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SUVs Ford Excursion Ford Excursion Maintenance and Repair
423 messages, Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 6:41 AM
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I have a 2003 Ford Eddie Bauer Excursion 4X4 6.0 diesel. Ever since we took delivery of this vehicle it has been a financial nightmare. Since delivery in January 2003 we have had brake problems, injector replaces and computer problems. That was in the first six months. Our dealer told us to have patience because it was one of the first off the assembly line and bugs might need to be worked out. Well the bugs continued. We traveled and tow extensively between Minnesota and New Mexico. And over the course of ownership of this vehicle we made sure it was serviced by a Ford authorized service shop only. Every trip we made it ended up in the shop with some kind of malfunction. However, they always told us it was not related to the last problem. Ha! The final straw came in October of 2004 because the motor keep over heating and then the motor blew. The dealer insisted that the dealer in Minnesota didn't put the oil filter on right. And they even insinuated that we had something do to with it. However, we never worked on it and they knew it. They replace it under warranty at 81,000 miles. Dealer gave us a 36,000 mile warranty on the new motor. Because we couldn't afford to get out of this one and pay the difference for a new one we took back the car with the new motor hoping all would be well. NOT!! We had it serviced and as long as we do town driving it seemed fine. In May we took another long trip and once again it over heated. Took it in and they replaced the clutch fan and said all was well. Now for the final straw. Traveling back to NM the first of this month it over heated again. The gauges read hot and the cooling fan would not kick in. Vehicle broke down 300 miles from home. Had to get towed and was just told the computer malfunctioned and fried the 2nd motor. Because it is out of warranty by 1500 miles and it was not the motor it was the computer it is not covered under warranty. So we are told we will have to pay for the repairs and replacement of a new motor. About $15,000 plus. We still owe on this car. I have had it with Ford and people need to be aware to keep good records and not except excuses from their Ford Dealers, Customer Service and Service department. Just needed to vent. And if anyone else has had problems with the 6.0 diesel or computer. Thank you |
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Has anyone had problems with the back window falling out on the 2004 Excursion? I have had the drivers side back window fall out 3 time in 7 months. The dealer has replaced the window each time but it is a pain and I'd like to know if it is a bigger problem than just mine.
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I have a 2000 Excursion v10 and occasionally when I crank it, it either idles very low (4-500 rpm) or will completely shut off. It does not happen all the time, but enough to be really aggravating. (Maybe 1 out of 5 cold cranks.) At first I thought it had something to do with disconnecting the battery and not going through the engine idle re-learn process that is in the manual, so we disconnected the battery again and went through that multi-step process to let the engine "re-learn" it's correct idle. That seemed to work for a good while, but now it's happening again and repeating that process doesn't seem to fix it. Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions?
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I have 2 one Eddie Bauer v10 and the other is Limited 4wd 6.0. Each has had its own set of problems and one common one. But when you have 4 kids 3 of which are in car seats, I think they're the best things on the road. So far, my local Ford dealers have been pretty good at taking care of the warranty issues, but they are near the end of the period. I may pay for the extended plan for the diesel. The V10 has had a bad alternator cash replacement and labor would have been about 750. I paid 0. The 6.0 has had 2 turbos, an egr valve, fan clutch (did u know that you truck transmission won't engage when the switch goes out, in the middle of the desert pulling a boat at 110 in the afternoon an hour ffrom the arizona border). I guess costs whould have been about 6000 so far only 75 buck for a fuel filter. They both have common problems with brakes. I can feel the vibration of warped rotors on both and I think I'll due the complete Power Slot rotor replacement on both along with the ceramic pads. Everything I've read says that is the way to go.I've learned alot about them and if you have questions I may have an answer. But I'm not a tech by any stretch of your or my imgination. Have fun and I really like this site. Good people!
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Replying to: pjmarg (Jul 24, 2005 2:48 pm) |
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Replying to: blackx (Apr 26, 2005 1:44 pm) it use to work fine, then it would make a short chirp and tun off, now it just turns off when i but it in "R" any help Darkbluestang  yahoo.com thanks jeremy
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I need to replace my outside towing mirror and need to get to the wiring inside the door. How do I get the inside panel off? I can get the nuts off on the mirror itself, but don't see how the panel removes so I can get to the wiring connector? Help! Thanks, John
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Replying to: gtracer83 (Aug 02, 2005 12:59 pm) You should be able to negotiate a price for it. It should not be more than $20. Plus they will be done in around a half an hour and you will never notice the door was taken apart. Doing it yourself might mess things up. They know which way the door panel moves to get if form the door itself. I had a similar case with a different vehicle. Good Luck. |
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Replying to: gtracer83 (Aug 02, 2005 12:59 pm) 1) Rock the plastic cover at the front, highest point of the door (its the one about 6" long) until it comes off in your hand. 2) Gently pry the bezel that holds the power window control out of the hole. Start at the end closest to the front of the car. You can use a pry bar or very blunt screw driver. Don't mar the plastic. It should pop right out. 3) Mark the wiring two wiring harnesses and the holes that they plug into with tape and symbols 4) Gentle remove the wireing harness from the two fittings 6) Look for the screw that holds the panel to the door frame and remove it 7) Gently pry the red light cover on the door panel out of its position 8) Remove the screw that holds the panel to the door frame 9) Gently lift the door panel upwards and rock it back and forth until it just comes loose. 10) Look down on the inside and see the wire that powers the lightbulb in the door panel 11) Turn the plastic light bulb fitting 90 degrees and it will come out of the door panel 12) Remove the door panel. Reverse to re-attach. Of course, you can drive to an auto-glass company and company then pay someone to screw it up for you but that wouldn't be as much fun.
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Replying to: bigpainford (Jun 14, 2005 10:03 pm)
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