Last post on Jan 10, 2013 at 2:13 PM
You are in the Ford Excursion
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Ford Excursion, SUV
#510 of 519 Re: oil filter [bionut]
Aug 20, 2012 (11:02 am)
I'm assuming you have the v10 per your name, so I can not say specifically. But I have the 7.3l, w/ a huge filter and I punch a hole in the bottom w/ a punch or screwdriver and hammer to drain the filter. Then you can either drive a screw driver thru it as was mentioned above or I use a huge pair of channel locks, they work great. Also not to be a smart ass, but make sure you are using the righty-tighty/lefty-loosy rule.....you should be turning counter clock wise. And remember once you are ready to put the new one on to fill the filter at least 3/4 full and smear new oil on that gasket, that will help a lot in keeping it from getting stuck in the future. Good luck
Aug 20, 2012 (12:11 pm)
One other thought for a "Stuck oil filter", I'll do the punch the hole as last resort cause once you put a hole in the filter, you will compromise the intergrity of the filter and sometimes you end up tearing the metal right off the base, then you are really up the creek!
One other thought for a "Stuck oil filter", I'll do the punch the hole as last resort cause once you put a hole in the filter, you will compromise the integrity of the filter and sometimes you end up tearing the metal right off the base, then you are really up the creek!
I recommend getting an oil filter wrench (~$10), the ones that match the bottom of the cans are light duty, but there are also some that lasso the oil filter and tighten up and give you leverage to break it loose. Once you get the filter off check the metal contact surface that the rubber gasket on the filter hits, make sure this is smooth, pre-lube (with clean oil or grease) the rubber gasket before you reinstall the new one. Also I only tighten the filter as much can I can with the grip of my less dominate hand usually about 3/4 of a turn past snug "for me it's my left hand" since I'm right handed.
#512 of 519 Re: oil filter [shadetree_mech]
by Stever@Edmunds HOST
Aug 20, 2012 (8:56 pm)
less dominate hand
That's a neat trick. I changed the oil in my minivan this afternoon and after oiling the filter gasket I hand tightened it pretty snug with my (dominant) right hand and then backed it off an eighth of a turn or so. Will try it your way next time.
#513 of 519 2000 Ford Excursion Turbo D. 7.3 Limited Starter
Aug 26, 2012 (1:13 pm)
Starter grinding on my fly wheel. I had the fly wheel changed and new starter put on. A year later its doing the same thing. Any help will do!
Aug 26, 2012 (5:18 pm)
I HAVE A 2000 FORD EXCURSION AND EVERY TIME I TURN IT SQUEAKS VERY VERY LOUD AND IT'S VERY ANNOYING....WHATS CAUSING THAT?
#515 of 519 Re: 2000 Ford Excursion Turbo D. 7.3 Limited Starter [donc7]
Aug 27, 2012 (1:10 pm)
The flywheel should not fail that quickly unless it was defective. My '02 7.3 has 205k miles, on its third starter and still the original flywheel. Even if you are not mechanically inclined, I would suggest you check the starter to make sure the bolts are tight. Especially with the diesel vibration, the bolts can work loose and when the starter tips, the gear doesn't engage fully with the flywheel. I recommend cleaning the bolts and holes and using blue loc-tite on them.
#516 of 519 Re: SQUEAKING [suvluva34]
Sep 05, 2012 (5:33 pm)
Regarding your squeak, I would check the usual suspects such as ball joints and tie rod ends. Also, sway bar end links and sway bar mounting rubber mounting points are a know source of squeaking on these vehicles. If you've never had them replaced, that would be my best guess as to what is causing your squeak. Finally, the front body to frame mounting bolts and rubber isolators can eventually wear. If the squeak feels like it coming from right under your feet on the drivers or passenger side, it could be the body mounting points will need attention.
#517 of 519 Creaking sound in body
Jan 10, 2013 (10:26 am)
I have a creaking noise coming from the forward cab area. I have been told that this may be a body mount issue. Could this also be responsible for the clunking I hear on rough road. I have replaced leafs, upper and low ball joints, outer axle shafts and hubs. Not much left but the trac bar bushing (the clunk?), drag link (which mechanic thought was fine) and or the body mount creak. Need some insight here...
#518 of 519 Re: SQUEAKING [walt501]
Jan 10, 2013 (10:28 am)
How big a job is replacing the body mounts? Should a body shop be used for this?
#519 of 519 Re: SQUEAKING [figure11]
Jan 10, 2013 (2:13 pm)
Body mounts easy to replace a lot of it is from water getting in between the rubber and washer. The pain in the butt is taken up the carpet to get to them. Need a floor jack and wooden blocks loosen the two front ones and replace the then do the two rear ones make sure to put block in between frame & body for safety you should not have to disk conect any thing only pick up about an inch good luck