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3275 messages,  Last post on Oct 18, 2006 at 8:20 PM

You are in the Dodge Ram Forum. Your Host is kcram

What is this discussion about? Dodge Ram Pickup 1500, Dodge Ram Pickup 2500, Dodge Ram Pickup 3500, Truck

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#3257 of 3275 Re: Oil Change/Fuel Filter Change Recommendations for Home Jobs [titanium29] by loncray Oct 05, 2006 (6:42 am)
Replying to: titanium29 (Oct 04, 2006 3:07 pm) Not speaking for Mr. D, but my personal experience with my '03 CTD Ram is to have all oil changes done by the dealer. I wouldn't go to a Jiffy Lube type shop unless they were endorsed by Cummins. Supposedly the fuel filter change IS a quick drop-in but I have always had the dealer do it. Finally, I think 5,000 miles is about right, esp. with light towing. There's almost no way to meet the requirements for the 7,500 mile interval schedule, and I think 3,500 is too often.
#3258 of 3275 Re: Dodge RAM 250 Relay Clicking no start [ram250van] by kcram HOST Oct 06, 2006 (5:25 pm)
Replying to: ram250van (Oct 05, 2006 3:10 am) First thing I'd check is the battery and cables. Sounds like you don't have enough juice.   kcram - Pickups Host Replies to this message: ram250van (Oct 07, 2006 4:39 am)
#3259 of 3275 Re: Dodge RAM 250 Relay Clicking no start [kcram] by ram250van Oct 07, 2006 (4:39 am)
Replying to: kcram (Oct 06, 2006 5:25 pm) Thanks for the reply, already thought of that. It cranks strong so I would disagree. I have also connected a charger to it an that made no difference. I was told by another to check grounds. They said that the relay is given positive and complets the circuit by finding ground. I check and see no loose or disconnected grounds. This morning, key has been in start position for an hour and a half and still nothing. It seems that the system cannot complete its self test and give ok to start until this relay makes connection. It is very strange to me that the cold has anything to do with electrical except for a battery.
#3260 of 3275 '01 to '05 Rear Brake Mod by azram Oct 07, 2006 (1:23 pm)
I have an '01 Ram 1500, 4x4, 5.9l that requires replacement of the rear-end. The axle that I would like to use in place of the original is out of an '05 Ram 1500, 2WD. The '01 has rear drum brakes and the '05 has rear disc brakes. If at all possible I prefer to adapt to the disc system on the newer axle. I realize that I will have to modify the brake lines to hook up to the new callipers, but I'm unsure of what else will need to be modified or replaced to accomodate this change. Any help and ideas are greatly appreciated. I am planning on beginning this axle replacement next weekend. ~Az~ Replies to this message: mac24 (Oct 07, 2006 2:48 pm) azram (Oct 07, 2006 3:54 pm)
#3261 of 3275 Re: '01 to '05 Rear Brake Mod [azram] by mac24 Oct 07, 2006 (2:48 pm)
Replying to: azram (Oct 07, 2006 1:23 pm) I've never done that particular swap (I doubt that many have), but generally when going from drums to discs at the rear you'll need to change the proportioning valve, emergency brake hookup, and possibly the master cylinder.   Make sure also that any ABS/speed sensor in the axle housing is compatible with what you have at the moment.   Finally, as you've a 4x4, it's critically important that the new axle has the same final drive ratio as your old one. Replies to this message: azram (Oct 07, 2006 3:54 pm)
#3262 of 3275 Re: '01 to '05 Rear Brake Mod [mac24] by azram Oct 07, 2006 (3:54 pm)
Replying to: mac24 (Oct 07, 2006 2:48 pm) Thx for responding... I'm hoping not to have to change the master cylinder, as they visually appear to be very similar. Ive been told that the ebrake shouldnt pose much of a challenge and that the ABS sensor will need to be switched from the old axle to the new one. That leaves the proportioning valve. I've heard that this might need to be modified to accomodate the increased pressure required by the disc system, but i've little idea how to go about this. On some vehicles it is as simple as removing the needle valve and spring from the proportioning unit. Not sure if this will work on this switch. As for gearing match between the front and rear, they are slightly different... the new one is 3.95 and the old in 4.10. I rarely use the 4x4, so i plan to change out the gearing in the near future and will refrain from using 4x4 in the mean time. ~Az~
#3263 of 3275 all gauges are out by apetty Oct 09, 2006 (6:14 am)
2002 Dodge ram 1500 quad 4x4, all gauges went out so I called the dealership and the garage told me the price off the top of his head. 550 plus installation and the truck sits for three weeks while they order the dash from the factory. If they have done so many full replacements on this then there should be a friggin recall. Diamler says there isn't a problem but if you look through the message boards you will notice a real problem going on. Needless to say, I need to know if there is an easier solution to fixing this problem. Is there something that I should try first or just buck up and fork out the money and let this moron dealership keep my truck. Don't like this dealership at all. Let me know if anyone has any suggestions. Thanks in advance
#3264 of 3275 2004 Ram Hemi Underbody Vibration by ramthunder Oct 09, 2006 (2:34 pm)
I have a 2004 2500 Hemi. It has 46000 miles and I have a underbody vibration. I took it to the dealer and they said I had a blown baffle in my muffler. I went out and got a Magna flow muffler and I still have the vibration. It only happens when driving around 2000 - 3000 RPM. When I have it in idle and rev it up I get no vibration. I checked my underbody heat shields and they are all tight. Does anyone have any idea's what it might be?
#3265 of 3275 CHECK ENGINE-MFG CODE-TRANNY TROUBLE by pegleg95 Oct 11, 2006 (11:57 am)
I have a problem for all you experts out there. My 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 (5.2L Auto) got a check engine light two days ago. It had been fine the day before. In drive, the truck starts slowly (no power, torque converter?) up to about 10-15 mph and then drives normally there after. If I romp on it, I get power but it tachs out 1st gear until I let off the gas and then shifts into 2nd for a very short time. If I'm not going fast enough when I let off to force it into 2nd it will shift back into 1st at a very high RPM. After romping on it, it will behave this way (tach out 1st, short shift in 2nd, etc.) until I shut it off and restart it and then it goes back to having no power at takeoff but otherwise behaving normally. I had the code scanned at AutoZone and they got a "Manufacturer's Code". The guy there tried to reset it but it just came back. He then told me to unhook the battery and hold the cables together for thirty seconds and it should reset and run properly. I don't think he knew what he was talking about because even though this did reset it it just came back within 10 secs. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Replies to this message: mac24 (Oct 11, 2006 12:10 pm) pegleg95 (Oct 11, 2006 2:32 pm) corkscrew (Oct 12, 2006 3:32 am)
#3266 of 3275 Re: CHECK ENGINE-MFG CODE-TRANNY TROUBLE [pegleg95] by mac24 Oct 11, 2006 (12:10 pm)
Replying to: pegleg95 (Oct 11, 2006 11:57 am) I had the code scanned at AutoZone and they got a "Manufacturer's Code".   A 'manufacturer's code' is a non-standard OBDII code and so cannot be identified by a generic OBDII reader.   Any code is there to notify you of a problem.........the code itself isn't the problem. Resetting the computer to remove the code doesn't fix anything, as you've found out. You have to fix the problem that caused the code, then do a reset to remove it.   You need to have the code read by a dealership, or an independent shop that's a Dodge specialist. Replies to this message: pegleg95 (Oct 11, 2006 2:32 pm)

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