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3275 messages,  Last post on Oct 18, 2006 at 8:20 PM

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What is this discussion about? Dodge Ram Pickup 1500, Dodge Ram Pickup 2500, Dodge Ram Pickup 3500, Truck

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#3254 of 3275 Oil Change/Fuel Filter Change Recommendations for Home Jobs by titanium29 Oct 04, 2006 (3:07 pm)
Hey Mr. D. I have a new '06 3500 with the Cummins 5.9HO 610 Diesel. In the past, I have here and there done my own oil changes on my gasoline engines, partly due to costs, but just as often for convenience.   In regard to this new diesel truck, would you. A. Recommend strongly that I have the dealer do the oil changes out of warranty concerns and get used to the cost. B. Make sure I use Mopar oil filters and recommend I use ???? brand oil, making sure I ??? (such as fill the new filter with oil to protect my turbo), or C. maybe another option like a lube/oil specialty shop?   Also, it LOOKS like changing the fuel filter is a straight forward job by a drop in cartridge in the housing that I can drain water from the filter at. True?   And last but not least. Is a 5000 mile (nice, round, easy to remember) oil change interval a good one, or wasteful by far? I tow 2-3 times a year for < 100 miles each time. Thanks. Replies to this message: loncray (Oct 05, 2006 6:42 am)
#3255 of 3275 OBD-II codes for message 3253 by scare Oct 04, 2006 (5:30 pm)
I forgot to mention, the truck is 4x4. I also put an OBD-II scaner on it and pulled these codes: P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfuction P0783 3-4 Shift Malfunction P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected   I doubt that the misfire has anything to do with it, but 740 & 783 definitely do. Does a 740 code mean it could be an electronic problem that does not require cracking the transmission open for? And is it indicative of a common, specific error when 740 and 783 are found together?
#3256 of 3275 Dodge RAM 250 Relay Clicking no start by ram250van Oct 05, 2006 (3:10 am)
I was attempting to start my RAM. when you turn the key your test lights normally come on... well my check engine light did not come on. If I leave the key in the on position, I will hear a clicking coming from relays behind the master cylinder. Clicking wiil start out faint and slow and get increasingly faster and louder until check engine light comes on and then goes out. At this point turn the key and it starts.   This is only a cold weather issue. In summer, starts up with no problem. As it get colder, the time it takes for the relays to begin clicking and finally finish clicking so I can start gets increasingly longer. I have waited up to 1hr for clicking to start and have had clicking last for more than 10 minutes before it stops.   It also does not matter weather engine is hot or cold. On cold days, I can turn engine off hot and 5 minutes later, it will not start till it goes through the clicking motion.   i have already replaced the relays themselves with no change.    so does anyone have any idea why this is happening any clue at all would be helpful as this vehicle is my work vehicle and it has to carry me around the midwest HELP! Replies to this message: Replies to this message: kcram (Oct 06, 2006 5:25 pm) ram250van (Oct 07, 2006 4:39 am)
#3257 of 3275 Re: Oil Change/Fuel Filter Change Recommendations for Home Jobs [titanium29] by loncray Oct 05, 2006 (6:42 am)
Replying to: titanium29 (Oct 04, 2006 3:07 pm) Not speaking for Mr. D, but my personal experience with my '03 CTD Ram is to have all oil changes done by the dealer. I wouldn't go to a Jiffy Lube type shop unless they were endorsed by Cummins. Supposedly the fuel filter change IS a quick drop-in but I have always had the dealer do it. Finally, I think 5,000 miles is about right, esp. with light towing. There's almost no way to meet the requirements for the 7,500 mile interval schedule, and I think 3,500 is too often.
#3258 of 3275 Re: Dodge RAM 250 Relay Clicking no start [ram250van] by kcram HOST Oct 06, 2006 (5:25 pm)
Replying to: ram250van (Oct 05, 2006 3:10 am) First thing I'd check is the battery and cables. Sounds like you don't have enough juice.   kcram - Pickups Host Replies to this message: ram250van (Oct 07, 2006 4:39 am)
#3259 of 3275 Re: Dodge RAM 250 Relay Clicking no start [kcram] by ram250van Oct 07, 2006 (4:39 am)
Replying to: kcram (Oct 06, 2006 5:25 pm) Thanks for the reply, already thought of that. It cranks strong so I would disagree. I have also connected a charger to it an that made no difference. I was told by another to check grounds. They said that the relay is given positive and complets the circuit by finding ground. I check and see no loose or disconnected grounds. This morning, key has been in start position for an hour and a half and still nothing. It seems that the system cannot complete its self test and give ok to start until this relay makes connection. It is very strange to me that the cold has anything to do with electrical except for a battery.
#3260 of 3275 '01 to '05 Rear Brake Mod by azram Oct 07, 2006 (1:23 pm)
I have an '01 Ram 1500, 4x4, 5.9l that requires replacement of the rear-end. The axle that I would like to use in place of the original is out of an '05 Ram 1500, 2WD. The '01 has rear drum brakes and the '05 has rear disc brakes. If at all possible I prefer to adapt to the disc system on the newer axle. I realize that I will have to modify the brake lines to hook up to the new callipers, but I'm unsure of what else will need to be modified or replaced to accomodate this change. Any help and ideas are greatly appreciated. I am planning on beginning this axle replacement next weekend. ~Az~ Replies to this message: mac24 (Oct 07, 2006 2:48 pm) azram (Oct 07, 2006 3:54 pm)
#3261 of 3275 Re: '01 to '05 Rear Brake Mod [azram] by mac24 Oct 07, 2006 (2:48 pm)
Replying to: azram (Oct 07, 2006 1:23 pm) I've never done that particular swap (I doubt that many have), but generally when going from drums to discs at the rear you'll need to change the proportioning valve, emergency brake hookup, and possibly the master cylinder.   Make sure also that any ABS/speed sensor in the axle housing is compatible with what you have at the moment.   Finally, as you've a 4x4, it's critically important that the new axle has the same final drive ratio as your old one. Replies to this message: azram (Oct 07, 2006 3:54 pm)
#3262 of 3275 Re: '01 to '05 Rear Brake Mod [mac24] by azram Oct 07, 2006 (3:54 pm)
Replying to: mac24 (Oct 07, 2006 2:48 pm) Thx for responding... I'm hoping not to have to change the master cylinder, as they visually appear to be very similar. Ive been told that the ebrake shouldnt pose much of a challenge and that the ABS sensor will need to be switched from the old axle to the new one. That leaves the proportioning valve. I've heard that this might need to be modified to accomodate the increased pressure required by the disc system, but i've little idea how to go about this. On some vehicles it is as simple as removing the needle valve and spring from the proportioning unit. Not sure if this will work on this switch. As for gearing match between the front and rear, they are slightly different... the new one is 3.95 and the old in 4.10. I rarely use the 4x4, so i plan to change out the gearing in the near future and will refrain from using 4x4 in the mean time. ~Az~
#3263 of 3275 all gauges are out by apetty Oct 09, 2006 (6:14 am)
2002 Dodge ram 1500 quad 4x4, all gauges went out so I called the dealership and the garage told me the price off the top of his head. 550 plus installation and the truck sits for three weeks while they order the dash from the factory. If they have done so many full replacements on this then there should be a friggin recall. Diamler says there isn't a problem but if you look through the message boards you will notice a real problem going on. Needless to say, I need to know if there is an easier solution to fixing this problem. Is there something that I should try first or just buck up and fork out the money and let this moron dealership keep my truck. Don't like this dealership at all. Let me know if anyone has any suggestions. Thanks in advance

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