contracts can usually be purchased for any vehicle, and the vehicle's manufacturer is not involved in any coverage promised by the aftermarket service contract. A true warranty offers coverage that is included in the original purchase price. The major downside to third-party service contracts is that they often obligate the customer to pay for needed repairs up front, and then wait for a reimbursement check; some require the payment of a deductible that can vary from $50 to $400. In addition, there is always the risk that the insurance company or other underwriter of the service contract will not be around to honor the warranty when a claim is made — this risk is much less when the responsible party is a vehicle manufacturer. Also, most extended service contracts do not require the rigorous inspection and repair procedures that a real certified program offers. |
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Bought our new used Altima 2.5S w/ 19500 miles on Monday night. All was fine during test drive. On the ride home of about 30 miles (my son-the owner driving) he said the tire light w/exclamation point came on. It has stayed on since. It was on dealer lot for about a month or less, before that don't know how long it sat. We checked the pressure about 20 minutes after he got home from school, about 1.5 mile ride and the driver front was 32 and the others were about 37. I think they are the original tires. They are Conti-something. I've read that even though the door says 32, that many people keep them higher. So, is the light most likely on because 3 are over-filled, one is under-filled, or because one of the four doesn't match the other 3?? Never had this type of monitoring system before... Also, I think the back two have more tread than the front two. Have no records on it to speak of. Is it best to rotate them now going into summer. Son drives about 10k year. No idea if they've ever been rotated. I'm thinking that since it's front wheel drive, and the front are more worn that the owner (private lease) might not have ever rotated causing the front to wear more. Does this make proper sense? I want to get him started off right. Thanks |
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