- #97 of 423
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Re: Brake Me Up!!! [agoodwin]
by bradnels
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Oct 08, 2005 (7:28 am)
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Replying to: agoodwin (Oct 26, 2004 6:29 pm)
To begin with, I am not a technition just a guy who has a 00' 7.3 diesel with a power chip and K&N filter in my Excursion, I pull a 7000 lb camper and occasionaly a Bobcat that is alot of weight also. I was pulling the bobcat and the trailor breaks went out so my truck was dooing all of the stopping for the trip. Shortly after that incident I noticed a slight shake in the stearing wheel and it got consistently worse as time went on. I am very familiar with the term "Warped rotors" and "having them turned as I have owned several other big SUV, Expedition, same thing. Taho, Same thing, Suburban Same thing and I got sick of "turning rotors". I did some research and "googled" warped rotors, and found out that what most of us think is that the actual rotor gets a warp or a wave to it and that causes the vibration. But what it seams actually happens is from the extreme heat that is built up between the pads and the rotors the molecules in the metal actually change and cause "I can't remember the exact term" a kind of hard spot "in" the rotor, kind of like a planters wart. and the pads don't grip the rotor at the same rate as it does the rest of the surface. So when the machine shop "turns" the rotors they have to grind the whole surface of the rotor down to eliminate that spot in the rotor that has hardened. Why does it happen in the first place, pads and rotors have to be matched to each other, in other words softer break pads will heat up and get spongy but they don't heat your rotor to the point of "warping" but you loose stopping power. Hard break pads will feel firm, but will heat up the standard rotor to the point of "warping" because a sold "non-slotted or no holes" does not disapate enough heat. So to end this, I went to the local auto store and got high end pads and rotors that were slotted and drilled and some caliper grease. I greased the bejeausus out of the pins and worked them back and forth several times until they slid nice and loose (they were very sticky and that does not allow the pad to separate from the rotor enough and causes heat build up then "warping") I now have about 5,000 miles on the new set up and am very happy, the truck stops very nicley, firm and quick with no vibration. As for the chip and the K&N filter, what a differance, I get 17-18 MPG in the city and 22-23 on the freeway and the power and excelleration is awsome (for a 7800lb truck) and I do not have a light foot. this thing is like a 4 tone rocket, that can now stop. I also put 285/75 R 16 Bridgestone Revos (2nd set) and it handles 10 times better then the junk firstone steeltex. So properly set up this is an excellent all around truck.
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- #98 of 423
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plug on the diesel
by joseph42s
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Oct 09, 2005 (5:38 pm)
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I know the plug is on for the engine heating during winters. I want to leave the Excursion for long periods of time without driving, is there anyway to rig the plug in to trickle the battery? Since I will be leaving it outside and in the elements, I dont think putting your run of the mill trickle charger on it would be good. I use the vehicle pretty much only for towing.
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- #99 of 423
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trade 6 skijacker for stock set up
by joseph42s
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Oct 09, 2005 (5:40 pm)
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I was thinking about switching from the 6 ski jacker set up back to stock, I have some kick ass wheels and Toyo tires with the set up. I bought the truck used, and enjoy all the other add ons but would like to drop it down to normal. Anyone interested?
tulsa, OK
Joe
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- #100 of 423
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Re: Truck won't start. [mikevg]
by detroitlions
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Oct 17, 2005 (9:39 am)
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Replying to: mikevg (Sep 29, 2005 7:47 pm)
well havent been on site lately.and you have probably found the problem..but i found that you need at least 100 miles on read out and on even surface or it wont start what did you find out?
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- #101 of 423
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Re: 2000 Ex - engine stops without turning ignition off [trophylady]
by detroitlions
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Oct 17, 2005 (9:43 am)
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Replying to: trophylady (Sep 20, 2005 10:17 am)
can you elaborate on how you dealt with cam shaft sensor? settings? does it run smooth now? thanks striper
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- #102 of 423
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Paint peeling?
by quickfords
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Oct 19, 2005 (5:21 pm)
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I am not sure if anyone else has seen this, but I thought I would ask the forum folks before seeing the dealer. I am getting some paint delamination on the roof. It is along the long recesses on the roof (paralell to roof rack). It has been flaking off for about a year now and getting worse. 
Is it just me?
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- #103 of 423
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Re: brakes and more [ltw]
by sixkidbill
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Oct 20, 2005 (1:26 pm)
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Replying to: ltw (Aug 11, 2005 6:18 am)
I'm having same problem. Where exactly are the door sensors? Is that the latch? Thanks so much for responding.
Sandi
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- #104 of 423
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fuel system
by matt21
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Oct 24, 2005 (5:15 am)
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when i start my 2000 excursion v 10 it does not want to stay running. it use to happen 3/4 times over 6 months but now it is happening more often, could it because of the cooler weather?
any help?
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- #105 of 423
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Re: trade 6 skijacker for stock set up [joseph42s]
by rmejia
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Oct 31, 2005 (9:06 am)
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Replying to: joseph42s (Oct 09, 2005 5:40 pm)
what are you looking for($$$) as far as the trade. hows the tread on the tires? how big are they?
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- #106 of 423
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Re: Truck won't start. [mikevg]
by wwilliams2
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Nov 01, 2005 (12:40 pm)
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Replying to: mikevg (Sep 29, 2005 7:47 pm)
I have a 2001 Excursion and I recently had a similar problem. The dealer replaced some sort of Air Bypass Valve. I had several other things fixed while in the shop but if I remember correctly you may be looking at a few hundred dollars for parts/labor.
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