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Infiniti I35 Maintenance and Repair

522 messages,  Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 2:43 PM

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What is this discussion about? Infiniti I35, Sedan

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#514 of 522 Re: "Check Engine Light" [bostonguy1] by mik5423 Nov 06, 2009 (9:33 pm)
Replying to: bostonguy1 (Nov 06, 2009 4:20 pm) Invest in your own code scanner.Then your not at the mercy of some stupid mechanic or the dealer.Trust me it will pay for itself.$69.00 at advance auto.   http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_PocketScan-Pl- us-Code-Scanner-Actron_9090012-P_N3389_T|GRP2018____   You can probably find one even cheaper on ebay.Just has to be ODBII.Not ODBI.
#515 of 522 Re: "Check Engine Light" [bostonguy1] by snowace76 Nov 07, 2009 (7:32 am)
Replying to: bostonguy1 (Nov 06, 2009 10:02 am) i've only had this happen to me once and it seemed to be right after i'd filled the car with gas. i now make sure i tighten the cap well after each fill-up. hasn't happened in over 3 months now so we shall see...
#516 of 522 Re: "Check Engine Light" [bostonguy1] by sparquee Nov 15, 2009 (8:03 am)
Replying to: bostonguy1 (Nov 06, 2009 10:02 am) You may want to have your catalytic converter checked. I just went through a similar problem and replace my engine. Here's my scenario   - i bought car used with 58K Km on it. At first oil change (64k Km) i was told no oil. Did oil consumption test and sucked back about 1 to 1.5 liters per 1000 km. Was told normal by NISSAN. -Also had light rattle around 1500 to 2000 rpm but was told most likely bad gas and to use premium (i used lower cost gas up to this point, 85k km) -At 96,000 km, re-did oil consumption test (same infiniti dealer) with same results as previously mentioned. This time not normal (documentation was different as well). This was in early 2007. NISSAN authorized a change of the short block under warranty. -Documents showed a $5,000+ cost for engine job. -Car worked good after this, but knocking still there. I never did more as dealer not to concerned. -January 2009 lost coolant due to broken pipe. some overheating and only time check engine light came on. Seemed to have fixed problem early enough and engine seemed OK. -Late 2009, sound seemed worse and wider range of RPM for rattle noise (diesel like). -Stopped at local mechanic, confirmed noise, seemed to come from rear heads (very audible inside of garage with hood up. also noise from timing chain area. Made appointment for monday inspect, until checking oil. Non on the stick. Left car. -Monday morning found coolant in 2 cylinders. Base estimate without totally dismantling engine at least $3000 with many unknowns. Decided used motor for $1,200 + $1,000 for labor + 5 to 600 extra. -I have 1 year guarantee, but to get it they had to find why problem occurred. They found the catalytic converter clogged (pressure differential to large across converter) upon opening up completely blocked and loose. -Spoke to mechanic and he said that " the O2 sensors should pick up these problems and if they start to go off, this needs to be checked otherwise crap is blown back into the cylinders causing these problems. This will cause temperature differential across the comnverter of as much as 500 degrees. Causing lots of problems, overheating of rear heads, increased oil consumption, coolant in heads etc.......   - Moral of the story is, CHECK OUT THE catalytic converter (MY COST FOR NEW PART WAS $265). Seemed nissan had a lot of issues with these causing engine damage (replaced a lot of 4 cylinder motors on warranty because of this).   Good luck. Replies to this message: bostonguy1 (Nov 22, 2009 8:49 pm)
#517 of 522 Brake light by bcrisologo Nov 16, 2009 (3:48 pm)
I have a 1997 I30 with the right brake light that turns off when I step on the brake while the lights are turned on. What could be the problem? Is it the brake light relay? Where can I find it?   Thanks for your help, Jericho Replies to this message: 59fan (Nov 17, 2009 9:18 am)
#518 of 522 Re: Brake light [bcrisologo] by 59fan Nov 17, 2009 (9:18 am)
Replying to: bcrisologo (Nov 16, 2009 3:48 pm) You might want to just replace the bulb itself, Make sure that the new bulb is in its socket correctly, and make sure that the new bulb meets the OEM specs. My 2002 did the same thing, I just replaced the bulb and it was fine.
#519 of 522 Re: "Check Engine Light" [sparquee] by bostonguy1 Nov 22, 2009 (8:49 pm)
Replying to: sparquee (Nov 15, 2009 8:03 am) Hi Sparquee,   WOW! That's a real horror story...I'll be selling mine for parts before I spend that type of money for repairs.   Best of luck with it.
#520 of 522 New engine by shermanhvn11 Nov 24, 2009 (12:23 pm)
I have a 99 I-30. I'm the original owner and have always had the car serviced at either the local Infiniti or Nissan dealers. The car has been running fine until yesterday. When I started it, it was running very rough. There was a small amount of fluid in the drive. It had no odor of color. I was afraid to drive the car and called for service. I did drive the car to the dealer and it seemed to run much better after letting it warm up for a few minutes. The dealer is telling me today (after touting that I had plenty of life left in the car) that I need a new engine. Something about gunk around the timing celenoid? The car has 135K miles. I'm just shocked as I expected to be able to get another 50K miles out of the car. They are trying to cut me a deal on a new engine but I just think it should have lasted much longer than this.   Sherman Replies to this message: walter41 (Nov 24, 2009 1:14 pm)
#521 of 522 Re: New engine [shermanhvn11] by walter41 Nov 24, 2009 (1:14 pm)
Replying to: shermanhvn11 (Nov 24, 2009 12:23 pm) Sherman- Better check with a mechanic that is looking out for you and not the company.                I have 166,000+ and figure it will go another 100,000 if properly maintained.               Walter 11-24-09
#522 of 522 Re: Update: engine running sluggish, stalls, and hard to start [jhayes9835] by lori925 Nov 24, 2009 (2:43 pm)
Replying to: jhayes9835 (Aug 15, 2009 5:24 am) Does your car still drive good after using the MAF sensor cleaner? I am having the exact same problem with stalling, running rough, etc and I am at my wits end. Have replaced TWO oxygen sensors, the knock sensors, the IACV and it STILL acts up! I will try anything at this point that does not cost much money, and a $7 can of MAF cleaner sure sounds cheap:) Thanks in advance:)

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