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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions ![]()

3275 messages, Last post on Oct 18, 2006 at 8:20 PM
You are in the Dodge Ram Forum. Your Host is kcram
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I was attempting to start my RAM. when you turn the key your test lights normally come on... well my check engine light did not come on. If I leave the key in the on position, I will hear a clicking coming from relays behind the master cylinder. Clicking wiil start out faint and slow and get increasingly faster and louder until check engine light comes on and then goes out. At this point turn the key and it starts. This is only a cold weather issue. In summer, starts up with no problem. As it get colder, the time it takes for the relays to begin clicking and finally finish clicking so I can start gets increasingly longer. I have waited up to 1hr for clicking to start and have had clicking last for more than 10 minutes before it stops. It also does not matter weather engine is hot or cold. On cold days, I can turn engine off hot and 5 minutes later, it will not start till it goes through the clicking motion. i have already replaced the relays themselves with no change. so does anyone have any idea why this is happening any clue at all would be helpful as this vehicle is my work vehicle and it has to carry me around the midwest HELP! Replies to this message:
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Replying to: titanium29 (Oct 04, 2006 3:07 pm) |
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Replying to: ram250van (Oct 05, 2006 3:10 am) kcram - Pickups Host
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Replying to: kcram (Oct 06, 2006 5:25 pm) |
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I have an '01 Ram 1500, 4x4, 5.9l that requires replacement of the rear-end. The axle that I would like to use in place of the original is out of an '05 Ram 1500, 2WD. The '01 has rear drum brakes and the '05 has rear disc brakes. If at all possible I prefer to adapt to the disc system on the newer axle. I realize that I will have to modify the brake lines to hook up to the new callipers, but I'm unsure of what else will need to be modified or replaced to accomodate this change. Any help and ideas are greatly appreciated. I am planning on beginning this axle replacement next weekend. ~Az~
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Replying to: azram (Oct 07, 2006 1:23 pm) Make sure also that any ABS/speed sensor in the axle housing is compatible with what you have at the moment. Finally, as you've a 4x4, it's critically important that the new axle has the same final drive ratio as your old one.
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Replying to: mac24 (Oct 07, 2006 2:48 pm) ~Az~ |
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| 2002 Dodge ram 1500 quad 4x4, all gauges went out so I called the dealership and the garage told me the price off the top of his head. 550 plus installation and the truck sits for three weeks while they order the dash from the factory. If they have done so many full replacements on this then there should be a friggin recall. Diamler says there isn't a problem but if you look through the message boards you will notice a real problem going on. Needless to say, I need to know if there is an easier solution to fixing this problem. Is there something that I should try first or just buck up and fork out the money and let this moron dealership keep my truck. Don't like this dealership at all. Let me know if anyone has any suggestions. Thanks in advance | |
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| I have a 2004 2500 Hemi. It has 46000 miles and I have a underbody vibration. I took it to the dealer and they said I had a blown baffle in my muffler. I went out and got a Magna flow muffler and I still have the vibration. It only happens when driving around 2000 - 3000 RPM. When I have it in idle and rev it up I get no vibration. I checked my underbody heat shields and they are all tight. Does anyone have any idea's what it might be? | |
I have a problem for all you experts out there. My 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 (5.2L Auto) got a check engine light two days ago. It had been fine the day before. In drive, the truck starts slowly (no power, torque converter?) up to about 10-15 mph and then drives normally there after. If I romp on it, I get power but it tachs out 1st gear until I let off the gas and then shifts into 2nd for a very short time. If I'm not going fast enough when I let off to force it into 2nd it will shift back into 1st at a very high RPM. After romping on it, it will behave this way (tach out 1st, short shift in 2nd, etc.) until I shut it off and restart it and then it goes back to having no power at takeoff but otherwise behaving normally. I had the code scanned at AutoZone and they got a "Manufacturer's Code". The guy there tried to reset it but it just came back. He then told me to unhook the battery and hold the cables together for thirty seconds and it should reset and run properly. I don't think he knew what he was talking about because even though this did reset it it just came back within 10 secs. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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