Last post on Jan 10, 2013 at 3:13 PM
You are in the Ford Excursion
What is this discussion about?
Ford Excursion, SUV
#398 of 519 Re: Mpg 7.3 Diesel or 6.0 Diesel to V10 Gas or V8 Gas. [twtcad]
May 22, 2009 (12:38 pm)
Just sold my '02 V-10 4x4 Limited with 88k miles. Almost cried as the new owner drove off, but don't really need that big a vehicle anymore. I can tell you this; my truck was in the AutoTrader for less than 24 hours, had three calls on it and a buyer who offered my asking price ($12.3k) sight unseen. The Ex was immaculate and well maintained, but I was surprised at the demand for it, now that gas is on it's way back up. Guess I left a grand or two on the table, given the response. I bought the Ex used with 25k on it in 2004 and can say without hesitation that it's about as bulletproof as any mechanical item can be. Brakes are a weak point, but easily fixed with just about any aftermarket rotor (I used NAPA, 20k+ with no warping). Outside of brakes however, change the oil at 5k and tranny fluid every 30k and these things will run forever. My brother has a '01 V10 4x4 with 150k and has likewise had little go wrong, and he is very hard on a truck. Compared with a Suburban, the Ex is head and shoulders a better vehicle for any type of towing or heavy use. Two previous Suburbans both rode a bit nicer than the Ex (they were 1500's) but ate transmissions like waffles and the brake were even weaker points than the Ford. Misc. A/C, power accessories and trim issues turned me off from the GM products. My V-10 averaged about 12 mpg, a bit better on the highway if you keep it below 75 mph. Above 75, it's like trying to push a barn down the highway and gas mileage plummets. I truly loved the truck and hope one day to find another in nice shape if my needs change. A word of caution, the Excursion is quite a bit bulkier than a Suburban or Expedition and drives as such. If your usage is mostly inner city in a large metro area, beware it doesn't fit in some parking garages and regular parking spaces. But if you need heavy duty.... nothing like the Excursion! Would love to see Ford bring it back on the greatly improved Super Duty platform.
#399 of 519 Re: Mpg 7.3 Diesel or 6.0 Diesel to V10 Gas or V8 Gas. [wjtinatl]
May 25, 2009 (10:54 am)
I know what you mean about the Big 'X's. If I could get a brand new one I would be all over it, but with today's economy I can't see it happening. I have a 2000 V10 with only 140,000 km on it. Everytime I take it for a service the dealer asks if I want to get rid of it. They have people looking for them.
#400 of 519 re: shuddering - to fphilli1,heater1951,idgolfjunkie [twtcad]
May 28, 2009 (9:23 am)
I have looked but never found slotted, dimpled rotors, only slotted, drilled? I have looked on ebay.
I am looking for people with experience with just drilled rotors, slotted and drilled and slotted and dimpled.
Jun 27, 2009 (4:40 am)
I also Have A 2005 Excursion with bad ROTORS.. Seems ever 7 to 10 ,00 mile they have to be replaced.. I was told by ford dealer you do not cut rotors on a Excursion.. they heat up to fast.... FORD has a ploblem and will not own up to it.. was told the new For super duty trucks have a better brake for somereason HMMMMMMMM
#402 of 519 Re: brakes [heater1951]
Jun 27, 2009 (7:48 am)
You can take a very light cut on the rotors...just enough to clean them up. I have frozen Rotors" that still only get about 7-10k miles then begin to warp and chatter. They'll take three very light cuts so you can get 30k from them.
#403 of 519 re: shuddering & radio tool [tzimmermann & others]
Jun 28, 2009 (10:08 am)
OK- new rotors and pads have been on wife's ex for about 1 1/2 months and "shuddering" has not come back, wife says brakes are handling very well. I ordered "dimple-drilled and slotted(black finish)" from "brakeperformance.com" and it cost slightly less than stock rotors from dealer for the front set,the shipping was free, no sales tax and a set of new front pads were included for free as long as you "checked" the box when ordering. I've got to say I'm very pleased with them so far, I hope this input helps others. Now I need to know if it is possible to get the tool that is needed to remove the stock radio at stores like pep boys or auto zone,etc. or can I only get it at the dealer? I need to remove the radio so that I can get the front of the dash off (screw is hidden under radio) to get access to the instrument cluster lights, to replace them. Anyone bought this tool ? Cost?? Thanks in advance
#404 of 519 Re: I feel everyones PAIN! [idgolfjunkie]
Aug 11, 2009 (4:54 pm)
I was just searching the net to find some good info regarding excursions repair help when I found this site. I didn't realize how wide spread the problems are. I have the "shuddering" while breaking.
My husband replaced the brake pads and said he needed to replace the rotors as well. All the info on here is very helpful. After he replaced them, a clinking started (right after his day off - of coarse!) and finally made a snap noise yesterday. The steering seemed kind off pulling to the side like I had no steering capability at all and then would work again. Weird. As soon as my husband got home he took the tire, brakes, and rotor off. There was this flat "c" shaped metal piece that fell out of the rotor. The only thing we can think of is that was has been causing the clinking noise. The whole hub seemed very loose and shaky. Maybe moving back & forth as mucha s 1". Should it move that much? I don't ever remember seeing a hub move like that. We parked it but want to get it back on the road asap. We are considering replacing the hub and/or bearings. Has anyone else had this problem? I'd love to hear about what you've tried. Thanks!
Everyone's comments seem to say they replaced the bearings but never why? So another questions to throw out there would be why did you try that/
#405 of 519 Cabin Air filter- 2000 Excursion & "c-shaped metal"
Aug 17, 2009 (10:13 am)
Can anyone tell me where the "cabin air filter" is located in the ex?? Thanks!! Attn: jerm & lanz That 1" of play, in my opinion, is way too much play for a hub. How thick was that C-shaped metal piece that fell out of the rotor and how big in diameter is the piece? Also you refer to bearings in the rotor, on my wifes (and on many others) the rotors are "knock off" rotors which do not have bearings, could you explain with more detail if possible. I think everyone has taken the summer off from this "excursion page" (except me) !! Ok, now that I think about it, I'm talking about an ex w/ 4 wheel drive, I don't know if they even came in 2 wheel drive, if so that would explain the bearings in the (front) rotors, but does the "piece" even look like it was part of the bearing?
#406 of 519 Brake warpage probs
Sep 02, 2009 (12:37 pm)
I bet you half these complaints in here for warped brake rotors are because the lug nuts are not being hand tightened to specification with a torque wrench. If there is any drastic variation in foot pounds of torque that each lug nut is tightened to it will cause the rotor to warp. It's simple thermal dynamics - metal expands when it gets hot, if it expands non-uniformly there can be warpage. That goes for any brake rotor on any vehicle unless otherwise specified (yes you too Honda owners out there). Your average mechanic may not know about this and may or may not care enough to take the time to do it right, usually they just use the old impact gun and hammer on the lug nuts till they won't tighten anymore or use a torque stick (still questionable). The only real way to know it's being done right is to go back after repairs have been done and loosen the lug nuts one at a time and retighten them yourself with a $20 torque stick from Walmart.
COME TO THINK OF IT, many of the problems talked about on this sight are probably more from poor quality repairs made from mechanics that did not do a thorough job than from Ford.
#407 of 519 Re: Brake warpage probs [mechtechnic]
Sep 02, 2009 (4:45 pm)
Torqueing the nuts properly is correct. However it is not the answer in this case. I've been tightening nuts properly for years on every car I've ever owned. Only my Excursion has continually had the warpage problem, with or without cryogenically treated rotors. My rotors last for 5-10,000 miles before beginning to chatter when hot. My simple treatment is to remove the rotors...take an absolute minmal cut on the lathe and reinstall. They're good for another 5-10,000 miles. The entire process takes an hour. I suspect that somehow, a lack of sufficient cooling airflow over the rotors when underway may be contributing to the problem. I'm retired now. My service operations did 25-40,000 brake jobs a year. The identical rotors are used on certain Ford trucks without the excessive warpage. The Excursion is substantially heavier than the trucks using the same rotors.