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Vans & Minivans Dodge Sprinter Dodge Sprinter
1262 messages, Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 4:19 PM
You are in the Dodge Sprinter Forum. Your Host is Karens
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Looks like I'm a member of the club. I just brought home a 144 tall cab, passenger white. Drove it 80 miles home, and like you all have experienced it's ownderful piece of equipent. The pickup and power of the diesel is amazing. Looks like I have to install an intercom to talk to anyone in the far back seat:)
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Replying to: kendall69 (Apr 21, 2007 6:08 pm) I think that I saw it on "Real People" many years ago... they were teaching the normally quiet Japanese business people how to speak up and yell when needed... very useful when you have to get yourself heard in the back of the VOX (Van/bOX, what my kids call the Sprinter).  Welcome to the club... we may be wishing we had the V-6 diesel like you probably got. Please let us know where your mileage falls... 20 MPG or higher I hope. Thanks, KenB 
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Replying to: rstms (Nov 28, 2006 4:36 am)
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Replying to: pdac (Apr 25, 2007 10:34 am) with lots of options, especially extra heating and Second A/C you are supposed to have an alternator LARGER than 90 AMP... 120, 150, or even 200. With the factory 2nd A/C I believe that the Alt. of choice was/is 150 Amps (might be 120amp). The rear a/c in the factory spec version has a very large draw due to the fan that draws air over the condensor on the roof, and a second smaller draw for the fan that pushes air around inside the cabin and over the evaporator coil. Other electrical are, by nature, very hard to diagnose long-distance... just ask our friend Tom... he's burned out a lot of headlight bulbs/capsules. If you are in a Northern Climate Zone, then I wouldn't expect the rear A/C to be in use in December... when your problem started. I would double check the engine to frame grounding straps; any starter cables, especially the main one to make sure they are snug; you may have to find a shop that can put an electrical analyzer on the Sprinter while you drive for a while. It is smowhat possible that with the engine swap you got a pulley placed in the wrong place or of the wrong size and the alternator is not running at RPMs sufficient to keep the battery up in all conditions (not likely, but possible). Certainly it seems your Alternator is too small with all of the possible accessories, how do you know that it IS a 90Amp model? On your base equipment it may say 90 Amps, but on your Optional Equipment it should ammend that and say a higher value (like on the Cooling Package menu of options added).   Thanks, KenB
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Replying to: kenbaker (Apr 25, 2007 1:09 pm) Again, thanks for the reply.
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Replying to: pdac (Apr 26, 2007 11:50 am) However it has been 1.5 years more and we have had no battery problems, we even had one more incident of someone leaving lights or radio on and running the battery down too low to start the Sprinter and still no signs yet of battery failure so far... knock on wood-grained formica-like laminate! When you run both A/C units, how much does your mileage drop? Mine drops nearly 2 MPG... Front air only does not seem to affect mileage that I can be certain of. Hope it works out OK soon. Alternators have been my one trouble spot on GMC Safari/Astro vans that I have owned (2 vans, 5 or 6 alternators over at least a 20 year span). KenB P.S. I forgot to say, when we got the Sprinter they told us that no extended warranties were available, then we mysteriously got one in the mail FOR FREE (already PAID in FULL)... and that was after we had got them down to only $30K (down from retail of $37K+). We have the rear air, but no extra heater |
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We bought our Sprinter new in June 2005 and had oil changes at 8,000 mi., 18,000 mi., and 28,000, mi. At the last oil change (28K) the service dept. said we should get the fuel filter replaced every 10,000 mi., when we change the oil. This costs $100. for part and labor for fuel filter, plus the cost of the oil change, which is $160. It was running fine on the original fuel filter for the first 28,000 mi. Now we're ready for another oil change at 38,000 mi. Do you experts believe it's necessary to replace the fuel filter every 10,000 mi.?? We live in Michigan and drive in cold winter weather part of the time. |
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Replying to: mellonhead (Apr 29, 2007 7:44 pm) 10K between fuel filters is just plain HIGHWAY ROBBERY unless you use the worst diesel available (and some of it is not so good where they don't sell much diesel). Read your manual, it is either 30K or 60K miles (don't have the info in front of me) unless you get a water warning, or bad behavior related to fuel... Certainly you are coming into summer and not as likely to have fuel/filter related problems. Most all of the fuel problems are worst in Winter when cold pushes the fuel towards its cloud point when waxes (parafins) start to congeal and the filter can start to clog (very cold). Water in the fuel is obviously worse as it will react with components of the fuel to form an emulsion. Good Premium diesel, bought at a dealer with plenty of turnover in diesel fuel stock is your best bet in keeping fuel quality problems under control. Diesel fuel additives are certainly available and effective when used as directed. Wintertime fuel additives can lower the cloud point, increase Cetane (more important in really cold conditions), reduce emulsions due to water, disperse waxy clumping, and improve life of diesel in vehicles that aren't driven as often. Other claims are certainly possible and may be more or less possible depending on the claim and science to back them. I would say follow the manual, or replace before Winter comes again, say before the temps fall below 20F in your area. You'll probably have around 50K+/- miles at that time, judging from your history of mileage so far? Thanks, KenB
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Replying to: mellonhead (Apr 29, 2007 7:44 pm) The dealer is just selling and using your fear as a basis for the unneeded work. Also the price you are paying for a simple oil / filter change is about twice what it should be. (assuming you are using Mobile 0-40). If not then 4 times too much. jmho /mike/
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