Last post on Oct 01, 2013 at 12:36 PM
You are in the Nissan Altima
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Nissan Altima, Sedan
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#1937 of 2710 1994 Nissan Altima timing?
Apr 04, 2007 (10:15 am)
I have a 1994 Nissan Altima - automatic. I purchased it brand new with 6.5 miles on it. It now has over 298,000 miles on it. I keep up with the maintenance and change the oil about every 2,000 miles with Valvoline 5w30. So far it's been a great car with very few problems. Recently it became hard to start. I did a full tune up on it replacing the original spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, new fuel filter, air filter, and changed the oil and oil filter. The problem persisted. I read through the Hanes manual, pulled out the multi-meter and checked every ignition electrical connection from the battery to the spark plugs. Everything checked out except the coil. I replaced the coil with a brand new coil (hard to find). Now it starts as it should, but it seems to bog down when I press the gas peddle and move from a dead stop. It seems to bog down until it hits about 2500 RPM. Then it picks up and runs well. This leaves me to believe I have a timing or fuel pressure problem. The Hanes manual says the timing should be set at 20 degrees before TDC at idle (600 to 700 RPM). I checked the timing with a timing light and it's about 10 degrees before TDC at at idle (600 to 700 RPM). As far as I know the timing has never been adjusted on my car since the day I purchased it. First question: is it possible for it to slip over time? Secondly, can anyone confirm what it should be set at and what is the best procedure to do so?
#1938 of 2710 Re: 1994 Nissan Altima timing? [raydanley]
Apr 04, 2007 (3:01 pm)
If your car uses a chain like most nissan vehicles, it shouldn't slip. However, with almost 300k miles on it, who knows. thats a lot of miles.
#1940 of 2710 2005 Altima getting P0420 TWC function error
Apr 04, 2007 (6:24 pm)
This error is mentioned elsewhere in the forum, but I didn't see any solutions posted. We are getting a P0420 error on a 2005 Altima, the code list says it is TWC function RH. What does it mean and what needs to be done to correct it?
#1941 of 2710 Re: 2007 Suspension Problem ?????? [mds5254]
Apr 05, 2007 (3:13 pm)
I have the same problem (on a 2007 3.5SL), although it was never anything extreme, just very unusual. I've checked the tire pressure right after the first time, and it was normal. I always assumed that it was some kind of turbulence in the air. Let us know if your dealer has something to say.
I wonder if anyone with 3.5SE ever experienced these "gusts", that model has different tires.
#1942 of 2710 2007 passenger airbag weight sensor problem?
Apr 05, 2007 (3:27 pm)
On my 2007 3.5SL, the "passenger airbag off" light turns on if a passenger (adult) gets into his right front seat before the ignition start. He then has to get up and down on the seat for the weight sensor to figure out his weight and for the light to go off. Does anybody else have this issue? This is not how it's supposed to work, right?
#1943 of 2710 Re: 2007 Suspension Problem ?????? [mm99]
Apr 06, 2007 (10:32 am)
Actually, at 90 mph (on an empty highway at night), this Altima (2007 3.5SL) is downright unstable, jerking left and right as if driving throug the wind, even though there is no wind. My previous Altima (2002 2.5S) did not behave like this at these speeds. There has to be something wrong with the type of stock tires, or even with aerodynamics of the body.
#1944 of 2710 Re: 2007 Suspension Problem ?????? [mm99]
Apr 06, 2007 (2:45 pm)
It's not the body, they test cars extensivly in wind tunnels to prevent that. besides, mine rides perfect at any speed rain or shine. If you didn't cause it yourself (not saying you did) by jumping a curb, or flying down a pothole filled road, It's probably a defect in the tires, a defect in the suspension, or a problem in the stability control system.
anyhow, the car is 4 months old. take it back to the dealership, pick up your rental (assuming you purchased the extended warranty) and let them worry about it.
#1945 of 2710 Re: 2007 Suspension Problem ?????? [jd10013]
Apr 07, 2007 (10:40 am)
I've tried 90 mph on the same highway again, and this night there were no "gusts". It's a pretty long stretch of highway, so I can say that the car behavior was different from last night. It looks like it does depend on the condition of the air, maybe if it's just slightly turbulent, the car has this amplified reaction to it. That is, it may well be the body aerodymanics, they may not have tested it extensively enough.
I'll take the car to the dealer anyhow. And maybe worth trying fatter tires.
#1946 of 2710 Re: 2007 Suspension Problem ?????? [mm99]
Apr 07, 2007 (12:02 pm)
I haven't had enough time on my 3.5SE w/ VDC but I am looking out for this issue. God bless, I have not had it yet!!
Warning: I did not research and I have NOT confirm w/ anyone but strongly suspect the Altima uses the Electric Power Assist Steering design or whatever they call it.
I suspect there is a malfunctioning or worse, inherent problem. I suggest asking to talk to the Nissan rep when he/she is in town so that enquiry with engineering can be considered if you dealer believes there is no issue with your car after it has been checked out.
The following is a good clip to explain how it works. It is basically a manual/mechanical steering system and on top of that, there is a electric motor which joins you to add the steering input to lighten you 'human' effort whenever your mechanical system starts turing and triggers/'tips' off the 'computer' to tell the motor to run. To me, that is partial 'fly by wire' (scary in real life but not on paper). Conceptually, I suspect you(your Altima's steering system) and I hope it is not we as all the owners or Nissan having a broader problem!!! ....your mechanical system is mistriggering; or its electronic/electrical portion due to sensing problem; or electronic interference, or any screw up in design therefore self-trigger, turns on the motor suddenly and sends you a surprising 'wind gust/swing'. I hope I am wrong and it is none of these. It is the fade of OUR LIVES at the mercy of some electrons because it is a less costly design.
Safety consideration when designing? - the engineers probably all convince themselves that our hands are supposed to be on the steering wheel and are still controlling the mechanical system which can overpower any such crazy electric motor malfunction and therefore checked it off as NO RISK. It means, thou shall never just hold you wheel with two fingers and the other hand elsewhere!!!??
This car aleady has no caster effect (steering wheel does not return by itself), it does not hold itself straight on a straigh road, and that makes it much more surprising when it happens. To see what I mean,watch the steering wheel when you are crusing, you turn it lightly left, the wheet will stay there on a left turn until you are in the ditch!!
However, I will not rule out mechanical issue although it is unlikely since something this loose, you will notice. At low speed, jerk you wheel left-right'left-right quickly and over some bumpy road is even better to detect if you steering has any significant 'play' (void/space) when you change direction to indicate a big mechanical gap caused by some linking point not tightened, the steering rack is too far from your pinion, or things like that.
Direct electric steering uses an electric motor attached to the steering rack via a gear mechanism (no pump or fluid). A variety of motor types and gear drives is possible. A microprocessor controls steering dynamics and driver effort. Inputs include vehicle speed and steering, wheel torque, angular position and turning rate.
Working In Detail:
A "steering sensor" is located on the input shaft where it enters the gearbox housing. The steering sensor is actually two sensors in one: a "torque sensor" that converts steering torque input and its direction into voltage signals, and a "rotation sensor" that converts the rotation speed and direction into voltage signals. An "interface" circuit that shares the same housing converts the signals from the torque sensor and rotation sensor into signals the control electronics can process.
Inputs from the steering sensor are digested by a microprocessor control unit that also monitors input from the vehicle's speed sensor. The sensor inputs are then compared to determine how much power assist is required according to a preprogrammed "force map" in the control unit's memory. The control unit then sends out the appropriate command to the "power unit" which then supplies the electric motor with current. The motor pushes the rack to the right or left depending on which way the voltage flows (reversing the current reverses the direction the motor spins). Increasing the current to the motor increases the amount of power assist.
The system has three operating modes: a "normal" control mode in which left or right power assist is provided in response to input from the steering torque and rotation sensor's inputs; a "return" control mode which is used to assist steering return after completing a turn; and a "damper" control mode that changes with vehicle speed to improve road feel and dampen kickback.
If the steering wheel is turned and held in the full-lock position and steering assist reaches a maximum, the control unit reduces current to the electric motor to prevent an overload situation that might damage the motor. The control unit is also designed to protect the motor against voltage surges from a faulty alternator or charging problem.
The electronic steering control unit is capable of self-diagnosing faults by monitoring the system's inputs and outputs, and the driving current of the electric motor. If a problem occurs, the control unit turns the system off by actuating a fail-safe relay in the power unit. This eliminates all power assist, causing the system to revert back to manual steering. A dash EPS warning light is also illuminated to alert the driver. To diagnose the problem, a technician jumps the terminals on the service check connector and reads out the trouble codes.