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Vans & Minivans Dodge Sprinter Dodge Sprinter
1262 messages, Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 4:19 PM
You are in the Dodge Sprinter Forum. Your Host is Karens
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Replying to: john2123 (Dec 01, 2007 9:01 am) This really begs the question, why did you need new Calipers on a 2006???? Generally, I start with the fronts (run plenty of fluid through) Closest to brake booster/master cylinder first, then other front, then each of the rears... Remember that you need to use DOT 4 (that is heavy duty, low moisture, high temp). Keep reservoir near full while bleeding. I alway use a bleeding kit now, get at auto parts house. Also bleed while engine is running to use boost to increase flow speed (to shoot the bubbles out). I have also had to go around the entire vehicle twice, especially when pushing out old (dark) fluid. DOT3 is not corect fluid, too much moisture, and low temp threshold. DOT5 is NOT correct, it is wrong chemical makeup and is NOT compatible. These are guidelines I use, but are general and your specific application (Sprinter) could be different. I have not tried them out as I don't need calipers on my Sprinter yet. Please let us know about the reason for new calipers, I am very interested in this.  Thanks, KenB 
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Replying to: 049853 (Dec 02, 2007 4:02 pm) 2002-2006 are pretty easy as upfitters have had them for a while. 2007-2008 for USA/Canada is certainly tougher, newer. Thanks, KenB
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I am so frustrated. We bought a new Sprinter. We were assured by the salesman that they tend to last better than other cars with less frequent repairs. We have taken it in for warranty work way too many times. We have had to have a new battery and alternator. We had to have the passenger lock fixed. We had to have a new gear shift put in ( it would get stuck and not go above neutral -- stuck in drive or neutral). Also, this seems to be starting to almost get stuck again. When they replaced the battery they somehow messed up the radio/speaker connection so it randomly does not send sound to one of my speakers (which they claim they could not have done, but it started right after their repairs). Also, the heat does not have any varyiable temperatures. I can turn it all the way to cold for vented air and anything else is hot. It is very frustrating that we have so many repairs and I am very concerned that when the warranty runs out we will not be able to afford the car because of these major repairs. Has anyone else had so many problems? I would hope that our car is the exception. 
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Replying to: mitzid (Dec 19, 2007 2:40 pm) Your Sprinter is """NOT""" the exception,myself 11 warranty trips to MB workshop at 45K.miles.A metal junkbox on 4 wheels, would never buy a Mercedes product again.Now at 80K miles and still heaving problems,plus new MB rule $100 deductible after 39K miles for every warranty visit to your dealer. |
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This is why one does not buy early in the new model cycle. Same thing happens with every make. 2001 Lexus 300 was at the end of the model and very good. Lexus 2002 350 was full of problems. Helps to look before you leap.
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Replying to: mitzid (Dec 19, 2007 2:40 pm) The only thing that needs attention are the stock tires, which are still OK but nearly ready to replace, and the battery is getting a little tired. I haven't had a single mechanical problem. I'm keeping my fingers crossed, though. I'm hoping that there will be another option available in the US soon, like the Ford Transport (?) or the cool diesel passenger vans that Toyota sells in Africa. There are a LOT of sprinter-like vehicles that are available in other countries.
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. The dodge site now lists electric sunroof and electric sliding doors for the cargo van. . Time to order. . |
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Replying to: mitzid (Dec 19, 2007 2:40 pm) Also, remember that the shifter and the accelerator are not attached to the thing they shift... they are electronic items that send signals. This is also not unique to MB, most car companies are going to fly-by-wire for most car functions. I am NOT as happy with the new battery (MOPAR) as I was with the original (VARTA) battery... starting on COLD days not as good now. The HEAT knob is a famous problem that is not a problem (it is by design, not sure if that is not worse)... Somewhere hidden in your van is a sensor, but I have not yet found it, nor have I got an answer in the posts I've made as to where it is either... Until that sensor is up to the temp the knob indiciates (cryptically of course as there are no markings), it will try to put out heat to get the sensor to reach that temp... Since the sensor is NOT in the air flow path (might be on the return side, but I doubt that also), the heater will work until the sensor heats up (unless you have the knob set to COLD, or very nearly so). Knob temps range on the cold side from below 62F to much warmer than that (maybe 80 or 88F)... Not my choice of range as I prefer a cooler cabin, even in the winter (especially as I must wear clothing appropriate for working outside at least parttime). Mustn't get hot/cold/hot/cold/hot/cold as this is the best way to suffer bad effects of temps. Once the van cabin is generally heated up, then the knob becomes useful for adjusting the airflow side of heat/cool on demand. My friend's fancy Corvette works exactly the same, and he doesn't like it either (his car cost twice what my Sprinter did as well). My wife has Asthma, so we like the cabin air filter and the recirculate button... until the recirculate function just cuts off after about 15 minutes (how lovely when you are following a junker with and oil/fuel burning habit!!! In case you hadn't noticed, the dash-top vents do NOT heat at all, they are after the A/C, but before the heater core... When I need air flow and window clearing, but not much heat, I send the heat to the windshield by the knob control and only open the dashtop vents to balance the temp. European cars apparently earn their stripes for something OTHER than environmentals/airflow. KenB
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Replying to: mike_mcginn (Dec 19, 2007 4:02 pm) KenB
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Replying to: surlyoldbill (Dec 19, 2007 4:32 pm) Thanks, KenB
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